Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
Page 1 of 4 1 > Last»
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:28 PM
    REEM inducer blower problems
    I have a REEM RGRA 07EMAEB fyrnace.

    The blower motor comes on but doesn't suck enough to close the pressure switch. My exhaust and intakes are free of obstructions have proper termination, proper amount of elbows and my ptrap is working properly and draining.

    I changed the inducer motor and pressure switch which changed nothing. My heat exchanger is not cracked nor leaking. I am confused why won't my inducer close the pressure switch?
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #2

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:31 PM

    Water or other blockage in switch hose?
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #3

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:33 PM
    Nope hose from blower to switch is free of water and pin holes
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #4

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:40 PM

    Try this: remove the exhaust from the inducer if it's not glued and run unit BRIEFLY to see if it works. Do the same with intake or burner box cover off.
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #5

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:42 PM

    I have already tried running the unit with the exhaust removed and the intake removed separately and together with no success.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #6

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:48 PM

    Does the switch hose connect directly to the inducer housing? You mentioned that you replaced the inducer? Did you check the hose nipple on the housing for blockage?
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #7

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:51 PM

    Yes I verified the nipple on the inducer cassing and the nipple on the pressure switch all clear when checking my pressures I did so on the inducer cassing nipple then between the inducer and the pressure switch with an inline T I have a fluctuating -.5 to -.7'' instead of -1.3
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #8

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:57 PM

    Okay, garden-variety suggestions exhausted, time to start reaching. Is the inducer running at the proper speed? Check voltage to motor with inducer running-if you haven't already. Sounds like you have already given this more than the average college try.
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #9

    Dec 18, 2008, 10:08 PM

    Never thought of checking voltage... this motor has a 3 prong connector do I check between black and white?
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #10

    Dec 18, 2008, 10:10 PM

    Probably, the third line is probably a ground.
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #11

    Dec 18, 2008, 10:11 PM

    Actually the motor is grounded at the gas valve but ill check it out
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #12

    Dec 18, 2008, 10:16 PM

    What color is the third wire? It could be a two-speed motor. Perhaps it isn't running at the high-speed for some reason.
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #13

    Dec 18, 2008, 10:19 PM

    Black white and black
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #14

    Dec 18, 2008, 10:24 PM

    If motor has a label, look for rpm's-are two given?
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #15

    Dec 19, 2008, 07:30 PM
    actually 4 wires black, brown brown and white.
    White to black = 120.9 v
    brown to white = 5.7 v (both of them)

    So power is good

    No rating plate on blower but its only one speed I'm sure.

    I put high temp silicone around the heat exchager cover gasket between the plate and blower now I have -1" of succion so the furnace will usually turn on but as soon as I put the front pannel on, succion drops and flame goes out
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
    Senior Member
    		  
    #16

    Dec 19, 2008, 09:57 PM

    Check the amp draw as well. You can be getting proper voltage but your amp draw could be off.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #17

    Dec 19, 2008, 11:52 PM

    Black = line hot, white = neutral, brown/brown = capacitor. Okay, here's another reach. What are the chances that the pressure switch has been replaced at some point... and it's not the right one? Perhaps a call to your friendly neighborhood distributor could produce an OEM part number for your unit. They will want your model number.
    Reggie18's Avatar
    Reggie18 Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #18

    Dec 21, 2008, 01:29 PM
    Pressure switch is fine it has been replaced and was ordered using my distributor and the furnace model number... as for the amp check how manny amps should I be drawing? Written in blower?
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
    Senior Member
    		  
    #19

    Dec 21, 2008, 01:48 PM

    Yup. The name plate on the motor will list it's amp draw.
    GGman's Avatar
    GGman Posts: 24, Reputation: 2
    New Member
    		  
    #20

    Jan 7, 2009, 03:18 PM
    Reggie,
    I have a Rheem Classic 90 plus 75k BTU. I am having the same problem as you. I am about to pull the blower out to check for a cracked heat exchanger. Replaced both pressure switch and draft unit. Does any one know what bad connection to Cap would do to fan speed. I suspect that is the problem but do not have enough knowledge of electric motor to make such a claim. BTW I did replace the Cap as well.
Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions
 
Page 1 of 4 1 > Last»

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

The Power Venter (aka Heat Inducer and Draft Inducer) will not start on Goodman. [ 8 Answers ]

FURNACE: Made by: Goodman Model #: GMPN080-4 THE POWER VENTER (this is what the Goodman manual calls it but other websites refer to this as the Heat or Draft Inducer): Made by: FASCO Industries 70219565 Type: U218 Volts: 115 RPM3400 Customer Part #: B2833001S

Inducer Motor Problems [ 6 Answers ]

I have a Goodman Gas Furnace installed in 1997 and have been experiencing the following problems: The usual run for the furnace has been inducer motor on, ignition (with flames), and then the blower motor comes on. I have been having the inducer motor come on, run for about three minutes,...

Blower problems [ 6 Answers ]

My heat pump has intermittent problem. In the ac mode every once in a while the blower motor fails to come on. When this happens I turn the switch to heat and turn the thermostat all the way up the blower comes on. I then turn it back to cool turn the thermostat down and it stays on and cycles...

Darft Inducer Blower - Heil DC90 [ 3 Answers ]

My gas furnace worked fine until a day or so ago. Everything works OK during furnace startup, but the draft inducer motor does not turn off until the call for heat is over. The draft inducer motor shuts down the same time as the burners shut down. Is this normal? Isn't the inducer motor suppose...

Inducer starts, but blower/furnace never fire [ 6 Answers ]

My furnace suddenly stopped working today. The thermostat triggers properly, and the inducer fan starts running, but furnace never fires and the blower doesn't come on. If I turn the blower on manually at the thermostat, it runs fine. The furnace is an older Payne/Carrier natural gas/forced air...

View more questions Search