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    jtatz's Avatar
    jtatz Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jul 5, 2006, 08:24 PM
    Suspended Ceiling / Recessed lighting
    I have a "problem" suspended ceiling. I bought a house almost a year ago, and I knew that at some point the suspended ceiling in the basement would become a frustratiion.

    The finished room is about 10x21 feet. It is a USG ceiling with 2x4 USG ceiling tiles. The issue is that the ceiling is hung VERY close to the floor joists. Maybe within about 2 inches. I'm sure the intention was to minimize headroom being lost in the room - although from floor to tile there is still 7' of room. The tiles are very difficult to move/remove because of the lack of clearance. It also appears that the installer was careless when the ceiling was wired to suspend it. Many of the wires block the tiles from being moved without being mutilated (unless I detach or rebend the wires)

    I've thought about replacing the ceiling, or rehanging it - but realize that the effort probably isn't worth it. I want 2x2 tiles, but I'd be looking at 300-400 for tiles alone. (not worth it, when the 2x4 style I have is $16 a carton rather than $90-130 for the same sq feet for 2x2)

    Does anyone have any tips on how to make it easier to manage? I want to install recessed lighting but I think it would be very hard to get the tiles in place, and get the light cans to sit properly on the frame - with so little room to work with. I've thought about mounting the cans in the joists, but I'm not sure if that would work.

    Thanks in advance!
    shunned's Avatar
    shunned Posts: 268, Reputation: 20
    Full Member
     
    #2

    Jul 6, 2006, 01:01 AM
    How about tearing it down and drywalling it?
    jtatz's Avatar
    jtatz Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Jul 6, 2006, 05:12 AM
    Hi Shunned, thanks for responding.

    I've been thinking about that. I'm reluctant because then I'd lose access to the ceiling - but on the finished side of the ceiling, there is actually very little in the way of plumbing. Some electrical, some cat5/coax that I've run and ductwork - but not much else is up there.

    Any other recommendations?
    dulac63dulac's Avatar
    dulac63dulac Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jun 28, 2009, 02:37 PM
    have you thought of taking a sawzall and cutting 1 or 2 inches off the studds to make room. You can always take a 1X3 or 1X4 and nail them on both sides of the stud to keep the strength

    This may be not most professional way , but will get the job done for a few lights , unless you are planning to install a jacuzzi on the floor above.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #5

    Jun 28, 2009, 04:32 PM

    You should leave those floor joists (studs) alone. It is against code to notch or remove a thickness of a joist. Also, you can't hang a can light in a drop in ceiling tile, they can't hold the weight. Your choices are limitless because as Shunned ponts out you could tear the whole thing out. I did what your previous owner did but planned my channels so that some channels lined up perfectly for a drop in 2x4 light tray. Look at the bright side, new drywall will give you 2" more height and great lighting options.
    AFAB1's Avatar
    AFAB1 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    Feb 16, 2010, 10:22 AM
    Never cut Floor Joists! Dangerous and not to code. Also keep in mind that most municipalities require a min of 7' headroom.

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