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    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 26, 2008, 09:22 AM
    1991 Honda Accord
    Here is my problem as I mention before. Shifting problems when going from 3rd to 4th in a Automatic it seems to jerk and then when I'm coming to a stop it pulls/jerks when I get to 20mph. What do you think the problem might be? :mad::(
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Nov 26, 2008, 10:17 AM

    Change transmission fluid, using Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 26, 2008, 10:37 AM

    Thanks a bunch Texas Grease Monkey.. Are you online everyday? I'm going to Change the Tranny Fluid and then I'll keep my fingers crossed. From Charlene
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Nov 26, 2008, 10:42 AM

    Yes.

    I helped a friend change the transmission fluid and filter in a 1995 F-150 about two months ago. It had 185,000 miles on it and was not well maintained. You could barely even feel the transmission shift, prior to working on it. After dropping and cleaning the pan, draining the torque converter, installing a new filter, and refilling with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, it shifted like a new truck. My buddy couldn't believe the difference.

    Hopefully, you'll experience the same results. Up and downshifts are sooo much better with synthetic ATF.

    It's best to drain all of the old fluid. This link should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post552241
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Nov 26, 2008, 10:46 AM

    Cool I sure hope this works out for me. I've already changed the Shifting Solenoid thinking this might be the problem and then I just changed the VSS thinking that might be the problem but no luck.. Okay now do you know where the tranny plug is on this? I am a female that's why so many questions...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Nov 26, 2008, 10:54 AM

    Should be on the passenger's side of the transaxle. Likely a 3/8" plug. Be sure to change the fluid, after the car reaches normal operating temperature. This provides a faster and more complete drain, where dirt doesn't adhere to the sides of the transmission. After refilling, be sure to run the gear shift selector through each gear, pausing five seconds each time. Check final fluid level, when the transmission is hot and in Park. Remove transmission dip stick, prior to removing the drain plug.

    Once you solve this problem and determine the car is a "keeper," start using Mobil 1 5W-30 in the engine. This is particularly important for single women, to prevent major engine/transmission problems.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:01 AM

    I'm going to give it a shot on Friday since I have the day off. Oh by the way does the mileage matter on this vehicle? It has 246,000, but we just put another tranny in it that has 100,000 on it. When we got the car the tranny was shot, so we got a used tranny from a friend and had it installed. So I'm going to stop at Wal-Mart on my way home from work today and get the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Oh yeah by the way Happy Thanksgiving. Any other advice is always welcome.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:06 AM


    Mileage should not be an issue.

    Be sure to change all of the brake fluid--very important. Here are some recommended preventive maintenance items:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #9

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:12 AM
    Find out if your transmission pan has a screen inside that needs cleaning.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:19 AM

    If it has a screen inside of it does it need to come out? If so this means dealing with the tranny.. I hope not then it turns into $$$. I hope by just changing the fluid and the brake fluid will do the job.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #11

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:32 AM

    Just remove the drain plug (3/8" ratchet) and drain the fluid. Tighten drain plug to 36 lb-ft. Skip cleaning the screen.

    Only change the brake fluid, if you know how to properly bleed brakes. It's a very important item to do--I just don't want you doing it, unless you have help.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:41 AM

    You got it, I know how to bleed brakes, I've done those before and actually we haven't done anything with the brakes on this car since we got it. This car did sit for a while too. What is the purpose of bleeding the brakes?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #13

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:45 AM

    Eliminate moisture, air, prevent vapor lock, and ensure brakes work really well. It also replaces the lubricity of the fluid, insuring the calipers and wheel cylinders fuction properly and last a long time.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #14

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:55 AM

    When you remove the transmission drain plug, you will only drain half the fluid. The other half will remain in the torque converter.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:56 AM

    WOW all that huh... Okay I will let you know the outcome of the job. Maybe I'll email you on Friday when all is done. Not unless I have something else to ask you today.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Nov 26, 2008, 11:57 AM

    So only half of the fluid will come out then and the rest will stay in the torque converter or do I need to stop it with something?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #17

    Nov 26, 2008, 12:06 PM

    It should be an easy job. If you want to change all of the fluid, read the link I gave you earlier. Otherwise, change it now and change it again later.
    cacevedo's Avatar
    cacevedo Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Nov 26, 2008, 12:09 PM

    I didn't get it, not all of the fluid will come out? The fluid remaining in the tranny will be what's in the torque? So the link says to clean out tranny pan with brake cleaner and so on. Will do... I'm signed on all day just in case you need to let me know something else.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #19

    Nov 26, 2008, 12:37 PM

    Yes, the remaining fluid will be in the torque converter.

    I don't think your transmission has a pan. Therefore, remove the drain plug and drain as much fluid as possible. Then, replace the drain plug and add 2.5 quarts (initial fill) through the fill tube. Disconnect the transmission return line from the bottom of the radiator, start the engine and pump out an additional 3.9 quarts of fluid. For each quart pumped out, add a quart to the fill tube.

    Initial fill: 2.5 quarts
    Total fill: 6.4 quarts

    As you can see, removing the drain plug will only remove 2.5 quarts of old fluid--3.9 quarts of dirty fluid will remain in the torque converter and transmission lines.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #20

    Nov 26, 2008, 12:54 PM

    One final thought. Remove the negative battery cable overnight. This will reset the ECM and force the computer to relearn all of the proper shift points for how you drive. Do this after you change the transmission fluid.

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