[Indiana_Dad_2_5]

Hey all, I'm new to the forum and have a question regarding my water pressure.

I removed my gas and wired in and installed a new electric 50 gallon water heater in 2005. I have good cold water pressure at all of my downstairs faucets,water pressure has never been great upstairs, but I have virtually no hot water pressure at any of my faucets.

My water heater was installed September 2005, so I can't imagine that it is sediment from hard water already, but if it is, is there a way that I can fix this issue. If it is not a sediment problem then any ideas on what it could be?

Any troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated. I am a robotics tech by trade and definitely out of my comfort zone with residential plumbing!

[massplumber2008]

Hey Indiana...

I'm wondering if it is possible that when the heater was installed the plumber/installer soldered a fitting directly onto the cold water nipple? If so, possible that the dip tube got melted and is reducing volume of water in to the heater..?

Also wonder here if the cold water inlet shutoff is defective? Was the shutoff replaced when new heater was installed?

Both of these could reduce volume of cold water into heater which of course would result in reduced hot water volume...

Let us know what you think/know here...

MARK

[Indiana_Dad_2_5]

Thank God! I read some of your posts prior to asking this question and hoped that I could get your opinion as you seem to be very knowledgeable and very helpful.

Now, in answer to your query, no there was no soldering that took place and there was nothing replaced except the water heater itself.

The old water heater was removed, gas line was capped off and the electric heater was wired and plumbed in to the existing pipeage.

I have lost both hot/cold pressure before in sink strainers due to build up, but have never lost just hot pressure before in all faucets.

I have one cold water line with a shutoff valve going into the water heater and one hot water line coming out. There is no spill back/ pressure relief or any other valvage.

[ballengerb1]

How long has the hot pressure been bad, if since day one we need to look at how it was installed. Also, day 1 or day 100 debris can break loose in the heater and stick it the first hot faucet that was turned on. Have you removed the hot valve or cartridge to check for debris, lets start there.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Indiana... thanks for nice words... :)

Bob's right... start at removal of hot stem(s)/cartridges if possible.. see if debris is clogging the lines and if so then FLUSH the lines by putting rag over the valve body when stem removed and PULSE the water to clear line of STUFF!

Otherwise, if this started just after the water heater was installed then I'm going to bet that the shutoff that is just before the cold water enters the water heater is bad/defective and should be replaced with a new FULL-PORT BALL VALVE of the correct size.

Full-port means that the inside diameter of the ball valve is the same size as the inside pipe diameter and is not choked down as some ball valves are.

If you want to replace the old valve, shut the power OFF to heater, shut the water main off, drain water from system, drain water in water heater to just below the top of heater, cut old valve out and then see if you can purchase a SHARKBITE TYPE full-port ball valve and a sharkbite type coupling. These fittings do not require any soldering and simply PUSH on pipe to make solid connection! Then re-fill water heater, purge air from water lines, check that all aerators are not clogged and then turn power ON. You may also need to purchase a small piece of copper tubing (TYPE L) if available.

Keep us posted.

Thanks...


MARK

[Indiana_Dad_2_5]

Will do fellas and thanks for all the help. Luckily, or unluckily to some I guess, I have returned to work for a few days so I will have to fix the water pressure, install a new thermostat and get back to the current bedroom remodeling project on my next days off!

Much more peaceful here at work! Thanks again.