[TxGreaseMonkey]

1. Disconnect battery cables (negative first).

2. Disconnect MAF Sensor connector.

3. Remove air filter.

4. Disconnect hoses (3) going to air intake.

5. Remove air intake.

6. Remove throttle cover (2 Christmas tree pins).

7. Remove both 8 mm bolts securing throttle bracket to throttle body.

8. Remove throttle spring.

9. Unhook electrical wire bundle from throttle body stud.

10. Remove Emission Separator “L” from throttle body.

11. Remove Emission Separator tube from PCV Valve.

12. Here's the trick: Remove PCV Valve, using a 7/8” deep socket and a 12” extension bar, by rotating it 180 degrees counter-clockwise.

13. Install new PCV Valve (Motorcraft EV-243), by rotating it 180 degrees clockwise to fully seat it, after coating O-ring with clean engine oil.

14. Attach new Emission Separator (Motorcraft KCV-116) and button everything up.

The local Ford dealer wanted $350 to replace the PCV Valve—3 hours of labor to remove the upper intake manifold, fuel rail, and lower intake manifold, plus parts. Many people do it that way. This is a much simpler, faster (1 hour), and cheaper procedure (no need to replace UIM/LIM gaskets). I know the above procedure works, since I have used it. Changing the PCV Valve becomes a big deal on Duratec engines, since it's located under the fuel injection system--deep inside the "V" of the engine. Access is further obstructed by a radiator hose and a large square-wire bundle.

Only use Motorcraft EV-243 or AutoZone's PCV1001 PCV valves, since none of the others listed online with various auto parts stores will work. Likewise, only use the Motorcraft KCV-116 Emission Separator. Don't make the mistake and buy the Motorcraft KCV-117 Emission Separator, even though the Motorcraft online catalog lists it as the correct one--it clearly won't work. Bottom Line: Buy the parts first, in order to gain insight on how everything works.