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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #81

    May 4, 2009, 07:04 PM

    Please start a new thread!

    Test all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    Even though you replaced fuses, this will test for "power through the fuse."

    Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?
    taylor ss's Avatar
    taylor ss Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #82

    Oct 8, 2009, 03:54 PM

    94 honda civic fuel pump doesn't come on when you turn on the key
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #83

    Oct 8, 2009, 04:42 PM

    This should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523
    madvladcivic's Avatar
    madvladcivic Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #84

    Jul 21, 2010, 07:55 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Hello TXGM,

    I have read (and hard-copied) many of your posts re automotive
    Repair/troubleshoot procedures. I have a question re the
    Original distributors in the 90s Honda Civics.

    I have a 96 Honda Civic DX w/ original dizzy and 81K mi.
    From what I can gather, these dizzys tend to have issues
    Beginning at anywhere from 90K to 120K mi.

    Question: Is the dizzy currently available from the Honda
    Dealer (the TEC model 30100-P2E-A02) subject to the same
    Problems as the original dizzy? Has its design been
    Improved over the last decade+? Would a non-Honda aftrmarket
    Part be better?

    Thanks.

    MVC
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #85

    Jul 21, 2010, 08:06 AM

    madvladcivic, it's still the same storry. They suffer from the same limitations; i.e. lack of splash lubrication (sealed bearings only last so long) and intense heat that fries the ICM and coil. Again, I would only buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil. Everything else is suspect and will let you down at an inopportune time.
    madvladcivic's Avatar
    madvladcivic Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #86

    Jul 21, 2010, 08:17 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    madvladcivic, it's still the same storry. They suffer from the same limitations; i.e., lack of splash lubrication (sealed bearings only last so long) and intense heat that fries the ICM and coil. Again, I would only buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil. Everything else is suspect and will let you down at an inopportune time.
    Hello TXGM,

    Thank you for the very speedy reply!

    The reason I asked is because a poster at HondaHookup described
    An issue he had w/ his dizzy. In a 96 Civic DX no less. His original
    Dizzy fried at 110K mi and he bought a "new" dizzy at a salvage yard.
    It fried in a week. Now, he has installed an aftermarket part.
    I am aware of the dizzy issues esp wrt/ the ICM and coil. His
    Problem was new to me: the heat-induced compromise of the
    Plastic encasement of the tdc/cyp/ckp sensor. This happened in
    BOTH the aforementioned Honda dizzys.

    Honda replaced my rotor, dizzy cap, plugs and wires in Nov '09
    Under an extended emission warranty recall. I am simply
    Preparing for the inevitable.

    Basically, the compromise of the tdc/cyp/ckp sensor casing
    Renders the dizzy housing unusable. Even if the ICM and coil
    Are still functional.

    Thank you.

    MVC
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #87

    Jul 21, 2010, 08:22 AM

    Yes, melted internal sensors happen, just not that frequently.
    taicze's Avatar
    taicze Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #88

    Jul 22, 2012, 12:52 PM
    1993 Civic DX Won't Start
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #89

    Jul 22, 2012, 01:15 PM
    Does the CEL stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?
    Rfrydz's Avatar
    Rfrydz Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #90

    Jun 19, 2013, 02:18 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Answer these 3 basic diagnostic questions for me:

    1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?.

    2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear (or feel) the main relay "click"?,

    3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

    Your answer to each question above:

    1.Yes .. But sometimes light won't go off

    2.normally when it starts id hear the relay click but does click when it won't start.

    3.
    Not sure
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #91

    Jun 7, 2021, 03:29 PM
    The remanufactured ECM I installed 15 years ago has now failed. Since it came with a lifetime warranty from O’Reilly Auto Parts, I installed another remanufactured ECM. The K-Test identified the ECM as the problem. The 1993 Civic is back on the road earning its keep.

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