[CRX Vtech]

Yes

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It's probably not the igniter or coil, then.

Have you taken a test light or multimeter and checked all under-dash and under-hood fuses?

[CRX Vtech]

All the fuses are OK haven't had a light tester or multi meter on it yet. What should it read?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Each fuse has two test points on top. If you have a multimeter, turn the ignition ON, set your meter to DCV, and touch a lead to each test point. You will probably read around 12.5 volts. You are mainly interested in current flowing. Use a multimeter or test light to test under-dash fuses, so as not to replace them in the wrong slot. You're working in a dark and cramped location.

Assuming all fuses check out OK, check your ECM (computer) to see if any codes were thrown. Both of these are crucial steps.

Since you have spark and fuel, something unusual is going on here.

[CRX Vtech]

How do I check the codes? My mates on his way round with a tester.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You need to find the Service Check Connector, which should be located about 3 cm from the end of the dash, on the passenger's side. It's a 2P connector, which you jump with a paper clip, and is up under the edge of the dash. The Data Link Connector (3P) and the Service Check Connector (2P) are both housed in a protective rubber mount. Carefully, pry the Service Check Connector free.

Jump the connector, turn the ignition ON, and count the number of long and short flashes, if any, of the Check Engine Light.

See also:

Sticky: Reading error codes on 92-95 Civics (OBD-I Hondas)

[CRX Vtech]

Will this work on my honda? Mine is not the del-sol mine is the mk2 cheese wedge shape

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I think it should work on "cheese-wedge shaped Civics."

[CRX Vtech]

OK I will go and see what happens
How long should this job take?

HA HA that's the easiest way to describe them lol

[TxGreaseMonkey]

A couple minutes.

[CRX Vtech]

OK well if I'm not back in a few minutes I've blown myself up or its started and I've driven off in excitement.

[latreche34]

I did this test on my CIVIC DX 1993 and gives a steady CEL, what does that mean? I ordered a used ECU box from eBay though for $50.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

latreche34, the CEL staying on means you have a problem with the main relay, ignition switch, ECM, or a fuse. Your Civic won't start, as long as it stays on.

[latreche34]

latreche34, the CEL staying on means you have a problem with the main relay, ignition switch, ECM, or a fuse. Your Civic won't start, as long as it stays on.

This happens only when I jump the OEM pins, otherwise I have no CEL at normal operation, it comes on and goes off, a brand new main relay have been already installed before I do the reading codes procedure, all fuses are good as well as the ign switch, I'll post again when I get the ECU in the mail.

[CRX Vtech]

Hi txgreasemonkey its me again. I didn't blow myself up or drive away. Just to let you know. I had someone come out with a fault finder, it cost me £40 to plug it in say there was nothing wrong with it and start it 1st time, its not fair. Anyway the next day it did the same thing to me and I found out all it was, was the rotor arm in the dizzy cap wasn't tight and wasn't spinning. But now it won't rev over 35000revs. It is flashing error code 4 what do I need to get it running properly? Please help because you helped a lot last time cheers.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Glad to hear you're still alive. Code 4 indicates a problem with the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the 8P connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP sensor. Measure resistance between sensor terminals B and F. Check for 350 to 700 ohms. If you don't get readings within these parameters, replace the distributor housing. Here's how to locate terminals B and F:

ABCD
EFGH

View connector's male pins, with the latch on top.


Honda distributors are notorious for having to be replaced around 150,000 kilometers. Normally, the sealed bearings wears out and it sounds like a thrashing machine. When this happens, many of the inside sensors can be destroyed. If you end up having to replace the distributor, buy a new housing from Honda for around $125 and use the ICM and coil from your old unit. I had to do this on my 1993 Civic DX 4 years ago--no big deal.

[latreche34]

Hi txgreasemonkey , I'm the guy with CIVIC DX 1993, I got the ECU today I replaced it, no changes the same thing crank won't start, I checked also the voltage on the MAP sensor and it's 4.99V, just to remind you I have spark, gas, checked most of the connectors voltage according to Hayens repair manual and all tests pass, note that it's been checked by two professional mechanics and they just gave up and I will do so soon, but before that I'm going to check the last two sensors nock and crankshaft positioning sensors, can you tel me where they are located exactly? They are not mentioned in hayens manual.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor and TDC Sensor are inside the distributor and totally inaccessible. Perform tests on outside 8P connector. If they test bad, best bet is to buy a new distributor housing from Honda ($125) and reuse your igniter and coil. Don't give up and get rid of your Civic. This crisis will pass and you will learn a lot from it. Remember, these cars will run 350,000 miles, if you take care of them.

CKP Test (Crankshaft Position), Code 4:
Test for 350-700 ohms on the 8P distributor connector between sensor terminals B and F.

TDC Test (Top Dead Center), Code 8:
Test for 350-700 ohms on the 8P distributor connector between sensor terminals C and G.

CYP Test (Cylinder Position), Code 9:
Test for 350-700 ohms on the 8P distributor connector between sensor terminals D and H.

View of 8P male connector, with clasp ([]) on top:

[]
ABCD
EFGH

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Can you hear your fuel pump run?

[latreche34]

Can you hear your fuel pump run?

Yes it runs for few seconds after turning on the ignition key, I demonstrated that by removing the fuel rail bolt and I saw the fuel coming out of the rail with pressure. I didn't mesure it though.