[Kirk Martin]

Our Whirlpool dryer has a cycle for intermittent dry or fluff cycle... it seems that it runs fine, then when it shuts down at the intermittent of fluff cycle it will not turn back on again, any thoughts?

Kirk

[labman]

I would check the wiring between the timer and the relay that starts the dryer. Easiest way is with a voltage detector.

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

[applguy]

I may be able to shed some light on this issue, but not without a model number. It is usually located on a sticker or tag behind the dryer door. When you say "intermittent cycle" are you referring to a portion at the end of the cycle that is intended to stop wrinkles from setting? Also, to make sure I understand, the dryer runs the entire cycle fine, the clothes are dry, etc, but when it reaches the wrinkle prevent portion, the dryer motor will not turn back on, and the timer simply advances to the next "off"? Thanks.

[Kirk Martin]

This is a Whirlpool.
Model # is LGL8858EQ0
Serial Number is MG2704475

You are correct, when I say intermittent, it is the end of the cycle that is meant to fluff the clothes so they don't wrinkle. Also, some of the clothes are not "completely dry" we usually use the permanent press cycle so the time for full dry is less.

Another issue that might be related:
About 2 months ago, it sounded like there was a GRRR sound when it first starts. The drywe would run about 15 minutes then turn off, and it seemed to take a while (for whatever reason - cool down maybe) and we could start it back up again... we started noticing a burning smell in the element located behind the push button start and I have replaced that.

Everything worked fine until this recent stopping of the cycle at the Fluff Wrinkle free part of the cycle.

[applguy]

If you have a volt-ohm meter, you can test the timer contacts for proper function while in the wrinkle guard portion of the cycle. The contacts are as follows:

GY-WB - OPEN
K-BU-Y - DOESN'T MATTER
BK-BU - CLOSED
BK-R - OPEN
T-BY - CLOSED INTERMITTENTLY
T-W - OPEN

All open/closed contacts should be tested with the dryer unplugged and the wires on those terminals disconnected. The T-BY contact must be tested with all wires connected and dryer running. Make sure not to touch anything during this test due to shock hazard. When the contacts are closed, your meter should see 0 volts. When the contacts open, your meter should read 120 volts. I use alligator clips to hold my meter leads in place and watch the meter as the timer advances. Another check is the guard/signal switch. If the switch is set for wrinkle guard, but those switch contacts are bad, the dryer will stop. Those contacts have a Black/Yellow wire and a White wire. Disconnect them and check the switch for continuity when properly set. If you feel that you are not qualified to make these checks, then by all means, don't. Your safety isn't worth a diagnostic rate. Let me know how it all turns out.