Check out some similar questions!

westnlas · Jun 28, 2008, 11:17 PM

Hey, give Don a break here. He didn't realize the reddish orange wire was a bare copper ground wire. I didn't see that at first either. If you don't pick that up, it really is confusing.

donf · Jun 29, 2008, 08:00 AM

I did pick that up, I wanted confirmation that that is what they are doing. Thank you very much.

donf · Jun 29, 2008, 03:36 PM

She,

I sent in this posting this morning but I have no idea where it went to.

What I'd like you to do is replace the existing outlet with a large junction box.

Inside that box, put your supply voltage <Black & White from the hot tub>, are you sure that you want your fan on constantly? If so, we will set up a pig tail or two.

Pigtail #1 - Black to Black of the fan, White to White. Connect one black to to SW #1. Connect a Red to the black and connect that to SW #2. From Switch #1 , Outbound (Black) to Receptacle set #1 at the pond.

Connect a Red to the pigtail to SW #2. Outbound Red to to Receptacle Set
# 2.

You need to use #10/3 from the switches to the outdoor outlets. To maintain 20 amps across 70 ft.

At the outdoor receptacles, connect one #12 jumper from the Return side of Receptacle #2. Jumper to Receptacle set #1. Using the White #10, run your line back to the White in the Junction box.

To set the outlets to constant on, connect a Black wire from the Hot Tub black pigtail. Then connect the White return to the White in the junction box.

Everything should now be working as laid out by you.

sheahasu · Jun 29, 2008, 05:04 PM

Don, the outlet is inside my house, so a junction box wouldn't work too well. I don't have a hot tub. And the fan has it's own switch, so as long as I have the wires pigtailed to my incoming power, it works fine. Basically, I have a single outlet inside. I want to connect a double, single pole switch to the outlet inside (so I don't have to go outside in nasty weather to turn things off) and have it so that each switch controls its own outlet outside. The only outlet I want constant on is the inside one. So far the fan and inside outlet and one of the outside outlets works just fine. It's just the second outlet that doesn't want to cooperate. I'm using 12/3 to run to the outside outlets. I've already stripped it back at each end, so I can't take it back, and I can't afford another $80+ for more. I just can't seem to figure out why the second outlet won't work (it's the red, btw).

HK, I tried switching the black jumper--no luck.

One question I've asked before but hadn't had answered... on the switch, does the metal tab need to be intact or broken off? I'm wondering if that is the issue.

donf · Jun 29, 2008, 05:29 PM

I understand where your outlet is. I want you to replace the existing outlet box with a junction box, this will allow you to centralize all of the major pigtails.

You have one set of feed wires that you stated came from where a hot tub was, correct?

You want two switches inside, they are to feed 2 sets of receptacles some 70 ft. from the house, correct?

You also want you fan, which is connected by a switched line already, correct?

Finally you want two outlets that are adjacent to the two switches to be constantly hot, correct?

The NEC requires that you use UF cable (direct bury) between the house and the pond outlets.

I'm stating, that you are required to put 10/3 between the home and the pond. Especially if you need to drive 20 amps to those two outlet sets at the pond. 12/2 conductors are above the 3.2% threshold mandated by the NEC code.

If you need me to, I can draw my plan out for you, but it looks like enough art work has already been completed.

hkstroud · Jun 29, 2008, 06:48 PM

So you moved the black wire from the outlet from the top screw to the bottom screw. That did not make the GFI outlet that is connected to the red wire work, correct?

That leaves only two possibilities. One, that the switch is bad which is not likely. Two, the GFI is bad or not wired correctly.
Move the black jumper wire back to the top input screw. Move the red wire going to the GFI from the bottom screw on the switch to the top screw. If the GFI outlet works, the bottom half of the switch is bad. If the GFI doesn't work it is either faulty of not wired correctly. The hot (red wire) and the neutral should be connected to the LINE terminals. In electric speak LINE means incoming line or incoming power. LOAD means the connection point where the load or power consuming device is connected. That would be the next outlet if you had one. There are two sets of LOAD terminals on a GFI outlet. One is for making the next outlet GFI protected. The other is for an unprotected outlet or device.
Please check you wiring connections. If all connections look good and the GFI is reset (the GFI will not reset is there is no power to it) switch the two GFI outlets. Make sure the GFI currently on the red is wired the same way as the one on the black is currently wired. If the GFI currently on the red does not work and the GFI currently on the black continues to work after you have switched them the GFI is bad. Let me know results.

Originally Posted by sheahasu

One question I've asked before but hadn't had answered...on the switch, does the metal tab need to be intact or broken off? I'm wondering if that is the issue.

That was the question I was trying to answer. If the tab is intact you should have to provide power to only one screw. If the tab has been removed you would have to provide power to each screw.

hkstroud · Jun 29, 2008, 06:58 PM

Please confirm that the metal tab to which you refer is on the input side of the switch.

sheahasu · Jun 30, 2008, 05:38 AM

HK, yes the tab is on the input side. I'm thinking it has to be the wiring, not the switch or outlet. I tried replacing the GFI with a regular outlet just to see, and it didn't work either. I'll give your suggestions a try. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

hkstroud · Jun 30, 2008, 04:29 PM

How many screws are on the out put side of the switch?

sheahasu · Jun 30, 2008, 05:56 PM

There are 2 hot, 2 common, and 1 ground

sheahasu · Jun 30, 2008, 06:51 PM

IT WORKS!! :) As best I can figure, the original switch was indeed bad on the bottom half. In the process of switching wire combinations, when I switched switches (grin) I never set the red and neutral on the second outlet back to LINE. It may also have been the jumper... I don't know if I ever tried it on bottom before. Whichever, or both, it now works! Hallelujah! I developed tendinitis 5 yrs ago doing this because I had to keep screwing and unscrewing things. It's been rearing it's ugly head again every time I move wires. I'm so glad to have it figured out finally. Now I can get down to the business of burying cable and setting up the permanent connections. Then I can finally quit having an extension cord running through my backyard! Yee haw!

Thanks, everyone for you great help and patience. I couldn't have done it without you (well, maybe only with an emergency room visit or two in the process). I'll go on and rate you all as soon as I finish this post. I am so excited to be able to finally finish this project. Thank you all again so much.