[lewnetunes]

To stop the dryer we often open the door. When I open the door the drum stops turning. The heating element remains on. If I turn the timer to off the heating elelment will go off. If I set the timer to on the heating element starts immediately before pushing the button to start the drum. What is broken? The vent is clear. Some tell me the motor is bad because the switch that operates the heating element is stuck on (or close). How do I test for this? Thanks. This is a Kenmore Series 80.

[applguy]

You do have a bad motor. The centrifugal switch on the motor does two things: 1... Removes power from the start winding once the motor is running, and 2... Allows the second line of voltage from the cord to get to the heater. Usually the correct way to repair this is to replace the motor. But... In some instances, I have been known to remove and open the motor switch and use emery cloth or very very fine sandpaper to clean the contacts that are stuck. The whole point of the system, if you care to know, is to only allow power to the heater if the motor is running. This is all fine and dandy, but if the contact is stuck (welded), the whole purpose is defeated. It's somewhat easy to do, so if you're mechanically able and inclined to try, I may be able to assist.

[lewnetunes]

Thanks Applyguy. Everything I have read has lead me to check everything else. Nothing I read was quite the same. I did talk to a local parts supply house when I purchased the thermal fuse and the guy said it sounded like a bad motor. I wanted to make sure I could confirm his findings. I am game if you think you can help me. Sorry it has taken so long to respond. Let me know what I need to do. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but if you think it is not that difficult I would give it a try before I buy another motor. Thanks.

[applguy]

First, you must unplug the dryer or turn off the breaker, and then you must gain access to the area under the drum. This is always done from the front. Some units have a split front panel where the lower 12 inch (or so) panel tilts down for access, while others require you to remove the entire front panel. If yours has the lower access panel, release the retainers a few inches in from both sides at the top of the panel and it will pivot down. If yours is the full front model, I can describe how to remove it. The motor is in the right rear corner, and the motor switch is right on the front of the motor. You may find it easier to remove the belt from the idler pulley, then lift the idler from the floor pan of the dryer. Make sure to note belt orientation to ease reassembly. The motor switch is attached by 2 phillips screws. Draw a diagram and note the wire colors and locations before disassembly. Once the wires are removed, remove the two screws and remove the switch. The two screws that attach the switch are also the same two screws that hold the switch body together. Very carefully, and slowly, separate the two halves, noting how the switch feels when you push on the white actuator. Hopefully, the switch body will separate leaving all the components in one side. Then you should see the welded contact. Break it apart and use very fine sandpaper or emery cloth to clean and re-install the contacts. If the contacts are burned too badly, or something breaks, it may be unrepairable. I now seem to remember that you may be able to get a new switch by itself. If you would like me to investigate this, and supply a part number if available, get me a model number of the data plate inside the dryer door. If you have any other questions, please let me know. Good luck.

[lewnetunes]

I have just picked up the instructions. I have had the drum out and I see the motor. I will follow your instructions and let you know. Will work on it over the weekend. Thanks.

[lewnetunes]

Followed instructions. Points not welded. I did sand all sides of all points. Put switch back on motor. To test I turned timer to middle of a cycle but did not turn dryer on and heating element came on right away.
Do you think you can supply me with the part number of the switch?

Kenmore Series 80 two years old
Model No. 110.64852-400
Ser. No. MR2204133
Type DWSR-ELE-2406028-CV54

Thanks for all your help.

[applguy]

Holy moly----I just re-read all of this, and I forgot to have you check the heater itself. If the motor switch is OK, then the heater is probably touching a metal part, grounding it, thus allowing it to remain on as long as the timer is in a non-off setting. One main point for the motor switch is to make sure the heater doesn't work if the motor isn't running, but the only thing they can't control is a shorted heater. Pull the heater, and I bet it'll be broken and/or touching something it's not supposed to be. I apologize for creating extra work for you.

[lewnetunes]

That's okay! I learned I was able to take the switch off the motor, take it apart and put it back together along with the drum and the belt and it still works! I will check heating elelment and get back to you. Thanks for all of your very detailed responses.

Good News! Good News!

I took the heating element off and on close inspection found nothing wrong. However, knowing my motor switch was not bad I looked again and now even closer. I found a clasp off a woman's blouse lodged, almost imperceptibly, between one of the coils and the bracket that supported the coils. It appears, while drying, a blouse was pushed against the heating element inlet causing the clasp to hook around one of the holes that lets the heat in. Then something crashes on top of the blouse sending it one way while separating the hook from the blouse sending the clasp down the shaft only to be lodged in one of the coils and laying barely on top a metal braket connected to the housing holding the heating coil. Good work Applyguy. Now my wife thinks I am a hero. Excuse me whilst I collect my reward. :D

[applguy]

Right on, dude. Congrats.