[natalieblueeyes]

We think the drain pipe in the wall is too high for our small pedestal sink.

The pop-up drain will not open completely because the bottom of the "tail piece" or whatever it is called hits the top of the drain pipe.

Our pedestal sink base is not completely open in the back -- there is a 2" piece across right where the p-trap connected to the drain pipe should enter the base.

The drain pipe is 20" off the floor. It would be just fine if is was at 18".

Is there anything we can do other than move the drain pipe down 2" in the wall?

Thanks.
Natalie

[hkstroud]

Do you mean that the rod that you push down or pull up to open or close the drain hits the piping?

[natalieblueeyes]

Yes, the rod that you push up and down to open the pop-up drain.

[natalieblueeyes]

That rod hits the drain pipe (waste pipe) coming out of the wall. The drain pipe prevents the rod from going all the way down.

[hkstroud]

The rod should have a metal strap attached to it via a bolt. That strap should be attached to a horzontal rod that works the pop up. Adjust by losing bolt and sliding up the rod or cut off part of the strap and use another hole. If necessary you can cut off an inch or so of the rod. You may be able to twist the part that the horzontal rod goes into around to one side so that the rod does not hit the pipe. If you assembly is not set up this way, post a picture.

[massplumber2008]

Here is a picture that should help with Harold's description.

Let him know by name what you think he said... then let him tell you if he agrees... ;)

Just wanted to post a pic. here Harold. You know I love to post pictures!

Great job as usual!

.

[ballengerb1]

You guys are my idols with all your pics. Harold is correct about the clevis length, you can cut it or bend it. The 18" stub out would have been my standard rough in and that would have avoided the issue but that's water over the dam.

[natalieblueeyes]

I had tried moving the horizontal pivot bar up a notch on the clevis, but when I did that the drain in the sink doesn't open as much.

There is some play in moving the clevis to the side but not enough to avoid the drain pipe.

I had called the manufacturer (Delta) about cutting off part of the clevis and the guy I talked to thought it would void the warranty on the faucet. That doesn't make a lot of sense.

But even if I solve this problem, I still have the problem of the p-trap when it is connected to the drain pipe not fitting in the back of the pedestal sink base.

Natalie

[hkstroud]

I had called the manufacturer (Delta) about cutting off part of the clevis and the guy I talked to thought it would void the warranty on the faucet. That doesn't make alot of sense.

I agree that that doesn't make a lot of sense. He probably didn't know what part you were speaking off. I'd cut it. You can always give up a cup of coffee and by another one at Home Depot. If you don't want to cut it, Just bend it below the point where the horizontal rod is attached.

On the other problem;
If part of the fixture is covering the drain pipe coming out of the wall I'm afraid that you don't have any choice but to lower the drain pipe.

[natalieblueeyes]

Here is a picture of the p-trap, drain pipe and pedestal sink base. It may be hard to see in the picture, but the p-trap hits right at the cross piece on the base. (We haven't cut the drain pipe yet.)

If the drain pipe was even 1" lower, it would be o.k.

Any ideas of what to do -- without having to lower the drain pipe.

Thanks.
Natalie

[speedball1]

the guy I talked to thought it would void the warranty on the faucet. That doesn't make a lot of sense.

The guy was mistaken. Cut back what you can and if that isn't enough then twist the pop up just far enough to miss the stub-out.

Any ideas of what to do -- without having to lower the drain pipe.

Here's what I would do. I would cut the old trap out and build my own. Come off the stub-out with a ABS 90 and drop the "J" bend (which you will build out of a couple of street 90's) down under the cross piece and come out of the "J" bend with a raiser that has a 1 1 /2 ABS compression fitting with a 1 1/2 X 1 1/4 Gasket. This will drop the trap under the cross piece without moving the stub-out and allow you to complete your project. Good luck, Tom

[natalieblueeyes]

To give you a little more information. The drain for the sink (not in picture) runs down the middle of the base for the pedestal sink. The trap hits right at the cross piece in the base and cannot fit under the cross piece.

Thanks.

Natalie

[ballengerb1]

Natalie, could you retake that picture but drop down a few more inches and temporarily place your pivot rod and clevis?

[massplumber2008]

Hi Natalie:

You are in good hands with all these guys... I am glad everyone liked my picture.

Tom's idea of building your own deeper p-trap from 90 degree fittings is a good idea and will allow you to plumb the trap so it ends up under the crosspiece in the base.

You could also use a diamond saw blade if you or a friend own a grinder and then take this base outside and with goggles and a mask on, cut out the crosspiece at the base.

A diamond saw will cut that out in 30 seconds flat and then can use a normal trap.

If you don't have access to such a saw, then just build a deeper trap like Tom suggested.

In terms of the clevis, I will leave you with Bob and Harold... seems there is a question or two that needs to be answered.

Good luck... MARK

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