[PrettyLady]

Your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - green will make it a brown color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out.





Underlying color + Artifcial color = Final result


Levels of Hair Color

1=Black
2=Very Dark Brown
3=Dark Brown
4=Brown
5=Medium Brown
6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blonde


Types of Haircolor


Level 1, Semi-permanent color-- This product adds color without changing natural color dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before treatment. This level generally lasts for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50 percent gray, enhances your natural color and leaves no roots. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair color because it contains no ammonia or peroxide.

Level 2, Demi-permanent color--This product level lasts longer, through 24 to 26 shampoos. In this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex where they then partner to create medium-sized color molecules. Their larger size means they take longer to wash out. These products do not contain ammonia so the natural pigment can't be lightened. However, it contains a small amount of peroxide, which allows for a subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement. It also blends and covers gray. (Both semi- and demi-permanent colors can become permanent on permed or already-colored hair!)

Level 3, Permanent color--This is what you need for a more significant color change (to go from black to blond, you'll still need to go with a process called double process blonding and it'd be wise to get this it done professionally). In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a size that cannot be washed out. Your hair actually has to grow out over time. This product acts to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then to add a new permanent color. The result is a combination of your natural hair pigment and the new shade you chose. That means the color may appear different on you than on someone else using the same color. (That's why the "strand test" is so important -- more about that later.) Regular touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color growing at half an inch per month from your scalp.

Highlights consist of selecting small or thick strands of hair that are then lightened at least 2 shades lighter than the rest of your hair. Highlights should compliment your natural or artificial color. One misconception of highlighting is that highlights are only blonde in color. This is not true. If your color is a level 3 (dark black/brown) you can add highlights that are a level 6 (medium brown). You should never go more than 3 shades lighter then the rest of your hair color. The object of highlighting is to give you a sun-kissed look and to bring depth and light to your overall color. If you color and highlight, it is not necessary to highlight every time you color. Opt for highlight every other color appointment.

Lowlights, for the most part, are not as popular in coloring as highlighting. This seems to be due to the lack of knowledge on the Stylists part to inform their clients of this service. Lowlights can do wonders for a color. If you love the look of highlighting, but don't want a dramatic look, lowlights are the way to go. Low lighting consists of taking small to thick strands of hair and darkening them at least 2 shades darker than the rest of your hair. I recommend adding lowlights every third time you get your hair highlighted. They will help blend your highlights with your natural color, and you won't have to run to the salon with dark roots every six weeks.

How it Works Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex, or middle layer, to deposit or remove the color. The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until they are part of an oxidation chemical reaction.


The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. Lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer - is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.

10 Volume- Color deposit with only slight lightening.

20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening

30 Volume- Strong lightening action with less color deposit.

Bleaching Boosters- can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions. Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.

[PrettyLady]

Permanent Hair Color Chemistry


Permanent color works by opening up the cuticle and going through a lift and deposit process. It is a chemical process and if the correct product is used, the amount of damage that occurs in usually minimal. However, it is important to go to a highly trained professional.

Permanent hair colors are the best products for covering gray hair. It can also create bright or very natural looking hair color changes.

Permanent hair color can be either single process or double process. Single process refers to slight changes in hair color, perhaps a few shades lighter or a few shades darker. Double processing is used when you want a drastically lighter color.

A disadvantage of using permanent hair color is also an advantage--the color is permanent. If you don't like the results that you get, you will need to let your hair grow out or do additional color corrections to get to the right shade. It is imperative that you follow the directions on the box and even call the toll free number for additional advice or suggestions.

Some people have their home hair color down to a science, even mixing together several colors to create a custom shade. Any major mistakes may necessitate a trip to your hair stylist for corrections. For example, if your hair is very damaged, the cortex layer may not hold the permanent color.

In short, if you have never colored your hair before, you should either start with a semi permanent color if you are doing it yourself or go to a salon to have it done the first few times. As always, when in doubt, consult with a hair stylist that has experience in hair coloring.

[namitam]

Thanks for this informaiton, I would like to know if we have "dos and Donts" for colourd hair and any ways of enhancing the crowing glory

[Belizian]

Yes , but what about color for a African-American woman?

[pradagirl304]

Thank u

[hkubby3985]

Thanks, its been so long since school and I've actually done hair.. was like a refresher course, thanks!

[jas8273]

Provided a lot of background information and proved that they know the subject.

[Rain26]

Because I know nothing about hair except how to mess mine up

[Charlotte1]

Thank you soooo much. Now I know why my highlights went WHITE when my Cousin who is a hairdresser did them at home for me - peroxide 50 should never have been used!