[rhesusmonkeyboy]

Oh great gurus,

I have a Whirlpool Thin Twin Model:LTE 623 4DT2 , I believe it's on the order of 8 years old.

SYMPTOM:
The washer works absolutely fine and great, however, spontaneously the dryer does nothing. It worked once, and near as I can tell without warning... stopped working.

SPECIFICALLY:
You "turn on" the dryer and nothing moves. It's not that it does not get hot, it doesn't move, doesn't make a sound, it doesn't acknowledge our request to do something.

PRELIMINARY TROUBLESHOOTING:

My buddy and I looked at the wiring associated with the dryer and everything looked fine. All connections existed, and there was no corrosion.

We're guessing it's the switch, but I'd like some master opinions or recommendations for ascertaining what broke.



Thanks in advance!

[esquire1]

So you are saying the motor dosen't ran at all? Have you check the door switch and the thermal fuse located on the back of the blower housing? If either of these have gone bad it will interrupt power to the motor

[rhesusmonkeyboy]

So you are saying the motor dosen't ran at all??

Correct, absolutely nothing happens. Not a single "clicking" noise, nor an attempt at a motor start up... nothing nothing.

Have you check the door switch and the thermal fuse located on the back of the blower housing? If either of these have gone bad it will interupt power to the motor

Door Switch
We tried looking and poking the door switch ( like apes inspecting a brick ) but now that you ask, should we try to remove it and see that the resistance changes from INFINITY to LOW-OHMS across the switch?

Thermal fuse
Sorry, I don't know what "blower housing" is... I don't recall seeing any fuses when we removed the "front panel" along the top to take a peek at the switches et al.

Is this fuse easy to get to? Can someone tell me a general procedure to check it out?

[esquire1]

THe fuse is on the back side of the blower motor housing. It is where the motor that bpowes the hot air around. The motor is enclosed and has a metal cover over it The fuse is on the back side. It is about 3/8" wide and 2-3" long with a wire going into and out of it. You can jumper it to test. Or with unit UNPLUGGED check for continuity. Same for the door switch. Becareful as you are working around electricity

[rhesusmonkeyboy]

Thanks, we'll check these out tonight.

Thanks for the additional electrical warning. I'm an EE so I unplug, wait a while and short the plug with a huge screwdriver... in case of capacitors.

So if the switch and fuse "check out," do folks think replacing the switch is a fair next step?

[esquire1]

I don't recommend changing parts unless you can veify it is bad

[rhesusmonkeyboy]

Sorry t bug you, thanks for the help thus far.

If everything else checks out, how does one verify the switch? It's got tons of settings, et al, so I don't know what I should do to verify it electrically.

Thanks!

[rhesusmonkeyboy]

CLICK FOR LARGER IMAGES:

I never found that fuse, though I did check out other guys.

First off the temperature guys looked like power mosfets almost, I was thinking big glass tube fuses, which is wrong.

Here's one of the "things" we found:


Anyway here's a schematic


I don't see the fuse of which you speak.

The switch on the dryer was "one" or "infinity" ohms depending on the setting, and I think everything else was "one" ohms, however I think one of the things we measured was 6 ohms, but I had a difficult time correlating the schematic with the dryer... the wire colors were the only help I had.

You guys suggest getting a pro? Or any other tips?

[biggsie]

Pictures are worth a thousand words -- hope I'm not butting in

My dryer won't run!

[esquire1]

Do you see at the bottomof the schem. The "thermal fuse, non resetable??" Check it for continuity or jumper around it for test purpose only. It is about3/8" wide and 2/12-3" long