[ballengerb1]

Filling a tub with water and setting in structolite is more important for acrylic and fiberglass tubs. It can't hurt with cast but they can weight 450 lbs empty so there isn't much movement.

[massplumber2008]

Jon123 I don't use the mortar or structolite for a cast iron tub... just the ledger strip (I would screw this in at first... make sure positioned/leveled right.. then nail if want).

I do however use the modified thinset or structolite for an AMERICAST tub... americast is a great tub... but fact is that it is not a cast iron tub... (really just a really thick plastic tub... or similar)... so I put in structolite... no creaks... a good thing.

Good luck.

[massplumber2008]

Hey Ballenger... I forgot to mention the weighting of the tub. Thanks for the back up and for not beating me over it!

[jon123]

Massplumber, I was down the street local plumber supply can get me a kohler cast iron for about 440 plus tax.. they weigh about 460lbs. Lowe's or home depot has the americast for 426.00 but it is much lighter... I know I can drop either tub in but which material would you go with the cast iron kohler or the americast which is basically a steel core with an acrylic composite type porcelain finish? I have no problem using the lighter tub with mortar to deaden the sound or to ease movement and do understand your method of installation. But again is wheeling in and dropping a 460lb cast all that much more difficult? I know to set the ledger to the backwall studs for the cast iron only and no bed of mortar is needed. I do have the man power.. thank you again for helping me , all of you good people!

[massplumber2008]

Hey Jon... Well, first I wonder what kohler cast iron tub you are talking about... the villager Off PALLET only weighs about 330 lbs... and that is still heavy/awkward. So just wondering. AND another side note... im my area home depot sells the kohler villager cast iron tob for about $350ish... so check with them before purchasing from plumbing supply house.. a plumbing supply house is not giving you wholesale price... closer to retail... but look at home depot... even online.

Let me tell you though... a cast iron tub is a big deal compared to the americast... getting in place and then getting ledger strip in right place (tip tub forward here.. do not remove from space to get ledger strip in).. and hard to get upstairs... BUT I would always go with the cast iron... you asked.. ;) .

BUT again, if americast in structolite or similar... also nice tub. Back to you.

[jon123]

Mass, been browsing HD site and see it now.. I pretty much want to keep it the same.. the kohler villager model 716-0 is showing white/in stock for $340.76 the lady on the phone at local HD said it would be a special order /color almond for $442.99.. glad to learn it is a lot less than the kid at that mom and pop plumbing supply claimed! Anyway they still can't beat the Lowe's or HD prices. My plumber is going away for a week vaca so I have time to shop around prices.. also think I'm going to shoot for the Delta faucets if it is true they have 5 year warranty.. No doubt the warranty is first for the faucets! Thanks again!

[jon123]

Mass/anyone, I am using 1/2x3x5 hardibacker and was wondering which side is the surface or does it matter? This is not the EZ grid 3/8.. the 1/2 has somewhat a rougher side than the other with no grid. I will not apply any sheets in the three side alcove yet until we set the tub. Thanks ahead!

[massplumber2008]

Hey Jon... the way I do it... usually hardibacker has its name on 1 side.. that is the side the tile sets on (with hardibacker, seems to be smooth side out for tiling). BUT HERE, check this site out, and please if you are putting on a floor... you MUST set the hardibacker in a thinset mortar and you must stagger the joints between boards... AND you must tape joints with alkaline resistant tape... and use their screws.. *WHEW*... anyway, read the PDF file.. that should answer all questions... Keep us posted JON!!

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...install-us.pdf

[jon123]

Yes mass, I had visited that site before and thoroughly reviewed all their audio clips, excellent site with the exception if I'm not mistaken, I don't believe I seen anywhere on the site mentioning which was tile side for ttheir 1/2.. however, I am in agreement with you in that the smoother side is likely best for the tile side. And knowing the hardibacker plastic product label with the bar code doesn't peel off easy and would be the unpractical side knowing each label would likely need to be peeled off 100% for preparation of wall tiling. I will certainly let all you know how it goes. Not this week but the following, end of feb.beginning march , I should have the tub for the plumber to help me with a brand new brass/bronze finish waistetrap kit for the kohler 716-0 bathtub and a kohler toilet to match in almond. The 5/8 subfloor is cut out but not screwed down yet.. waiting for the plumber. So can't do the thinset hardibacker on the floor and even the alcove because the tub ain't in and so I am done for now. I did add some support bridging , I jigsawed out a 4" coffee can hole in 3/4 ply and temp screwed to 1x2x12" screwed flush to the paraell floor joist so the toilet trap ring screws have it solid before tiling.. Same for the towel racks and tissue holders but with 2x4 between the studs. Also just needed 3 sheets 4x8 of that new GPmoisture resistant gypsum board (fiberglass yellow on the backside) finish side is white. I'm not tiling the lower portions of the towel wall and toilet vanity side as it was> instead will paint.. and down the road I can always tile or maybe even go with sheets of beadboad with a handrail trim.. but that's just possible variations in design of preference.. I know tile too is the best. Just don't want too much tile! One thing I thought for myself is I made sure I put a 2x4 flat positioned parallel to the floor joists. One 5ft 2x4 flat supported by 2x4 bridging. Will meet the floor tile positioned roughly 30" to34" away from the window wall.. this additional nailer will reenforce and give extra support where the screws will be used to tighen both the hardibacker and subfloor.. I hope this helps others with similar projects! Keep up the great work! God bless!

[massplumber2008]

Actually I like the rougher side... LOL... but all installations I have seen other people do always have the name out on front. I think this is planned by hardibacker so all will see their name when walking past.. you know... so that is why I say they want smooth side out.

Also note that the ledger strip can not be as long as 5 feet... cut 4 inches off each end.. you will see why when tub arrives. Talk soon.

[jon123]

1 5/8 Coated Backerboard Screws!later!

[jon123]

THANK YOU ABOUT THE LEDGER BOARD MASS, ANOTHER THING I WAS WONDERING IS IF THE ALCOVE IS 60.25 .won't it be a tough squeeze positioning with only a 1/4 clearance? Have not found a step by step illustration online for dropping in a cast iron.. and also the ledger, how do you position the ledger before dropping or do you get the tub in first mark and rule tilt the tub and than install the ledger? I know the plumber probably knows, but just curious how it is done. Thanks again

[massplumber2008]

Yup.. will be tight.. but not as bad as you might think... I love this question by the way.. 'cause I specialize in it!

I usually leave a 1/4" to 1/2" clearance... so tight, but can be done. Here, you must have two hefty guys.. and as I mentioned... pull tub forward of studs... Then from upright position drop that tub (without tub waste and overflow assembly attached if makes easier... as long as can access later)... point here is that for every 1/4" 1st guy does, second guy must match. Hopefully plumber helping here agrees.

The ledger strip... YUP! Dry fit first... (I have been waiting for THAT QUESTION... BY THE WAY!). Set tub level and mark so that mark MINUS tub thickness equals where to place ledger strip. Then you screw in ledger strip by measure.. so that equals measure plus LEVEL both front to back and left to right.

Then set tub to fit ledger strip... (tilt tub in/out to confirm).. Make adjustments.. then set ledger strip dead on.

Let me know if need more info. Like I said I do these at least once a week!

[jon123]

Mass, going to depot for the tub, it should easily slip in and out of my tundra.. I am thinking of using a handcart to jump the 3 stone steps through back door glider.. from there through the kitchen floor tile and down the hall to the bathroom. Do you leave it in the crate or is there a better method of getting the tub from the driveway to bathroom? Man power is not an issue, just wondering if carrying it ( 326lb.) up the steps or using a handcart or dolly it on the kitchen tile floor? Another question in mind is about the ledger, wouldn't it be easier to set it slightly higher on level and than shim the tub on level to ledger as needed? Thereby avoiding having to tilt the tub back out using the heavy tub as a template for measuring and positioning the ledger? B eback later got to go now ! Thanks ahead and very much appreciate this site and you guys!

[massplumber2008]

Hey jon... I remove the tub from crate before bringing into home. And it is not hard to tilt tub in/out for ledger strip... but it is hard to place shims under those tiny little legs of tub (if you decide to place shims... make them metal shims (junction box cover plates do great! )... wood will compress over time.

Carrying it in is a little awkward, but it is only 160lbs each or so for each guy.. so just take your time (oh! And stand up when turning hall corners... twist tub.. then lift again and go through doors (if hall tight).

Good luck today!

[jon123]

Mass, you are too cool by the way! Got the tub , first time lifted an iron tub with another guy, no problem as you say.. not worried about getting it it now after feelinbg the weight from depot to home. Still need to tie in the plumbing traps.. ( have old lead trap elbow to cast main with the leadpacking.. I probably should wait for the plumber and watch him covert these tub/toilet traps instead of trying it first time myself? Plus he's going to connect the tub waiste line and toilet trap along with the vanity cut off valves not to mention the shower diverter valves /whatever.. this is my only holdup here.. will wait by the way Passaic New Jersey home depot 399.00 for almond kohler + 3.5% tax not bad when other counties are 7%sales tax.. lol anyway the funny but sad truth too was about 50 + illegal mexicans were in the depot lot there.. I felt sorry and actually tipped one nice guy a few bucks for just a couple seconds to help me with the tub into my pu bed. Soon after they all scattered in fear of the patrol car just seconds after. Boy what a world online ehh?

[massplumber2008]

No doubt jon... no doubt.

Since plumber is involved, let him change that lead pipe over... but yeah.. watch what he does... may help in future projects. As always keep us posted.

[jon123]

Mass, just wondering when /if going with 3/16 spacers for the porcelian tiles in showertub alcove, should I use that sealer mixed in with the sand grout? Or should I just use the grout and later use some kind of sealant spray after grouting? I have to read up on this stuff.. guy at Lowe's sold me this "Aqua-Mix penetrating sealer and recommended I use it. Actually, there is a technical assistance number on this gallon of aqua mix sealer. Find outlet you know!

[massplumber2008]

I am unfamiliar with that grout... I use a 2-part epoxy grout for most of my installations... never needs sealing... never changes color.. guaranteed!

I bet Ballengerb1 has used this product.. or another guy is GLAVINE... I know he is familiar with it as he instructed a poster recently on using it (I think). That poster added 2 parts of A.. no part B (sealer).. so grout never hardened... ouch!

Just go to the members list (at top of this page) button and Glavine is on page #3 (so am I... why I know that ;) )... click on his name and send him a private message... he can tell you more... for sure.

[jon123]

Wow, she said never mix any sealer with grout!. most grouts are specially fortified and do not need additives. A few days after tiling and grouting, I will brush the sealant and wipe dry.