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akvince · Jan 2, 2006, 07:10 AM

Our 4 year old Maytag refrigerator (MTB2156GE) is not providing adequate cooling. We pulled it out and cleaned behind and below- all systems appear to be working, but even as we adjust thermostat for cooler temp, it remains tempid inside. Frig has also been making some loud noises- almost like the sound an empty plastic soda bottle makes when the air inside heats up and the plastic expands. Is there an online repair manual we can consult before calling in the expensive repair person?

fredg · Jan 2, 2006, 07:17 AM

Hi,
When you say you have cleaned behind and below it, I assume you have cleaned out all the dust buildup from the coils under the refrigerator itself.
If it's low on gas, then the only option is to call a repair person.
I am sure someone will be along to give some things you might check on yourself. Best of luck.

applguy · Jan 9, 2006, 05:52 PM

I am one of those "expensive" guys---are you still having trouble? Maybe I can help.

ofted42 · Jan 15, 2006, 02:04 PM

I have actually been having the same problem. We have a Maytag MTB2156GEQ and it hasn't been cooling well at all lately. Temp in the fridge is about 52 degrees even on the highest setting. The freezer seems to be fine. I pulled off the back panel and vacuumed out the condenser coil and everything else under there. I then pulled out the control panel on the ceiling of the fridge. The channel between the freezer and fridge was almost completely blocked with ice. I cleaned it out by taking out the back panel of the freezer and pouring hot water down through the hole until it was clear. I figured that would solve it but it doesn't seem to be any better. Does the fridge get its cooling through that channel in the bottom of the freezer? Any help would be great,thanks.

labman · Jan 15, 2006, 07:01 PM

How old is it? Usually if the coil ices up, the unit has a leak and is low on Freon. I just saw the bill for repairing a couple of leaks and refilling the Freon on one, $210. Likely a good move on that large comercial unit. A home refrigerator likely going to be almost as much. You may want to check the price of a new one.

ofted42 · Jan 15, 2006, 08:27 PM

It wasn't the coil that iced up, it was the vent between the freezer and fridge. The freezer is working fine, it's like the fridge isn't getting the cold air it needs.

labman · Jan 15, 2006, 08:49 PM

I am sorry, I guess I didn't read your post carefully enough. I think each section has its own expansion valve and coils. The one expansion valve could be bad. They are outside DIY. Applguy may be able to give more details.

ofted42 · Jan 15, 2006, 09:26 PM

Yes, it looks like a repairman might be in order. I've tried everything I can think of. Thanks for the thoughts though, it's appreciated. One question, there's a fan at the back of the freezer behind the cover that leads to the fridge. It never seems to run at all. Does it only come on at certain times?

ofted42 · Jan 16, 2006, 06:55 PM

I think I finally figured out the problem. The circulating fan in the back of the freezer doesn't turn on anymore when the condenser runs. I think it's keeping the air from reaching the lower compartment effectively. My problem now is I don't know why it's not running anymore. I'm guessing either bad connection or bad fan. I know there was a wiring schematic in the control panel of the fridge but unfortunately I can't seem to find it anymore. Does anyone know where I could find one?

applguy · Jan 16, 2006, 07:11 PM

The schematic won't help you in this case. The fan in this refrigerator should always run when the compressor is running. The fan in the freezer section is called the evaporator fan motor. You are quite right; if the evap fan motor doesn't run, the fresh food section will be starved for air. The upper sections of the freezer will also be warmer than the lower sections. Depending on the age of the unit, it's probably a small, white body Panasonic fan motor. This fan motor has not proven itself to be worth the plastic it's made of. It is probably not a connection problem, rather a bad fan motor. At this point, you have one of two options: 1) go to a local appliance service depot and ask for Maytag Genuine Parts part number 61005339; I charge $90.00 for this motor, so you should expect about that much. 2) go to an appliance repair depot that has a local Johnstone supply account and ask for part number S58-099: I charge 36.00 for this motor. This is the motor I use regularly. If you use the Johnstone motor, you have to reverse the rotor so the shaft rotates the same way as the original, which is a very simple operation. The Johnstone motor won't have the exact connections as the original, but I always try to connect the new motor leads in such a way as to not cut off any factory harness connectors, whenever possible. If you use wire nuts or bell terminals, it is best to fill the connector with silicone after you crimp it to keep moisture out of your connection. Hope the info helps.

ofted42 · Jan 16, 2006, 07:23 PM

Yes, exactly. I actually have the fan motor sitting here next to me, and it's the white panasonic you mentioned. ;) I found a site online where I can order it from. Just so I'm sure it's the motor, do you happen to know the voltage that it should be getting when the condenser so I can check the connections at the fan? Thanks for the help.

applguy · Jan 16, 2006, 07:25 PM

120 Volts AC. By the way, you keep mentioning the condenser. The condenser is just a coil of tubing under the refrigerator. I'm sure you mean compressor, which is the motorized pump that moves the refrigerant. It's a small detail, but you sometimes can get into trouble by using the wrong terms. Good luck.

ofted42 · Jan 16, 2006, 07:27 PM

Hmm, when I checked the power at the leads it doesn't seem to be getting any power at all. Green/yellow wire is the ground obviously, but I'm not getting anything on the blue and orange ones. Also, any easy way to check and see if the fan itself is bad? I really appreciate the answers so far, this thing has been kicking my butt for a few days now.

applguy · Jan 16, 2006, 07:30 PM

What exactly does the motor connection look like? Also, what are the first two numbers of the serial number?

ofted42 · Jan 16, 2006, 07:44 PM

Sorry, you're right, I meant the compressor. And I think I got it now. Helps if you set the damn voltmeter for AC instead of DC. :rolleyes: I've got a good 120v AC at the plug, it has to be the fan. I'll order a new one and hopefully that should take care of it. In case I missed something it's a 4 pin connector, all in a row, with the blue and orange wires at either end. Serial number is UDQR002MB. I know it might be getting repetitive, but thanks again. My wife is ecstatic we don't have call someone to come fix it. :D

applguy · Jan 16, 2006, 07:53 PM

Your serial sticker must not be very legible anymore. Maytag serial number nomenclature is always 8 numbers followed by 2 letters. The first two numbers are usually extremely important to make sure you get the right part. Fortunately, there are only two factory fan motors for this unit, and the only difference was the electrical connection. If you use the Johnstone motor, it doesn't matter. If you want the exact factory replacement, you have to have the first two numbers of the serial number. If they are "10", the number to order is 61005339. If they are "14", you will order 61005935, which specifies "evap motor, with lead". The 61005935 is much cheaper, usually around 60.00.

ofted42 · Jan 16, 2006, 08:01 PM

Yes, I found it now. Heh, I gave you the number off the fan itself, not the fridge. It's a 61005935 motor. I'm going to try and find someone around here tomorrow with a johnstone motor. If I can't I'll order the factory replacement.

applguy · Jan 16, 2006, 08:24 PM

Don't forget, with the Johnstone motor, you have to reverse the rotation so the blade turns the right way. You can insert (very carefully) the motor wires into any outlet briefly to verify upward airflow. Unfortunately, with the small 4 wire connector, you will just have to cut it off and wire up to the new motor. The only problem with that is that you can't ever put the original design motor back in. Not that you would ever need to or even want to, but I like to keep my options open. The other tip I forgot is to wait until the new motor is mounted to the evap cover, then slide the fan blade onto the shaft. You want half the blade width to be behind the panel and the other half to be in front of the cover. Essentially, you want the blade to be half way in the hole; if you push it on too far or not far enough, airflow won't be right and cooling ability will be reduced. I think you've got it now, so I'll leave you to it. Don't worry about repetitive, you can only learn when you ask.

ofted42 · Jan 16, 2006, 08:58 PM

Sounds good, thanks. One interesting thing, the motor I pulled out is definitely the 61005935, but the fridge serial number starts with a 12. Since I know which motor it is it's a moot point, but it still seems odd.

applguy · Jan 16, 2006, 09:06 PM

The 10 & 14 numbers are series numbers. They signify a design change to some part(s) of the appliance. That's why they are very important. Series 10 parts are valid until the next change, in this case, series 14. So series 10 part numbers work in series 10, 11, 12, and 13 units. Series 14 parts are valid for series 14 units up to the point of the next change. All manufacturers must use some type of system like this to help technicians in the field get the right parts the first time, because the appliance industry has become very volatile in the last decade or two. Sorry to confuse you, I should have been clearer before.