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donf · Jan 3, 2008, 11:13 AM

Labor

Sorry for the confusion about the apartment. I read the unit description and leaped to an unfounded assumption. Not the first time, but I do apologize.

However, that said, NEC code says that the combined Range/Oven will operate at 240 VAC with an ampacity of 40 amps, max. It makes no distinction between an apartment or a single dwelling residence.

By code, you will need a 40 amp Dual Pole, Single Throw breaker. Using #8/3 cable you connect the Black lead to one pole and the Red lead to the other pole. Ground and Neutral will connect to their respective bus bars. One lead per hole, do not double up the leads. Make sure that you leave enough wire to reach the bus bars.

Snake your wire to the panel first, add the outlet box in the kitchen. Place the box within six inches off the floor. Purchase a four port receptacle and face plate and a four wire range/oven line cord. On the unit, disconnect the ground lead. Place Black lead on one pole, the Red on the other pole. Neutral and Ground are connected as diagrammed. At the wall, install the outlet, connecting the leads as indicated on the back of the receptacle.

Now install the faceplate. Back at the panel, turn off the panel, connect the Black and Red leads to the breaker and install the breaker. Then cut the White and Ground leads to fit the length needed to Range Breaker on.

labman · Jan 3, 2008, 12:01 PM

The more I think about it, the less sense a cord makes. If it is built in, how are you going to unplug it before working on it?

donf · Jan 3, 2008, 12:11 PM

Ouch!

You have to use a 4 prong cord to connect to the receptacle. How about just because that's what NEC says you will do!

Also, Range/Oven units are designed with an open area under the unit to allow the extra cord a place to hide. You need the cord length so that the unit can be pulled out from the surrounding cabinets, if there are any, to allow a tech to get behind the unit for any live work he needs to do.

Please, a little common sense!

Stratmando · Jan 3, 2008, 01:59 PM

Where does Code say it has to be plugged in?

KISS · Jan 3, 2008, 03:02 PM

I was just at Lowe's and I found 3 and 4 conductor range cords pre-made with ring terminals.

The plug/cord depends on whether you can "convert" or use 4 wires. If three are used, then use the appropriate receptacle and cap off the white in the receptacle box.

Available amperage is not a function of the sum of the breaker values. The panel can accept a certain number of poles or places you can attach wires to and that is specified on the nameplate.

There are two types of breakers. One is designed to operate a 240 V load and the other is designed to operate two 120 V loads. The former has a bar between the breakers. The latter does not. It has 2 independent breakers in one unit.

donf · Jan 3, 2008, 06:39 PM

Strat,

Under the index, Ranges first subject sends you to 422.16. Exception 2.

Stratmando · Jan 3, 2008, 06:59 PM

OOps, I was thinking cooktop, Another post. Ignore my statement about "where does code say..." Thanks, Take Care
I still use 2 6"s ,1 #8, and a 10. I never? Have to upgrade.

tkrussell · Jan 4, 2008, 09:52 AM

Don, please re-read Section 422.16 of the 2008 NEC. It is for flexible cords, and does not address whether a disconnect is required or not.

Which exception? I see no Exception #2. An exception will be related to a certain sub section.

I see no ranges listed in 422.16, other than 422.16 (3), which is for Wall mounted Ovens and Counter mounted cooktops, and how flexible cords shall be permitted, if used, but not required.

And no one should ever hesitate to ask "where in the code does it say"...