[hvac1000]

It is hard for me to see but if the thermostat has a adjustable heat anticipator try incerasing it. Usually there is a arrow that says longer with the direction to mover it.

What is the model number and brand thermostat. I will see if I can look it up.

[labman]

Browse the sticky at https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...ons-58313.html

Next time it won't start do the furnace/thermostat test. If it still won't start, post back with what point in the sequence it fails.

[darque]

\\\ok,,,now you have determined,the thermostat is bypassed and you still have the prob.,somust be in the furnace,,,have you checked and cleaned the flame senser?

How can I check and clean the flame sensor? It's a rheem criterion gas furnace, pictures of the setup on page 2 of this thread, thanks

[darque]

It is hard for me to see but if the thermostat has a adjustable heat anticipator try incerasing it. Usually there is a arrow that says longer with the direction to mover it.

What is the model number and brand thermostat. I will see if I can look it up.

Honeywell thermostat T8195B, thanks

[darque]

Browse the sticky at https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...ons-58313.html

Next time it won't start do the furnace/thermostat test. If it still won't start, post back with what point in the sequence it fails.

Always the same behavior, just a total of a few minutes consisting of maybe 5 or 6 burn and blow cycles then no more and that is with jumping red and white with no thermostat... :(

[labman]

Ok, if you have the problem with the red and white connected, it is a furnace problem, not at thermostat problem. Go back to the sticky and note where in the start up sequence it fails.

[T-Top]

When you move your t-stat down than back up you are resetting the control board.Its called a soft start by breaking 24v on the W circuit. If it was a major problem you would need to kill the power going to the unit to get it to reset or manually press a button inside the furnace(hard start). If you are using LP you may have moister in your tank, in cooler temps the regulator will freeze and starve the system for gas. That system should have a diagnostic light to tell you why it locked out.

[darque]

When you move your t-stat down than back up you are resetting the control board.Its called a soft start by breaking 24v on the W circuit. If it was a major problem you would need to kill the power going to the unit to get it to reset or manually press a button inside the furnace(hard start). If you are using LP you may have moister in your tank, in cooler temps the regulator will freeze and starve the system for gas. That system should have a diagnostic light to tell you why it locked out.

Actually just gas line coming in so no tanks and still can't figure this thing out but thanks for any other ideas

[darque]

MY POST TITLE IS INCORRECT, IT SHOULD BE - "HEATER ONLY WORK FOR FIVE MINUTES ANYTIME" temp does not make a difference

Here's more pics with a question, is the sensor in yellow circle the flame sensor? Has markings on the bottom "TOD J1" has no corrosion on it but should I try a new one and if so where in los angeles can I get one?

Other thing is the rod I thought was the flame sensor has no wires connected to it at all so what is this rod circled in red in the picture. It can slide left to right about and inch but can't come out without taking the whole assembly out, thanks guys for any help.

And other info is that by jumping red and white it will do the five minutes as noted in my other posts but it doesn't matter what the temp is outside, cold or warm it will only do that five minutes with R/W jumped. There are 4 wires you see me holding that all run to a square coil or ? But as you see not connected to anything, make a difference for the heater?

[darque]

There are 4 wires u see me holding that all run to a square coil or ? But as u see not connected to anything, make a difference for the heater?[/QUOTE]


Actually a correction, those 4 wires (2 yellow, 1 WHT, 1 BLK) run to a small white plastic box, not a coil, box circled in green in photo

[hvac1000]

Yellow not actually a flame sensor. It is a rollout type overload that senses when the flame or too much heat is coming out of the furnace from the wrong place. That should not happen at that location for normal operation and it should not have to be pushed to reset unless there is a problem.

Do the two burners light off and burn normally? Blue with a bit of yellow tips?
Do you have to reset that switch in yellow?

[darque]

Yellow not actually a flame sensor. it is a rollout type overload that senses when the flame or to much heat is coming out of the furnace from the wrong place. That should not happen at that location for normal operation and it should not have to be pushed to reset unless there is a problem.

Do the two burners light off and burn normally? Blue with a bit of yellow tips?
Do you have to reset that switch in yellow?

Flames burn blue real good. I noticed that they burn for 20 seconds then go off, then the fan goes on for 30 sec, then off and ignitor glows and another 20 sec off flame, then off, then fan on for 30, etc. this is the usual cycle that lasts about 5 minutes then nothing until I re jump red and white. One question is should the fan be coming on while the flame burns or is it proper for them to alternate?

Any help on where the flame sensor is on this rheem criterion II and how to clean it? Thanks

[hvac1000]

Sounds like a flame sensor problem to me unless that pilot is a 3 wire set up then it could be bad.
I have not followed this thread but have you cleaned the pilot orifice?

[darque]

Sounds like a flame sensor problem to me unless that pilot is a 3 wire set up then it could be bad.
I have not followed this thread but have you cleaned the pilot orifice?

Can u look at the picture and tell me if u see a flame sensor? Thanks

[hvac1000]

I do not see a flame sensor but I do see a HSI (hot surface ignition system).

The blue line area item is a hot surface ignitor device. It should glow then the furnace should lite.

Are you on LP gas/Propane if so there could be a 5 minute lock out on your furnace?

See circuit board for a code flashing from a green LED. Open the blower door so you can see the PC board. Push the safety door switch and wait for the middle LED to start flashing a repeating code. On the blower door there is a flow chart of operation and a key to the code. THis may indicate a problem code.

Integrated control board and for some reason the ignitor is "locking out" for some reason.

[Mogwai]

Hi Darque, and everyone else, I currently have just about the same problem, actually I think it is. I've done some research and want to clean my "flame sensor" but can't find one. Heating igniter glows for 10-15 seconds then shuts down, tries 2 more times then locks down, in which I either go to thermostat and turn off and back on OR turn power switch off and back on that is located on side of furnace. Here is the part that I think should help solve our dilemma. Once I get mine going(after reseting it a gazillion times, my furnace will run properly until I turn it down to go to bed, then in the morning I go play ball with it again. I also have a Rheem/Rudd furnace and it worked fine from Oct through November(michigan). And like I said, I believe the next step is cleaning the flame sensor which I can't find. I will provide pictures tomorrow.

[hvac1000]

The sensor in this unit is called a remote flame sensor. That is all I know.

[T-Top]

The hot surface ignitor is the flame sensor also with this style of unit.

[T-Top]

Don't try to clean it you will only break it. If its glowing that is not your problem.

[darque]

Dont try to clean it you will only break it. If its glowing that is not your problem.

Thanks t-top, it does glow fine. Could it be glowing fine but still have a problem with being too sensitive for monitoring the flame from age?