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mtnbkr · Sep 24, 2007, 01:56 PM

So from what I gather, it sounds like it's not recommended for in wall application. I guess I don't really need it to be in wall, and can just leave it unfinished. Just trying to hear what people think. Any code problems in Maryland?

Now for the water heater. What I'm trying to do is move my hot water heater about 4 feet over from where it currently is. I currently have all sweat connections w/ copper. I'm moving the hot water heater closer to where the copper is coming from, so will need to cut it down (does that make sense... I won't need to extend it out or anything). Therefore, what I'm thinking is I'll cut off about 4 feet, roughly the distance I want to move, then put compression to 3/4 cpvc adapters on. I don't want to make any sweat connections, since I've never done that before. Then I was going to run CPVC down from the ceiling where the copper is, down close to the water heater. From there, solvent on some npt threads (using roughly 2 wraps of teflon tape... right?), then get some flexible water heater connectors to go from there to the heater, then back out. Anything wrong with this?

Thanks.

speedball1 · Sep 24, 2007, 03:47 PM

Why convert to CPVC? Why not keep it copper to copper and use 3/4" compression couplings,(see image) if you're going to keep it out the wall?
Good luck, Tom

harleygirl52 · Sep 24, 2007, 03:49 PM

Originally Posted by mtnbkr

So from what I gather, it sounds like it's not recommended for in wall application. I guess I don't really need it to be in wall, and can just leave it unfinished. Just trying to hear what people think. Any code problems in Maryland?

Now for the water heater. What I'm trying to do is move my hot water heater about 4 feet over from where it currently is. I currently have all sweat connections w/ copper. I'm moving the hot water heater closer to where the copper is coming from, so will need to cut it down (does that make sense...I won't need to extend it out or anything). Therefore, what I'm thinking is I'll cut off about 4 feet, roughly the distance I want to move, then put compression to 3/4 cpvc adapters on. I don't want to make any sweat connections, since I've never done that before. Then I was going to run CPVC down from the ceiling where the copper is, down close to the water heater. From there, solvent on some npt threads (using roughly 2 wraps of teflon tape...right?), then get some flexible water heater connectors to go from there to the heater, then back out. Anything wrong with this?

Thanks.

Why use CPVC at all, just compression fit from the copper pipe, you can get a flexible pipe up to 2 ft. I believe, and since it is flexible it can bend to shape as needed... so, I would not cut anything until you are sure, what size flexible pipe you can buy... cutting the copper pipe maked sense, just make sure you don't cut too much... I don't see any need for CPVC... the flexible pipe with the compression fitting is attached to the copper pipe and than directly to the hot water heater either directly or with a compression fetting as well... you can ask the someone at the place you purchase the hot water heater... wwhen you say in wall fitting I suspect you mean that the pipi is inside the wall and you want to make the compression fitting on that particular pipe is that correct??

mtnbkr · Sep 25, 2007, 03:53 AM

I guess I can try to sweat some copper. From what someone told me at work, he recommended mapp gas as opposed to propane gas. Any thoughts on that? He said that it's much tougher now since it's lead free, and said mapp gas would make my life easier.

speedball1 · Sep 25, 2007, 06:57 AM

Originally Posted by mtnbkr

I guess I can try to sweat some copper. From what someone told me at work, he recommended mapp gas as opposed to propane gas. Any thoughts on that? He said that it's much tougher now since it's lead free, and said mapp gas would make my life easier.

I don't understand. I gave you a way to connect the copper lines together without soldering. What's the problem with using brass compression couplings?
Regards, Tom

mtnbkr · Sep 25, 2007, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by speedball1

I don't understand. I gave you a way to connect the copper lines together without soldering. What's the problem with using brass compression couplings?
Regards, Tom

I assumed that it's better to sweat the pipes together. Is that true? I thought just doing it through soldering might give me a good life skill too!

speedball1 · Sep 25, 2007, 07:07 AM

OK I understand! Mapp or propane will give you the same results. Propane just takes a little longer t6o heat the fitting. The secret of soldering is cleaning, fluxing and heat.
Take plumbers sand cloth and shine the pipe back a few inches and with a 1 1/2" cleaning brush shine the inside of the fitting to be soldered.
Now paint both pipe and fitting with NoCorrode Solder paste or a acid based paste and join the pipes.
Fire up the torch using a medium tip and apply heat to the BOTTOM of the fitting while holding the tip of your solder on TOP.
When the solder begins to melt on top run the tip of the solder around the joint. Capillary action will suck the solder into the joint as you run the solder around the joint. Run the solder around several times and let it set it. You have just completed your solder job. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. Tom

KISS · Sep 25, 2007, 07:18 AM

Tom's right, but I'll add something. I taught someone to solder and I allowed him to watch and do the easy joints. When I try to train someone, I'll place a piece of pipe verticle and the fitting on top. Do what Tom says in preparation, but when heating add more heat to the massive part. When the pipe is hot enough, you can remove the torch and touch the solder around the joint and it will flow UP by capillary action. This is the technique you need to master. To make it look pretty you can wipe the excess solder with a slightly damp rag.

My friend then did a plumbing project with 20 joints and no leaks.

mtnbkr · Sep 25, 2007, 09:46 AM

I'll get soldering a shot. Would you guys recommend the mapp or propane? Is mapp that much more?

KISS · Sep 26, 2007, 11:27 PM

The Mapp torch is expensive and in general the valve is opened all the way. The tips control the flame size. You have to use distance to control the heat.

With propane you can throttle the flame with the valve.

I've never soft soldered pipe with MAPP. I've silver soldered with MAPP and Oxygen and Acetelene and Oxygen and MAPP.

I've done some quartz glass work with Oxygen/Hydrogen.

My vote is for Propane.

Reminder: Don't solder anywhere near the inlet/outlet of the water heater. There are plastic inserts that will be damaged.

afaroo · Sep 27, 2007, 12:20 AM

Why don't you use the Shark Bite coupliings

mtnbkr · Sep 27, 2007, 03:15 AM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

The Mapp torch is expensive and in general the valve is opened all the way. The tips control the flame size. You have to use distance to control the heat.

With propane you can throttle the flame with the valve.

I've never soft soldered pipe with MAPP. I've silver soldered with MAPP and Oxygen and Acetelene and Oxygen and MAPP.

I've done some quartz glass work with Oxygen/Hydrogen.

My vote is for Propane.

Reminder: Don't solder anywhere near the inlet/outlet of the water heater. There are plastic inserts that will be damaged.

The mapp is mighty expensive at my local stores. I might end up with propane... still not 100% decided.

Thanks for the tip on the inlet/outlet for the water heater. I read that on another forum as well.