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    jessica_sheen's Avatar
    jessica_sheen Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Aug 29, 2007, 04:30 PM
    Toilet tank fills when water valve is off
    My toilet tank fills (not immediately after fludhing, but within an hour) even though the water valve is turned off. What could the issue be and can I easily fix this myself?
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
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    #2

    Aug 29, 2007, 05:51 PM
    The valve is bad or may have an obstruction. You can attempt to "flush" the water line or change the valve.

    XenoSapien
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #3

    Aug 29, 2007, 06:17 PM
    I agree likely it is a leaky valve, but you shouldn't need to change the whole thing. You will need shut the water off someplace before the valve. Unless you know the hot water tank has an expansion tank, if you shut the main cold water valve off, you need to open a hot water tap. Either the inlet or outlet of a hot water heater must alwaysbe open. Then unscrew the nut between the handle and valve, and remove the valve stem. It may be dirty, or have a bad rubber washer. Clean and replace if needed. Put the nut back on and turn the hot water off everything else back on.

    Note, the seat the rubber washer fits against must be smooth. If not, it must be replaced if possible, or the whole valve replaced. To replace the valve, first unscrew the nut holding the tubing going up to the tank. Then sign 2 wrenches, hold the pipe coming out of the wall While unscrewing the valve.

    Questions? Post back.
    jessica_sheen's Avatar
    jessica_sheen Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Aug 29, 2007, 06:54 PM
    Thanks for both of your responses. It sounds like it's not a big deal - that it can wait (we just might lose a little water and pay a little higher bill) a couple months until my dad can fix it.

    Would you agree it could wait a couple of months?

    We were also advised to bend the pole with the ball on the end slightly so that less water fills in the tank (i.e. below the safety drain tube (I know that's not the correct name).

    Thanks again.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #5

    Aug 29, 2007, 09:36 PM
    Maybe I misunderstood your question. My directions are for the valve below the tank. If it is the valve inside, that is different. If it is a problem, take a look at https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbi...et-123542.html None of this stuff is too hard to work on. Look over the job and post back with questions.
    DaPlUmBeRGuY's Avatar
    DaPlUmBeRGuY Posts: 8, Reputation: 2
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    #6

    Mar 6, 2008, 06:14 PM
    Either the supply line is blocked with calcium or rust? Perhaps the diaphragm is dirty , or the port(waterway)? It's self is blocked . Most quick solution buy a fluid master ballcock kit and replace the ballcock and the flapper for safe measure ! Rather simple feat !
    If you should take the task... when you turn off your angle stop or even have one? Check pressure at that point before replacing ? Can be a pressure problem !
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
    Senior Member
     
    #7

    Mar 7, 2008, 04:35 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jessica_sheen
    Thanks for both of your responses. It sounds like it's not a big deal - that it can wait (we just might lose a little water and pay a little higher bill) a couple months until my dad can fix it.

    Would you agree it could wait a couple of months?

    We were also advised to bend the pole with the ball on the end slightly so that less water fills in the tank (i.e. below the safety drain tube (I know that's not the correct name).

    Thanks again.
    Bending the pole is very risky. If you do this, get someone who has done it before.

    XenoSapien

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