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tkrussell · Sep 12, 2007, 04:24 PM

No, you don't need #4, you can use #6 THHN for a 60 amp breaker and feeder.

labman · Sep 17, 2007, 12:54 PM

Can I run a cable through the sub panel to get to the main panel? It isn't long enough to go around. That circuit would work better in the main panel.

tkrussell · Sep 17, 2007, 01:04 PM

Yes, just remove the cable sheathing so you only pass the insulated wires pass through.

labman · Sep 21, 2007, 02:14 PM

Well today is the day. I shut the power off this morning and have spent most of the day disconnecting stuff and rerouting cables. I hope to have things far along to have the power back on by dark.

The neutral bar and the equipment ground are all one piece. You would need a hacksaw to separate them. There is definitely 2 different rows of screws, but the one row had both neutrals and grounds. Should I clean that up? Although the box has 20 slots, each row only has 12 screws. Some of them are larger and the fine print specifies how many of what size wires you can use with them.

tkrussell · Sep 21, 2007, 02:32 PM

The older panels never did allow for neutrals and grounds. If I remember this panel has the main in it. OK for the neutch and gnds together, if more ports are needed, get an equipment ground bar, and separate if desired. Definitely more work, but good therapy for those anal, like me.

A well made panel with 42 circuits and all separate neutrals and grounds is something to see.

Best to connect both with a wire jumper.

5:14 and still at it? How is it going?

labman · Sep 21, 2007, 08:04 PM

Well it is dark now, and I have quit for the night. There is still enough stuff connected in the main panel to get by for the night. Trying to untangle a bunch of old #10 is slow going.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of using one row for grounds and one row for neutrals. The upper row is all grounds now, and the lower one only has one bundle of grounds in it. Moving it to the upper one will free a large hole for the #6 to feed the sub panel.

tkrussell · Sep 22, 2007, 02:00 AM

I knew I could talk you into it.

tkrussell · Sep 23, 2007, 04:09 AM

Well are you done yet?

No pressure...

What is the chance of seeing some pictures?

labman · Sep 26, 2007, 03:39 PM

The end is in sight. Would it be OK to terminate the neutral of one circuit that passes through the main panel there and the hot in the sub panel? The 2 panels are only separated by a 1 1/2'' offset nipple. I lack about 3'' of neutral to reach the neutral bar at the bottom of the sub panel.

I do have the best pictures my cheap little digital camera takes.

tkrussell · Sep 26, 2007, 04:24 PM

Sure, the neutral is the same, and the imbalance will be negligible.

labman · Sep 29, 2007, 02:59 PM

I decided not to connect that neutral in the main panel, but to save the last neutral port there for the TVSS I plan to add. I saw I could move the other end from one 4'' box to the one above it I recently added, gaining 4'' which is more then enough. When I added the upper box, I ended up with so much wire in the lower one, I had trouble getting the cover on. Remember, I am still fighting the coil of 10-2 I was given 30 years ago. Originally I had the feed connected to line terminals of a GFCI outlet and another duplex connected to the load side over my work bench. Later I have daisy chained the those outlets to two more in the garage. To avoid unplugging one and plugging in the other every time I change the tool I am using, I recently added another 4'' box and 2 more duplex outlets.

Electricity is like dogs, the more I learn, the more I realize I didn't know. I had connected the 2 boxes with a strain relief, run NM singles and ground wire through it and tightened it up. Is that right? Should I use an all thread nipple, nuts, and bushings? Run screws through the little holes next to the knock out? If I do that, do I need some kind of a bushing in the knockouts?

Could the full moon explain some of the recent answers here? # 6 for 125 amp service, #14 in a 20 amp service, and the obsession with switch loops? I am glad I have somebody that knows more than me here to come to for help.

tkrussell · Sep 30, 2007, 04:19 AM

Originally Posted by labman

I had connected the 2 boxes with a strain relief, run NM singles and ground wire through it and tightened it up. Is that right? Should I use an all thread nipple, nuts, and bushings? Run screws through the little holes next to the knock out? If I do that, do I need some kind of a bushing in the knockouts?

Sorry I am not understanding what your referring to.

labman · Sep 30, 2007, 09:33 AM

Likely I confused things with too much detail. I have 2 of the 4'' x 4'' boxes mounted one above the other. How do I fasten them together, and do I need to protect the wiring where it passes through to the second?

tkrussell · Sep 30, 2007, 12:45 PM

Ahh, OK, better put.

Yes the wires need protection from the sharp metal edges, so you can use a close nipple with two locknuts and bushing at each end, or if the boxes are directly next to each other, use a Chase nipple one locknut and bushing.

labman · Sep 30, 2007, 02:36 PM

I don't think I will plague the electrical supply with buying one 1/2'' Chase nipple. They may only come in boxes of 50. I doubt the big box stores have heard of them. I will use the plumbing short nipple that was the best the Ace hardware could come up with. So many little details to getting things right.

labman · Oct 5, 2007, 07:56 PM

All right, the furnace ran off the generator. This project is finally winding down. I have the covers back on both breaker boxes, and the interlock works. I set the box and spliced the NM-B to the flex cord. I shut everything down but a few lights and made the switch and fired up the generator. I then turned the furnace on, and it fired right up.

I still have a lot of details to finish up, adding locktite to the screws holding the plate now I know it works, the all important UL approved stickers, posting a new list of breakers, some drywall repair, and on and on.

The furnace is properly tied to the house wiring, hot, neutral, and equipment ground. The generator is properly tied in, 2 hots, neutral, and ground. I checked and I had 116 volts on the one leg under light load. Forgot to check the other leg. Since it worked on first try, it gives no clue to other's problems. I suspect the 116 volts might drop under a heavier load, but still be higher than many have coming in from the power company. I checked that the other night, 122 volts. Note, using a Sears 982017 Multimeter.