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    Ed_Mouse's Avatar
    Ed_Mouse Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Aug 4, 2005, 09:04 PM
    Hot & Cold Water Pressure An Issue
    We recently bought a house. Our water pressure is terrible and the hot water is even worse. :( (Basically dribbles out.) Are the two problems correctable by adjusting the "cut-in, cut-out" pressure? The well is about 50 feet from the house. Pressure tank inside the house in the basement which is about 9 feet underground and about 30 feet from the well; the hot water tank, however, is located in the basement at the back of the house and about 30 feet from the pressure tank also. Does the hot water tank have it's own pressure adjustment too? :confused:

    Another concern is that if we manage to increase the pressure could this break the pipes? :eek:

    Lastly, it would seem we may have air trapped in the line. When you turn on the kitchen faucet (cold water only) it runs for a few seconds then "pops" jolting the faucet and sending a sudden spurt of water into the sink dowsing everything in sight :eek: . I would imagine this is tough on the plumbing and would like to get it out, but I can't figure out how. :mad: Could this be the reason for the pressure problem?

    S
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Aug 5, 2005, 05:47 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed_Mouse
    We recently bought a house. Our water pressure is terrible and the hot water is even worse. :( (Basically dribbles out.) Are the two problems correctable by adjusting the "cut-in, cut-out" pressure? The well is about 50 feet from the house. Pressure tank inside the house in the basement which is about 9 feet underground and about 30 feet from the well; the hot water tank, however, is located in the basement at the back of the house and about 30 feet from the pressure tank also. Does the hot water tank have it's own pressure adjustment too? :confused:

    Another concern is that if we manage to increase the pressure could this break the pipes? :eek:

    Lastly, it would seem we may have air trapped in the line. When you turn on the kitchen faucet (cold water only) it runs for a few seconds then "pops" jolting the faucet and sending a sudden spurt of water into the sink dowsing everything in sight :eek: . I would imagine this is tough on the plumbing and would like to get it out, but I can't figure out how. :mad: Could this be the reason for the pressure problem?

    S

    Good morning Ed,

    Before I can answer I need a little more information. How old is the house you bought? What material are your pipes? Copper, galvanized or plastic? What is the pressure at the pump?(there should be a gage) What type of pressure tank do you have? Bladder tank or galvanized pressure tank? Does the pump come on every time you open a faucet or make a draw? The hot water tank does not have a pressure control. Its pressure is controlled from the pump. Get back to me and I'll answer ASAP. Tom
    Ed_Mouse's Avatar
    Ed_Mouse Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Aug 6, 2005, 08:30 AM
    A Little More Info
    :D The house was built in 1962. The pipes are made of copper (but I've noticed where the previous owners had a problem here and there and since the pipes are sealed up by the ceiling in the basement in those areas I don't know what they replaced those areas with; could be copper... could be PVC). The type of tank is a bladder tank. The pressure at the pump is 22 psi before use; it kicks on a minute after you start running water at about 21 psi and after you shut the water off it pumps up to 44 psi. --Sue
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    Aug 6, 2005, 08:57 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed_Mouse
    :D The house was built in 1962. The pipes are made of copper (but I've noticed where the previous owners had a problem here and there and since the pipes are sealed up by the ceiling in the basement in those areas I don't know what they replaced those areas with; could be copper...could be PVC). The type of tank is a bladder tank. The pressure at the pump is 22 psi before use; it kicks on a minute after you start running water at about 21 psi and after you shut the water off it pumps up to 44 psi. --Sue

    Hi Sue,

    One of my concerns would be the drop in pressure from 44 PSI down to 22 PSI. Where does the pressure go? Leak? When the pump gets up to cut off pressure,(44 PSI) does the gage fall after the pump shuts off without anyone making a draw?
    You have a 20/40 PSI control box that appears to be operating normally. But it sounds like you may have a ruptured bladder in the bladder tank. To check, Let all the air out of the bladder with the air valve. There should be no water coming out. If there is you have a ruptured bladder and the tank should be changed. If not then shut off the pump and let the pressure drain out. Then take a hand pump and pump up the pressure to 2# under your cut in pressure of 20#, in your case 18#. I use a 12 volt tire pump that I hook up to a battery charger to run. Does the job quite nicely.
    Let me check your water system one thing at a time. Then after you check and answer we'll move on.

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