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    daisymactx's Avatar
    daisymactx Posts: 46, Reputation: 7
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    #1

    Aug 1, 2007, 11:22 AM
    What are your opinions on clicker training
    My little Chloe is 3 months old and I really want to get her trained to do what I want her to. I went to the bookstore and found a book on training dogs, but alas, it recommends clicker training and I'm not too sure about that. I tried it with a previous dog (that came from a shelter) and it didn't go well at all. But he was much older and pretty skitterish to begin with.

    Also, what book, and/or books, do you think are the best? She is a chihuahua/poodle mix and will be small, and is very hyper (when she's awake.) She seems to be pretty sharp, and knows a few commands, but I can't get her to stop jumping up on my grandchildren, or stop barking when she sees our cats.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #2

    Aug 1, 2007, 03:28 PM
    I have never tried clicker training, but the people that suggest it in general seem to know dogs. It is a positive method and fits in with the current trend toward such methods. One thing I don't like about it is having to have the clicker all the time. I always am ready with a ''Good dog!'' unless my mouth if full or something. I can also give a quiet, unobtrusive one when I am in a meeting or something. As for other books, I think you have seen my suggestions of the Monks of New Skete. There is also a good list in the sticky at https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/dogs/i...tml#post251804 None of the ones I have read so far are the basic book you would need. I have checked the book stores, and they don't seem to carry the books on the list. I would say skip Cesar Milan and the Stay, Fetch book.

    I would say you are doing 2 things right. You are taking your small dog seriously. Failing to do so is a common, but bad mistake. Many households are ruled by 10 pounds of dog. You are starting early. Not as early as I do. My puppies get their first obedience lessons on the way out of the kennel the day I pick them up. Even at 3 months, you must keep the sessions short, only a few repetitions of each command. A few minutes here and there, and you puppy is obedience trained before many people start.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #3

    Aug 1, 2007, 03:34 PM
    Consistently is very important in correcting jumping and other problems. Quickly correcting her every time she jumps on somebody is very important. Something bad has to happen each time. People are successful with a number of different things. One of the most gentle is to grab his front paws and hold him up. The traditional knee to the chest or step on his paws work well too. Last fall I attended a seminar on dog training. The presenter liked the step backwards and turn your back. It seemed to work well for the brave souls that admitted their dog need work and tried it in front of the class. In each case apply ''Bad dog, its name off!'' in a firm, but not loud voice. Go ahead with it even if she is too quick to add a physical correction. It can be tough teaching others to give her the right correction.
    RubyPitbull's Avatar
    RubyPitbull Posts: 3,575, Reputation: 648
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    #4

    Aug 1, 2007, 05:11 PM
    I have to say I am not a proponent of the knee in chest method to get a dog to stop jumping. Most of the modern trainers are realizing that it is not a positive method. Especially when you are dealing with small dogs. I subscribe to the take a step backward, turn your back and ignore method, with the firm words labman mentions. A dog will keep trying to get your attention, you keep turning around and do not touch him/her. Another method I use is the walk through method. When you come in the front door, you just keep walking and do not acknowledge the dog. Put down your packages or if you don't have packages, start busying yourself with something. Ignore the dog. In both cases, they will eventually sit or lie down. After they are in that position for a minute, say, "Good girl/boy and their name." You can then go and pet them and tell them "Good girl/boy, and their name. You need to teach your grandchildren to do these methods every time they come into the house. It takes repetition and consistency to extinguish that behavior in a dog.

    The barking is a little more difficult to manage. At this age, you can try redirecting the dog with a favorite toy. You can also try a short, firm, staccato type vocal directive such as "CH, CH, CH, CH". When you have her attention you tell her "No. Bad dog Chloe" and redirect her attention to something positive such as the toy and when she stops barking tell her, "Good Girl, Chloe" and make a big fuss over her. Positive reinforcement for good behavior.

    I have used the clicker method. I personally do not like it. But, there are a lot of people out there that swear by it. I prefer using verbal and hand signals. It really is what you are comfortable with.

    Do you have any training classes or can you get a referrel from your vet for a good trainer in your area? Since you are having problems with these situations, it might be beneficial to start with some training classes geared toward you specific problem so you can physically see how the training methods are applied.
    froggy7's Avatar
    froggy7 Posts: 1,801, Reputation: 242
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    #5

    Aug 1, 2007, 08:33 PM
    I was reading up on clicker training recently, and they emphasized that it's really just a way of getting the dog to "take a picture" of a good act, so that they learn what they are supposed to do. The idea is that they learn to associate the sound with a promise of a reward, so that you can tell them that they did something right even when you don't have a reward right there on you to reinforce them. All of which is background to say that you can use something like a tongue-cluck to mark the act when you don't have the clicker with you, by getting them to associate that sound with rewards as well.

    Oh, and the important thing is that you need to click at the right time, because the dog is going to associate it with whatever it was doing at the time that it hears the sound. There's a behaviorist out there that has people practice with chickens, because they are trainable but learn exactly what you click. So it's a good tool for learning exactly when to click.
    RubyPitbull's Avatar
    RubyPitbull Posts: 3,575, Reputation: 648
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    #6

    Aug 2, 2007, 04:06 AM
    You are right about the reasoning behind the clicker froggy. The tongue clucking, a trigger word such as "YES" said in a firm & excited voice, or a regular whistle, all perform in the same way. For me, I found the addition of a clicker, as with a whistle, made it more difficult to manage and handle the dog. I felt like I needed three hands, one to hold the leash on a dog full of energy, another to click, and a third to treat (food or pet & praise) at the proper time. Even with the use of a waist pouch, it was difficult. I guess I was too spastic LOL. The timing to treat or give the positive reinforcement is very important in training correctly, as I am sure you know. I just didn't think having an extra gadget in my hand was necessary to get the job done.
    pawsdogdaycare's Avatar
    pawsdogdaycare Posts: 92, Reputation: 5
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    #7

    Aug 2, 2007, 04:12 AM
    In my experience and I have used clicker training at my facility is that it is a good tool for the right individual that is serious and knowlegable about dog behavior. I would consider it a tool for the advance or those having advanced goals for the training of their dogs. Yes the average joe can click and treat and teach a dog to sit, but it would be more labor intensive than just issuing the command and treating. The other problem with the clicker and why I don't recommend it for everyone is that if you are not serious about it, and have it with you at all times, you will just end up confusing the dog. For trainers or for those individuals that are trying to get a dog to complete complex tasks, such as getting things from the fridge, or cleaning up toys, or any other multi step task that you can train a dog to complete, clickers are great as they are precise to the millisecond in freezing a moment in time for a dog and letting them know what the reward is for. So in conclusion I would just go simple if you're a regular dog owner with simple goals, if you're a trainer or and owner with more complex goals then use a clicker but be serious and practice your timing.
    RubyPitbull's Avatar
    RubyPitbull Posts: 3,575, Reputation: 648
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    #8

    Aug 2, 2007, 04:46 AM
    I agree paws, that it is a very useful tool for more complex goals and that it is more of a labor intensive training. However, I am a bit offended by the way you phrased your first and last sentences. I am not a person who is not "knowledgeable about dog behavior" or resistant to change for that matter. I always look for, and test out, new and more positive reinforcement methods. I have seen new pet owners who like and do well with the clicker training, and use it simply for basic training. It has worked well for them. I also think it is a great tool to use for agility training. I think it has more to do with personal preference rather than a person's knowledge or lack thereof. I was not physically comfortable incorporating and using an additional gadget for training when verbal and hand signals work just as well. It seemed to be an added step that wasn't really necessary In my opinion. I don't condemn it at all. As I said earlier, it works well for some people. I think it is just an additional and different method that can be added to the ever growing myriad of positive reinforcement training methods.
    pawsdogdaycare's Avatar
    pawsdogdaycare Posts: 92, Reputation: 5
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    #9

    Aug 2, 2007, 07:02 AM
    Not trying to offend, I have just found that the average joe uses it for about an hour before giving up.. If someone is committed to the process then by all means go for it.. but the person has to be serious about the training method.. and I agree totally for agility training it's the "heat" I use it for my aussies... they respond well to it..
    daisymactx's Avatar
    daisymactx Posts: 46, Reputation: 7
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    #10

    Aug 2, 2007, 07:49 AM
    Thanks for all the answers. Labman, I began training Chloe the day after I picked her up, and she was almost 7 weeks, so I have started earlier than just now.

    I had a "deer" chihuahua about 10 years ago that was a jewel. We trained her to do tricks, be obedient, and be able to walk with us without a leash, and we didn't use the clicker with her. But her personality was calmer than Chloe. I am a snapper - I snap my fingers very loud to get the attention of an animal. If that doesn't work I will clap very loud. But I thought that "maybe" the clicker would work. I think I will take the principle of the clicker and just use my voice. Like Ruby, I find it very hard to manage Chloe, a clicker and treats. I have not been putting her on a leash for training, only to go for a walk. Should I be?

    What I have been doing when she barks is to almost growl at her saying "quiet" while pointing at her. That works about 60% of the time, but she is so excited to see the cats, and I know that she wants to play with them, but 2 out of 3 just aren't going for it. The middle cat lays down and lets her race around him, and he tries to catch her with his paws. He is very tolerant. They even play with a soccer ball together in the back yard. He is almost 3 times her size. It's really cute. The youngest cat is scared of her, and runs off and hides, and the oldest cat is grumpy and gets very annoyed by her. She smacks her on the head, claws in, not out, and then Chloe yelps. These are the 2 she barks at.

    As far as the jumping up, I don't put up with it. I snap my fingers and say "SIT . . . STAY" and when she does I give her affection, or affection and a treat. The grandchild that she jumps on the most is only 18 months, so she doesn't really talk well enough. And the more that Bella tries to get away, the more excited Chloe gets. I would say sit, Chloe would sit expecting a treat, which I gave her, and then turn right around and jump again. I couldn't just keep giving her treats, so I eventually had to put her in her crate - which I know wasn't the right answer, but she was scratching the baby. I can't put my knee in her chest - physically impossible LOL! And I would be afraid I would break her little paws if I stepped on her, so I will try the voice command, or holding her paws up. Maybe I am being too loud. Hmmm.. .

    You have all given many fine suggestions. Thanks so much
    RubyPitbull's Avatar
    RubyPitbull Posts: 3,575, Reputation: 648
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    #11

    Aug 2, 2007, 09:17 AM
    Daisy, everything that you are saying that you do are all good positive reinforcement training techniques. I use the growl technique myself. Very effective. Just remember, she is still a puppy, so it will just take time and consistency on your part. You have managed to get her to do quite a lot in just five weeks time. Bravo! Be patient and just keep at it. The constant repetition will eventuallly pay off.

    Using a short lead attached to the collar in the house is a good training tool. I understand what you are saying about your grandchild. Put a short lead on the dog when Bella is visiting. As soon as the dog starts to jump, step on the lead and use your correction words. If you find that she just isn't responding to your direction after many attempts, considering Bella is so young, it might not be a bad idea to crate Chloe when she is visiting until Bella is a bit older and larger. It will keep both of them safe.

    Regarding the cats, allow them to correct her when necessary. The one that swatted her with claws in is very aware that Chloe is young and poses no danger. Your cat is simply letting Chloe know what the boundaries are. Chloe will eventually give up barking which is an attempt to get the attention of the two who refuse to play, or those two will eventually become comfortable with her and begin to interact with her. They will work out between them and the barking should eventually become extinguished. Just keep doing the corrections you are doing. Again, it is just another one of those things that will take time.
    daisymactx's Avatar
    daisymactx Posts: 46, Reputation: 7
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    #12

    Aug 2, 2007, 09:36 AM
    Thank for the encouragement Ruby. I am quite proud of her progress. She is a very bright little girl. She's just being a puppy. When puppies play they bark and charge at each other to get a chase going, and I know that is what she is wanting from the cats. They just have to get used to her, as you said. You would think she would have learned not to mess with the oldest, but so far she is not catching on, although she does not walk too closely in front of her!

    I will try the lead, but I only have a leash, so if I hold it very short that would work, too, right?
    RubyPitbull's Avatar
    RubyPitbull Posts: 3,575, Reputation: 648
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    #13

    Aug 2, 2007, 10:35 AM
    You can purchase a lightweight training lead for small dogs that is specifically designed without the wrist loop. You can use it in the house in place of a regular leash without worrying about a loop getting caught on anything. If you can't afford to do that, you don't have to hold the leash short. You actually don't hold it at all. Drop it on the floor. Let her walk around with it attached to her collar. When she jumps up, you just step on the part of the lead that is lying on the floor, closest to her body. That will keep her from jumping up without you having to physically touch her to intervene. And use the correction words. Practice this with her every time someone comes in the door. Once she is sitting or just standing without jumping, praise and/or treat her.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #14

    Aug 2, 2007, 11:19 AM
    Go to Wal-Mart and buy a cheap fabric leash and cut the handle off.

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