Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    lemedeiros1979's Avatar
    lemedeiros1979 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jul 8, 2007, 09:12 AM
    No shut offs in a shower stall?
    I am trying to remove an old shower stall to put in a closet and I opened the access panel and there are no shut off valves. How do I shut off the feed but not the entire house because I am not putting in another shower at this time?
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
    Senior Member
     
    #2

    Jul 12, 2007, 04:57 PM
    You could just install shut-offs that will be in the wall. Otherwise, cut out the 'T intersection' of the water-lines, and install a copper adaptor to reconnect the pipes.

    XenoSapien
    ThomasCKeat's Avatar
    ThomasCKeat Posts: 157, Reputation: 12
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Jul 12, 2007, 05:44 PM
    Do you have a cellar? Shut offs may be down there. Copper, pex, hard pipe of any kind? Need more info??
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
    Senior Member
     
    #4

    Jul 12, 2007, 06:01 PM
    No, I live an apartment, but know a bit about plumbing. If your lines are copper, you could just cut the nipples back and clamp a shut-off on the hot and cold line. Then install the wall over it. It sounds like you have to shut off the water to the whole house.

    XenoSapien
    scirocco70's Avatar
    scirocco70 Posts: 128, Reputation: 9
    Junior Member
     
    #5

    Jul 12, 2007, 06:36 PM
    Errrrr... I don't think you can "clamp a shut-off" onto supply pipes.

    Certainly, even if such things are available, they're not to code, and a terrible idea.

    The RIGHT way to do this is to shut the water off (to the whole house if necessary), drain the water out of those pipes, cut them and solder caps onto them.

    The water must be drained from the pipes, or they'll never heat up enough to melt the solder.
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
    Senior Member
     
    #6

    Jul 12, 2007, 06:42 PM
    With 'clamp', I meant compression type shut-offs. My mistake.

    XenoSapien
    ThomasCKeat's Avatar
    ThomasCKeat Posts: 157, Reputation: 12
    Junior Member
     
    #7

    Jul 12, 2007, 06:52 PM
    Hiding compression fittings inside of walls may be code but I would never. CUT THE COPPER AND SWEAT ON A CAP
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
    Senior Member
     
    #8

    Jul 12, 2007, 07:01 PM
    Yah, you can sweat on a cap. Compression shut-offs will be the easiest solution. Code? What is the city going to do? Start ripping out your drywall?

    XenoSapien
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #9

    Jul 12, 2007, 07:14 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ThomasCKeat
    hiding compression fittings inside of walls may be code but I would never.
    All of the prevailing codes adopted in North America expressly forbid concealing compression fittings on potable water systems.
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
    Senior Member
     
    #10

    Jul 12, 2007, 07:33 PM
    Fine. Ok, I can see that I need to get the code book out...

    XenoSapien
    ThomasCKeat's Avatar
    ThomasCKeat Posts: 157, Reputation: 12
    Junior Member
     
    #11

    Jul 12, 2007, 08:47 PM
    For me its not a code issue, compression fittings just can't be trusted in areas were one can't see it. They are easy for the diy person and that's why they are popular but any good plumber that's been around will support my choice here. This I am sure of.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
    Uber Member
     
    #12

    Jul 14, 2007, 01:49 PM
    The OP never said it is copper pipe.
    The Op may not be skilled at sweat soldering.
    I would likely put a threaded cap where pipe connected to the old shower valve.
    You may have to shut the water off to the entire hose to do the job. If you shut it off to the hot water tank, turn it off and leave a hot water tap open.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #13

    Jul 14, 2007, 05:03 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by labman
    The OP never said it is copper pipe.
    True.

    The Op may not be skilled at sweat soldering.
    If it is copper and he isn't skilled at "sweat soldering" then he should hire someone who is. Right?

    I would likely put a threaded cap where pipe connected to the old shower valve.
    You're assuming threaded fittings, Labman, what if they aren't?

    Would you still use a threaded cap if it's copper connected to a 'sweat soldered' valve-- If so, what kind of threaded cap would you use, and how would you attach it to the copper pipe?

    Sorry, but in the absence of more information from the OP, your two cents is every bit as worthless as most of the rest of the advice (including my own) in this thread.
    Turbopro25's Avatar
    Turbopro25 Posts: 16, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #14

    Jul 16, 2007, 02:32 PM
    Do not use compression fittings inside a wall. You will regret it. SOLDER. It takes just as long to solder a cap as it does to tighten on a compression fitting. Unless you don't know how to solder. If that's the case you shouldn't be messing with your copper pipes in the first place.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
    Uber Member
     
    #15

    Jul 16, 2007, 04:47 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler

    You're assuming threaded fittings, Labman, what if they aren't?
    Sorry, but in the absence of more information from the OP, your two cents is every bit as worthless as most of the rest of the advice (including my own) in this thread.
    Well I can't say they never made shower fixtures without a threaded connection, but I can say they aren't common.

    Whether you like it or not, I am going to continue to point out safe, workable ways for the people coming here for help to get the job done themselves. My post that you disdain, very likely gave the OP the answer he needed. Too bad somebody outside the plumbing priesthood has to solve these problems.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #16

    Jul 16, 2007, 05:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by labman
    Well I can't say they never made shower fixtures without a threaded connection, but I can say they aren't common.
    From a DIY point of view, you are correct.

    Tub and Shower valves sold in the big box stores that cater to the homeowner/DIY market most always have IPS connections.

    As for the Wholesale houses that sell only to contractors, the opposite is true, the valves are more often than not fitted with solder connectors.

    Whether you like it or not, I am going to continue to point out safe, workable ways for the people coming here for help to get the job done themselves.
    Except that isn't what you did.

    You chided those who responded for assuming the connections were copper, and then went on yourself to assume that the connections were threaded.

    Here's the rub, Labman, none of us, including you or I, know what the connections were because the OP bailed and didn't follow through.

    My post that you disdain, very likely gave the OP the answer he needed.
    It isn't usually the advice you give that I disdain, Labman -- What I disdain is the arrogant, pompous and unctuous way you deliver the advice.

    Y'know, when it comes right down to it, you're kind of a jerk, Labman.

    Too bad somebody outside the plumbing priesthood has to solve these problems.
    And there's that ol' rub again, Labman -- You no more solved the problem than I or any of the other responders did.
    ThomasCKeat's Avatar
    ThomasCKeat Posts: 157, Reputation: 12
    Junior Member
     
    #17

    Jul 16, 2007, 06:33 PM
    Wow I come to get advice from friendly helpful professionals and to read and learn things. Now and then when its something I may have some experience in I may offer some advice of my own knowing all the time we are all mature enough to either accept or reject the advice given. But now I can see I may also benefit from the wide vocabulary some of you have. Unctuous ! You Go
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #18

    Jul 16, 2007, 06:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ThomasCKeat
    Wow I come to get advice from friendly helpful professionals and to read and learn things. Now and then when its something I may have some experience in I may offer some advice of my own knowing all the time we are all mature enough to either accept or reject the advice given. But now I can see I may also benefit from the wide vocabulary some of you have. Unctuous ! You Go
    A must have for your bookmark lits.:D
    ThomasCKeat's Avatar
    ThomasCKeat Posts: 157, Reputation: 12
    Junior Member
     
    #19

    Jul 16, 2007, 06:40 PM
    iamgrowler, I will not mess with you. If I ever need to put you in your place I'll get help from speedball.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #20

    Jul 16, 2007, 06:47 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ThomasCKeat
    iamgrowler, I will not mess with you. If I ever need to put you in your place I'll get help from speedball.
    Well, given the nature of the forum and the preponderance of ego's, it'll likely come up at some point.

    Although, you've never questioned my credentials or told me to tear up my Journeyman's license, so I'd likely go much easier on you than I would >spits< Labman.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Adding a second shower head to shower stall [ 4 Answers ]

I'm trying to add a second shower head to a shower stall in the basement. What do I need to do to make sure an equal supply of water at the same temperature runs to both heads. I tried to just run a line from the first shower head to the next but that doesn't work.

Shower stall need height of controls and shower head [ 1 Answers ]

Hi Am building a shower and require the height of the taps and the shower head

Water shut offs [ 3 Answers ]

Hi, I am trying to replace a leaky faucet in the bathroom. The shutoffs under the sink, are not thresded, but screws into the knob. I can take them all the way out and not have a leak, which also means I am not shutting off the water. I know I can shut off the entire house, but not sure which...

Turning walking shower stall into bathtub/shower combo. [ 4 Answers ]

Question: Current shower drain (2" pipe) runs 5 feet, under slab, to vent stack (5" cast iron vent pipe) of toilet. Will need to move the drain 3ft to wall for new tub. After moving the drain, the complete length of the pipe will still be around 5 feet. We will have to reduce the drain line...

Shut offs [ 2 Answers ]

I am installing a few shut offs.. ball valve type. My question is, do the "lever"s have to be positioned at the top of the valve? Can the be mounted on the side or down... the valves will be installed horizontally.. Thanks.


View more questions Search