[gdubya]

I have torn out an upstairs tiled shower because of a leak in the 28 year old cardboard/plastic film pan. So, there's no turning back. The shower drain appears to be aluminum seated in an iron flange? And the aluminum pipe inserts into the pvc drain pipe. I would rather not tear up the living room ceiling below. I could cut into the plywood floor of the shower to cut the pvc and piece together a new drain pipe or I read a suggestion of an inside pvc cutter to rent?

I would appreciate your suggestions.

Thanks.
Gw

Upon further examination, the trap is a cast metal which the drain seats in. The flange appears to be just to sit on the plywood subfloor, not fastened. The cast metal trap is connected to the pvc drain pipe.

Altlhough I can cut into the plywood subfloor to cut off the trap/drain assembly, I guess I will still need to access from below to tighten the fitting of the new drain. At this point, I'm just answering my own questions, aren't I?

Still, I will appreciate your input.

Gw

[speedball1]

I have torn out an upstairs tiled shower because of a leak in the 28 year old cardboard/plastic film pan. So, there's no turning back. The shower drain appears to be aluminum seated in an iron flange? and the aluminum pipe inserts into the pvc drain pipe. I would rather not tear up the living room ceiling below. I could cut into the plywood floor of the shower to cut the pvc and piece together a new drain pipe or I read a suggestion of an inside pvc cutter to rent?

I would appreciate your suggestions.

Thanks.
gw

upon further examination, the trap is a cast metal which the drain seats in. The flange appears to be just to sit on the plywood subfloor, not fastened. The cast metal trap is connected to the pvc drain pipe.

Altlhough I can cut into the plywood subfloor to cut off the trap/drain assembly, I guess I will still need to access from below to tighten the fitting of the new drain. At this point, I'm just answering my own questions, aren't I?

Still, I will appreciate your input.

gw

Would it be possible to get us a picture of the drain? The trap is cast Iron? Can the stubup be unscrewed? I've never came across a aluminum shower drain, could you be mistaken? Is the PVC pipe the stubup?
Are we talking Glue, Solder, or lead and oakum joints? Let us know. Cheers Tom

[gdubya]

Tom,
Thanks for the prompt reply.

I am saying aluminum because the machined face is grooved like an lp. If it were stainless, I wouldn't expect to see the machining grooves. Also, when I hit it with a hammer :), it dented. However, it may be something other than aluminum.

The trap is a cast metal. It appears to be brass. It has a seam and it has a rough cast appearing exterior.

The drain transition to the trap is cast iron. The transition from trap to drain pipe is a pvc fitting with threads to the trap with some kind of compound to seal the threads.

Nothing in this house surprises me. I have already cut a hole in the ceiling to verify this connection, so I am prepared to cut the pvc, use a 2 - 1 1/2 bushing to the trap, because I don't have enough clearance for a 2" trap. I will then use another bushing off the trab to the stub which will connect to my new drain with a compression fitting.

Naturally, if I could avoid the new trap, I would do that, but I don't see how I can get the old drain off the old trap.

Thanks again... you guys provide a valuable service.
Gw

[speedball1]

Tom,
Thanks for the prompt reply.

I am saying aluminum because the machined face is grooved like an lp. If it were stainless, I wouldn't expect to see the machining grooves. Also, when I hit it with a hammer :), it dented. However, it may be something other than aluminum.

The trap is a cast metal. It appears to be brass. It has a seam and it has a rough cast appearing exterior.

The drain transition to the trap is cast iron. The transition from trap to drain pipe is a pvc fitting with threads to the trap with some kind of compound to seal the threads.

Nothing in this house surprises me. I have already cut a hole in the ceiling to verify this connection, so I am prepared to cut the pvc, use a 2 - 1 1/2 bushing to the trap, because I don't have enough clearance for a 2" trap. I will then use another bushing off the trab to the stub which will connect to my new drain with a compression fitting.

Naturally, if I could avoid the new trap, I would do that, but I don't see how I can get the old drain off the old trap.

Thanks again....you guys provide a valuable service.
gw

The drain sounds like chrome over brass to me. If the trap has threads I can see no reason to replace it. Every thing should unscrew as soon as you remove the bolts securing the cast iron flange. The drain screws into the flange. (It could really help if you had a picture) and the stubup screws into the trap. Once you get the drain removed you can take out the old Compitite shower pan and install a new plastic pan. That's how you describe what you wish to do. Let me tell you how I would go about it. The cast Iron flange sets on top o9f the shower pan and bolts into another flange under the shower pan. I would leave the trap, the drain, (unless it's too messed up) and the stub up alone. After I got the top cast iron flange off I would pull the old pan and install a new one. This is a thick plastic sheet that we build in one piece by folding the corners. (Making a shower pan isn't a job for a home owner.) Once the pan's down you can then bolt down the top flange and be ready to mud and tile the floor. Sound like a plan? Tom

[gdubya]

Tom,

You are correct. The drain is chromed brass. There is a two piece iron flange bolted together and screwed into the trap. I can see all of this now because I cut the pvc drain pipe and removed the trap & drain. I'm OK with putting in the new trap and drain.

I ordered an acrylic shower pan from kbrs, because this is a custom neoangle shower base. I didn't want go through this again, so I went with what I felt would be the most permanent fix. A solid base rather than a bladder seems to make sense.

I am planning on not tiling the shower floor, but leaving the acrylic surface. If this is not a good idea, please let me know.

Thanks again for the benefit of your expertise.
Gw

[speedball1]

Tom,

You are correct. The drain is chromed brass. There is a two piece iron flange bolted together and screwed into the trap. I can see all of this now because I cut the pvc drain pipe and removed the trap & drain. I'm ok with putting in the new trap and drain.

I ordered an acrylic shower pan from kbrs, because this is a custom neoangle shower base. I didn't want go thru this again, so I went with what I felt would be the most permanent fix. A solid base rather than a bladder seems to make sense.

I am planning on not tiling the shower floor, but leaving the acrylic surface. If this is not a good idea, please let me know.

Thanks again for the benefit of your expertise.
gw

Sometimes a manufactured shower pan is better then a tile one. Make sure that the pan has support under the pan before you install it. There should be no give when standing in it. Good luck, Tom