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PRPPRIMO · Jul 22, 2008, 08:05 PM

TXGM.. What are your thoughts of a non OEM complete distributor for $140 SHIPPED with a lifetime warranty? I called the local Honda dealer today, and was quoted $120 just for the coil. (special order)
Im thinking if the aftermarket company will back the distributor lifetime, vs. overpaying for one it may be the better way to go.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 22, 2008, 08:12 PM

I prefer installing an aftermarket ICM and coil in a Honda distributor housing ($135)--that's what I did.

I bought an OEM coil (TEC 30510PT2006) for my Civic from RockAuto.com for $43.90. It's the same TEC OEM coil that came in the car.

PRPPRIMO · Jul 22, 2008, 08:22 PM

I will get you the results as soon as they become available. I have heard many other with similar symptoms. The distributor ohms out good, and ends up being defective after all. I suppose this is a common hidden malfunction.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 22, 2008, 08:24 PM

Yes, I place very little faith in bench testing ICMs and coils.

PRPPRIMO · Jul 25, 2008, 04:56 PM

I woke up this morning with the thought in my mind that spark was present while cranking the motor. So why am I leaning so much towards an ICM or coil? I then decided to go rent a compression tester and perform a compression check. You guessed it, bad news. I am not getting anymore than 60 parts out of any of the cylinders. Im now thinking if I am going to perform a rebuild I might as well go with an upgrade. Considering installing a VTEC motor. Many available local, however most have been removed from 5th generation civics. Do these bolt in without modifiaction? Obviously I will need more than just the motor itself. ECM and complete wire/vacuum harness must be included. What is your 2 cents on this.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 25, 2008, 05:01 PM

Never been involved in that process. Personally, I would rebuild or install the same engine. Many try installing other engines and can't get them to start for the reasons you mentioned. I'd keep it simple and move forward.

On your new engine, use full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1) and then you will never wear it out or have major engine problems.

PRPPRIMO · Jul 25, 2008, 05:29 PM

Makes sense. Hopefully other viewers have learned a lot from this thread. Another bit of info is these engines should compress at least 145 parts of pressure per cylinder. If you are experiencing a crank but no start malfunction and have performed all ignition trouble shooting procedures posted by TXGM then it is not a bad idea to also perform a compression check, and ensure timing belt is good and timed properly.

CoB_hatecrew · Aug 7, 2008, 02:25 PM

Hey tx , the sensor you told me to check and the 02 sensor, are not the only sensors that control the spray width and durration, there are seven sensors, all of which are tied into the self diagnosis system, so if one of them went bad, my check engine light would come on and my Computer would set a code, neither of those are happening and the timing is correct, we think it could be the sparkplug wires, what do you think?

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 7, 2008, 05:28 PM

Don't have any other ideas--just go over everything possible and establish a "baseline" of what you know is good.

CoB_hatecrew · Oct 29, 2008, 12:22 PM

Well I replaced the sparkplugs and wires, and it ran, but still idles up and down, but if it runs for a few minutes, the idle settles into normal operation, but if you hit the gas it bogs down and starts to idle up and down again, we thought maybe a gasket but we sprayed carb cleaner around all the intake manny, and it didn't pick it up. I was recently told that the programmed fuel injection could be causing these symptoms, any ideas?

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 29, 2008, 12:27 PM

Have you cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, including hoses, and throttle body? I doubt the problem is with the PGM-FI system. It's likely something more basic.

PRPPRIMO · Oct 29, 2008, 12:32 PM

I agree with TXGM, clean or replace your IACV(clean it first). I would also run a fuel pressure test. (it should be around 40 psi) Does the car run good otherwise? Accelerates smoothly?

jeffrey383 · Jan 3, 2009, 02:21 AM

Check for the "click" sound of the main relay under the left side of the dash. If the fuel filter has not been changed in years change it, or a clogged filter will cause the pump to fail prematuerlly.

Mazeee · Feb 21, 2009, 12:48 PM

Heyy... I have a 1990 civic car won't stay running checked and replaced main relay... the car starts for a couple of minutes then shuts down... then you can't hear the fuel pump come on... if you let it sit for a bit then it will start then stop again...

bmoore2156 · Feb 21, 2009, 05:08 PM

Does it have spark when it decides to not start?