Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    meinmissouri's Avatar
    meinmissouri Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Sep 10, 2007, 12:53 PM
    Finishing problems. Always comes undone!
    I'm scared to sell or give away the jewelry I make because sooner or later it comes undone at or near the clasp! :mad: I use toggle clasps. If I use a clamtip the bendover part opens just enough that the jump ring comes undone from it or the jump ring doesn't close all the way and it comes undone there. I even use super jewelry glue... hypo cement. What am I doing wrong? :confused: What are the best and correct methods for adding a toggle clasp to a bracelet (or necklace) securely. Maybe I'm using the wrong things or doing it wrong. I use beading string. Save me! Thanks.
    firmbeliever's Avatar
    firmbeliever Posts: 2,919, Reputation: 463
    Ultra Member
     
    #2

    Sep 10, 2007, 04:14 PM
    ----------------------------
    Necklaces with Clasps
    How to Include a Clasp

    Start by threading your beading needle with the right length of doubled thread and then tie a knot at the end of the thread. Before stringing beads, first string one of the bead tips. Pull the needle through the loop end of the tip so that the end knot is on the inside of the loop. String your first bead, and even if you will be knotting your necklace, do not place a knot between the bead tip and first bead. The flat end of the bead tip should be resting next to the bead.

    Then continue stringing and knotting the beads for your necklace. When you get to the last bead, don't place a knot after it. Instead add the second bead tip, pulling the needle through the flat end this time. Place a knot at the end inside the loop to secure the bead tip. To snug the knot up against the bead tip, try wrapping the knot over a beading awl and pulling the awl as close as possible to the inside of the tip. Then, slip the awl off the knot.

    Your clasp should come with jump-rings attached. Slip each ring around an open loop on the bead tips and use the pliers to close each bead tip loop. Use super glue or clear nail polish to set the end-knots, so they don't unravel. You now have a finished necklace with a clasp.

    I find that the bead tip loops will pull apart if your necklace gets snagged, so you should glue the tips closed with jewelers cement, or try E6000 silicon adhesive. Just make sure to let the adhesive dry for 24 hours for a secure bond. If your necklace is longer than 26 inches you can get a way with making your necklace without a clasp.

    ------------------------------
    Necklaces without Clasps
    If your necklace will be 26 inches or longer, you can get away with making it without a clasp. Follow these instructions to hide your end knots and give the appearance of a continuous loop.
    Start with the Right Bead

    Start your necklace with the right length of doubled thread and tie a knot at the end. Then you can begin to string your beads. The first bead that you string must have a hole that is wide enough to allow you to string the thread through it twice. This is because when you finish the necklace you will be pulling the thread back through this first bead. So, you might want to experiment a bit to make sure your thread is the right weight to accomplish this. I have never had a problem using heavy weight nylon thread with Czech beads, but some semi-precious stones beads have smaller holes.

    Remember Not to Knot

    Whichever method you use to knot your beads, it is important to remember to not place a knot between the first and second beads. Also, when you get to the last bead, don't place a knot after it. When that last bead is in place, pull the thread through the first bead to finish the necklace. Then, place a knot around the thread between the first and second bead. You will have a continuous loop necklace, with no extra knots. Remember to set your end beads with super glue or clear nail polish so that your necklace does not unravel.
    ---------------------------------------------
    Swirlview Designs - Clasp Possibilities and Tips
    Fish Hook Clasp

    I think these are the Most Reliable/Easiest for any width of bracelet.
    I prefer to use these with a seed bead bracelet (size of bead is 10 or 11)
    I prefer to use the fish hook the most because there is no break in the fitting (the part of the clasp that is threaded and attached to the bracelet). This eliminates the possibility that the string will slip through the break.
    Selecting size of fish hook: Ensure that the mouth opening of the fish hook fits the bead size used at the loop of the piece.
    When considering what size of clasp you need, consider the width and length of the bracelet. I generally use large clasps for wide bracelets and long necklaces, and smaller for dainty bracelets and chokers.
    When using a large fish hook with large size beads, rethreading may need to be accompanied by knotting. A knot(s) can be tied before rethreading back through the piece and/or at the point(s) in the piece a knot would be nicely camouflaged.

    End #1: Loop

    Make a loop of 6 - 10 small beads circling back through the loop 3-4 times (or as many as the bead hole permits).
    Finish by rethreading back through the piece.

    End #2: Clasp

    Instead of the 6 - 10 small beads as above, string 2 beads, the fish-hook clasp, 2 more beads, then rethread back through the piece.

    For multi-strand string projects, there is a multi clasp that is very secure as it has no breaks in the fitting.

    Bolt Clasp/Screw Clasp/S-Hook Clasp


    The benefit to using bolt ring and screw clasps is their variety, allowing you to match a dressy to casual bracelet or necklace.
    The disadvantage of this type of clasp is that they have breaks in the fitting (the part that is threaded through to attach to the beadwork piece). For use with projects using larger string, leather, fishing line this is less of a problem, but for use with Nymo Size D thread it is very definitely a problem which can be helped by dabbing clear bond at the fitting break.
    When considering size I generally use large clasps for wide bracelets and long necklaces, and smaller for dainty bracelets and chokers.
    For larger string, leather, fishing line this is less of a problem, but for Nymo Size D thread is very definitely is a problem.

    Tips
    When attaching, wrap fitting with thread 2-3 times.
    Once the clasp is attached, use clear glue, clear nail polish, or clear head cement on the break in the fitting in an attempt to seal it.
    In addition, *building up* the thread with the glue/nail polish/head cement can add diameter and stiffness to the string.

    The above tips are attempts to make this clasp/thread scenario work, but there is no guarantee that the thread won't slip through the break anyway, causing the fitting to become detached from the jewellery.
    -----------------------------------
    rawpotatoeater37's Avatar
    rawpotatoeater37 Posts: 244, Reputation: 8
    Full Member
     
    #3

    Sep 18, 2007, 10:48 AM
    Another idea would be to use crimp beads. They're SO incredibly easy.



    Something like this, but there doesn't even need to be so many jump rings and such.

    Granted this is also using what looks to be Beadalon or some type of beading wire, but it should still work with a medium to medium thick NYMO thread.

    Maybe also waxing your thread first would help to keep it from shredding or slipping.

    Good luck!
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #4

    Sep 18, 2007, 12:58 PM
    The jewellery rings could be soldered.

    Jewelry Making Supplies | Soldering - Silver Solder Equipment, Smith Little Torch
    LisaB4657's Avatar
    LisaB4657 Posts: 3,662, Reputation: 534
    Expert
     
    #5

    Sep 18, 2007, 01:13 PM
    First make sure that you're using closed jump rings, not open jump rings.

    I use tornado crimps and beading wire. I like the tornados because they only have to be crimped once, not twice, and they're decorative. I use beading wire (Soft Flex Fine Gauge) because it's much stronger than string and it lays very softly.

    When I attach the wire to the lobster clasps I also use a wire guard because it looks better than having the bare wire showing.

    If I can take a decent pic I'll attach one here.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Basement finishing [ 17 Answers ]

I am in the early stages of laying-out my basement plans. There is a rough-in for toilet and shower, but not where I want the bathroom to be. I would like to move the rough-in pipes about 10-12 feet from where they are now for my ideal basement plan. I've done a lot of DIY home pprojects, but...

Finishing a Basement [ 5 Answers ]

Approximately how much will it cost to finish a basement on our own, with an added 1/2 bathroom, laundry room (not counting the appliances), a small wine celler, and a living area? I realize that a lot will depend on the quality of products that we use, but I was just wondering an average range. ...

Basement finishing [ 3 Answers ]

I'm looking to finish my basement which has no leaks coming from the walls. My question is before I start framing is there anything I should do to the walls like some kind of vapor barrier or something,or can I just start framing it out.

Finishing [ 1 Answers ]

Should I use waterbase or Oil paint to finish white pine?

Finishing a second floor [ 1 Answers ]

I want to finish my second floor in a fairly new home. Lets start slow and see how it goes. The room ~700 square feet is now vented to the outside through a vent on the Side of the house and a hole cut in the plywood sheeting leading to a dormer with an octagonal vent. Make sense? So how do...


View more questions Search