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    tress's Avatar
    tress Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Nov 21, 2005, 04:26 PM
    Lead joint
    I need help on the steps to pouring a lead joint
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #2

    Nov 21, 2005, 07:48 PM
    Not anymore you don't.Get some plastic filler that is made for that purpose from a plumbing supply house. You pack in the ocum rope to pack the joint with and fill in with the plastic stuff. I gave up my lead 20 years ago and will not go back.
    tress's Avatar
    tress Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Nov 22, 2005, 02:25 PM
    No I have to pour a lead joint for a plumbing test for a license
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    Nov 22, 2005, 03:22 PM
    "i need help on the steps to pouring a lead joint"
    Then you need a oldtime plumber that cut his teeth on lead and oakum joints. Hey! That would be me! Let me explain about lead and oakum joints. I'm going to assume that you have a basic knowledge of the tools needed to pour and caulk a joint. A short course: It's not the lead that makes the joint water tight. It's okum, a hemp like material that swells up when water hits it. The lead is just to make sure the okum is packed in tight enough to seal. You should also know what special tools are needed to yarn and pour a joint from scratch. A lead ladle and a gas torch hot enough to melt lead in it. Then you need lead and okum. Next you will need a , yarning iron to push the okum down in the joint. A packing iron to pack the okum down tight. If the joint is a horzontal one you will need a well oiled running rope to hold the lead in the joint until it cools. And last you will need inside and outside caulking irons plus a ball peen hammer.
    Take a length of oakum and run it around the inside of the bell/hub and tamp it down with a yearning iron. Do this until the oakum is almost to the top. Now take the packing iron and ball-peen hanner and pack the oakum tightly in the bell. You should be left with a 3/8 to 1/2" of space for the lead.
    Too much oakum? Take some out and repack it.
    Now melt lead into the ladle and pour the joint to the top of the bell in one pour. Let the lead cool and set uo. Now take the inside caulking iron, ( the one with the bevel looking out) and caulk the inside of the pipe using enough strength to mark the lead well, but not strong enough to crack the cast iron bell. Do the same with a outside iron, ( the one with the bevel looking in.) and you've just poured and caulked a lead joint. ( And here you thought the only definition of a joint was one you rolled and smoked, LOL.) Good luck on your test, Tom
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #5

    Nov 22, 2005, 03:51 PM
    They still have that on the physical part of the test ? Now I now it will be there till the end of time. Very good description of a how to do. Any body interested in my alcohol torch and tools. LOL I already sold off all my plugs of lead to the fishing sinker guy. LOL. Good luck on the test.
    tress's Avatar
    tress Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    Nov 22, 2005, 05:39 PM
    Thank you all I will try my best to pass the test

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