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    jchild40's Avatar
    jchild40 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 9, 2009, 06:23 PM
    Whirlpool top load washer lsb6300lw1
    I have a whirlpool top loader that does not like to spin. If I open the lid, hold down the switch while it's on the spin mode, THEN help it start spinning, it will take off. It does not seem to want to begin spinning on it's own.

    I did replace the clutch, hoping that was the problem. Before I did this, it wouldn't spin at all, even with my help.

    It does not have any issues agitating or draining.

    I wonder if I have to replace the gear box?
    pokefan7790's Avatar
    pokefan7790 Posts: 63, Reputation: 6
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    #2

    Jan 10, 2009, 08:25 AM

    Check to see if the drive block is slipping on the spin tube.
    jchild40's Avatar
    jchild40 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 10, 2009, 08:58 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by pokefan7790 View Post
    Check to see if the drive block is slipping on the spin tube.

    I'm an amateur washing machine fixer upper... not sure what those are, even though I've had this machine torn down a couple times. Here is a site that has all the subcomponents, maybe you can point out what your talking about?
    jchild40's Avatar
    jchild40 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 10, 2009, 08:59 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jchild40 View Post
    I'm an amateur washing machine fixer upper....not sure what those are, even though I've had this machine torn down a couple times. Here is a site that has all the subcomponents, maybe you can point out what your talking about?
    WHIRLPOOL | Model #LSB6300LW1 | RESIDENTIAL WASHERS | SearsPartsDirect.com
    ShadyLady's Avatar
    ShadyLady Posts: 98, Reputation: 10
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    #5

    Jan 10, 2009, 05:15 PM

    In order to get to the drive block you have to take off the agitator, the spanner nut, and the inner basket. You will then see a somewhat "bell" shaped metal piece that goes over the tube and agitator shaft. Usually the drive block is on extremely tight, so I wonder if it's something else. Since youv'e had the machine apart, did you put the spanner nut on really tight? This might cause slippage. It's a good idea to use a spanner wrench to get the nut on tight. It should be extremely tight.
    jchild40's Avatar
    jchild40 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 11, 2009, 09:20 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ShadyLady View Post
    In order to get to the drive block you have to take off the agitator, the spanner nut, and the inner basket. You will then see a somewhat "bell" shaped metal piece that goes over the tube and agitator shaft. Usually the drive block is on extremely tight, so I wonder if it's something else. Since youv'e had the machine apart, did you put the spanner nut on really tight? This might cause slippage. It's a good idea to use a spanner wrench to get the nut on tight. It should be extremely tight.
    I started digging into the machine with your suggestion in mind and quickly realized that I haven't gotten into this section of the machine yet (inbetween the brake and the tub). I also realized that I wasn't going to either! It's all pretty tight, and I do not have that wrench.

    So, I took the gear case off and started messing with the brake. By hand, I disengaged it and spun the tub checking to see if the drive block was tight. I figure that if by spinning the brake mannually and the tub spins without feeling "loose", then drive block must be tight.

    Now I think that I need a bigger & stronger spring in the clutch. I think that it is not strong enough to disengage the brake all the way and just continues to spin. I've emailed some part sites to see if I can get a bigger spring (the clutch came with one, but I must have thrown it away!).
    ShadyLady's Avatar
    ShadyLady Posts: 98, Reputation: 10
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    #7

    Jan 12, 2009, 01:46 AM

    If you have not had the two baskets apart then it's a sure thing the drive block & spanner nut are on tight. They are qute a tough job to get off!
    Do you hear a "clunck" when the machine goes into the spin cycle or when it stops? Or both?
    jchild40's Avatar
    jchild40 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jan 12, 2009, 05:20 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ShadyLady View Post
    If you have not had the two baskets apart then it's a sure thing the drive block & spanner nut are on tight. They are qute a tough job to get off!
    Do you hear a "clunck" when the machine goes into the spin cycle or when it stops? Or both?
    No I don't. There is no unusual sounds coming from the machine... that's what leads me to believe it's not the gear case (fingers crossed). That's typical of a bad gear case, right?
    jchild40's Avatar
    jchild40 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jan 18, 2009, 05:28 PM

    Does this machine have multiple gears for the spin cycle? I'm still trying to figure out what's wrong, so I know what to replace.

    It seems like it's stuck in a higher gear, and doesn't have the torque to get the spin started. (since if I start it by hand it will take off)
    ShadyLady's Avatar
    ShadyLady Posts: 98, Reputation: 10
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    #10

    Jan 18, 2009, 05:49 PM

    If you replaced the clutch I suspect the transmission (gear box). Since I'm not there to see the machine I can't give an accurate opinion and I'm not an expert. Sometimes the lid switch causes this problem, and you would have to know how to test it. The local library often has information on fixing appliances.
    Perhaps you could re-post your question to get other opinions.

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