[jduke44]

I just moved into the house in May. I believe the gfi outlet was working when the inspector inspected our house, but it seemed soon after it stopped working. We tried to press the reset button just in case the test button was pressed and nothing happens (meaning it won't depress or anything). Just recently I decided to change it thinking it was the outlet itself. It worked great for about a day then the same thing happened. When I installed it I hooked it up the same way as they had it. There is the gfi, one outlet and one swith for a light connected together.

Also, is it a problem to have the fridge connected to the that circuit also. Shouldn't a fridge be on its own circuit? Please advise. Thank you.

[tkrussell]

If you connected it the same way, it is possible it was connected incorrectly. If there is only two wires, black goes to brass screw and white goes to the silver screw, both labeled Line, and of course the green or bare wire goes to green screw. These wire should be live, so be sure to shut off the breaker.

If there are four wires from two cables, it is very important to know which two are the feed or Line. You will need some sort of voltage tester. Again the feed goers to the Line, and the other two wires must continue onto other outlets that need to be GFI potected, and will go to the Load terminals.

Of course there is a good possibility the new GFI is defective.

A frigde is not required by code to have it's own circuit, but it is a very wise idea. Needless to say,every of the, I lost count, homes I have wired has a separate 20 amp circuit dedicated for each fridge.

A standard fridge does not draw much current, ranging 3-5 amps, and works well on a 20 amp appliance circuit, code talk for the kitchen counter outlets/circuits. Kitchen appliances like toasters and frying pans use high currents, but are on for short periods.

The risk is if the circuit does trip,esp for those fridges and freezers in basements that are not used often, that you can lose a lot of food. Not in any home I wired will this happen.

Is the fridge GFI protected? Again a big risk due to normal low leakage currents that are drained via the normal ground. And as I think of it, this current may affect GFI device.

When you say it stop working, did the voltage stop and the outlet was useless? Can be a chance there is a switch ahead of the breaker, or can be a bad connection or bad breaker,

[jduke44]

If there are four wires from two cables, it is very important to know which two are the feed or Line. You will need some sort of voltage tester. Again the feed goers to the Line, and the other two wires must continue onto other outlets that need to be GFI potected, and will go to the Load terminals.

There are 4 wires. In the back of mind I knew I should have tested that first. The previous owners didn't do too many things wisely and I have to becareful.

Of course there is a good possibility the new GFI is defective.

Good point. I will test the wires first. If they seem correct, I will put another gfi outlet in and see.

A frigde is not required by code to have it's own circuit, but it is a very wise idea. Needless to say,every of the, I lost count, homes I have wired has a separate 20 amp circuit dedicated for each fridge.

I am glad it doesn't seem like I need to change this pronto, but I may do this down the line.

A standard fridge does not draw much current, ranging 3-5 amps, and works well on a 20 amp appliance circuit, code talk for the kitchen counter outlets/circuits. Kitchen appliances like toasters and frying pans use high currents, but are on for short periods.

This raises another question. I have a 15amp breaker on a kitchen light, outlet using microwave, outlet using a gas stove, outlet using convection oven, outlet using clock radio. It trips when using the convection oven and microwave. Provided the wattage is under and the wire is 12-2, would I be safe in changing the breaker to 20amp or should I do something different? I might dedicate the microwave to its own circuit down the line.

Is the fridge GFI protected? Again a big risk due to normal low leakage currents that are drained via the normal ground. And as I think of it, this current may affect GFI device.

Not on that outlet itself. This might be a good point.

When you say it stop working, did the voltage stop and the outlet was useless?

Yes, there was no more current.

Can be a chance there is a switch ahead of the breaker, or can be a bad connection or bad breaker,

When you say breaker, you are talking down at the Panel, correct? Either way, how would I know if the switch is ahead of the breaker? I will tell you the way it is laid out and maybe you can give me an idea. When you walk in the door to the left is a switch and an outlet combo and to the right there is the GFI outlet. The fridge is located on the other side of the wall nearest to the switch/outlet combo.

Thanks for all your help.

[tkrussell]

So if you never use the mike and con oven together , then circuit is fine until you can run another cirucit. Check the con oven, it may draw more than the mike.

Sure if the wire is #12, install a 20 a CB.

If the current did stop, then you need to look upstream of the GFI, time to trace wires, not fun when you don't have x-ray eyes. This is what racks up hours, and some customers don't get.

Yes you need to open the panel to test the load side of the breaker for this circuit. A switch is unlikely, but I have seen almost everything, if I can think it I have seen it.Finding it is up to you check all switches.

This is dangerous area, if not very comfortable and knowledgeable about electricity, best left to a pro.

Or it is a loose connection anywhaer in the circuit, takes carefully opening each device and check each connertion for tightness. Shut off the power first, never know what you will find.

[jduke44]

I will check into these. Thanks again for your help.

[Handyman2007]

The refrigerator should be on a dedicated 15 or 20 amp line of its own. The GFI will not work if a refrigerator is attached to it. Call an electrician.

[tkrussell]

There is no Code requirement that a refrigerator be on it's own dedicated circuit. It is recommended by standard trade practices.

And again, your answering a 4 year old question.