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    moshugo's Avatar
    moshugo Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #1

    Oct 21, 2006, 07:51 AM
    Kenmore dryer heats, but won't turn
    Relatively new belt... that's not the issue.
    Just installed a brand new motor thinking it would solve it... but it didn't.
    I've read that it might be the thermal fuse or thermostat, but that doesn't make sense. Those items control the heat and the heat is working fine. Does anybody have any suggestions?:confused:
    Kender's Avatar
    Kender Posts: 64, Reputation: 13
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    #2

    Oct 21, 2006, 10:21 AM
    Is the motor running?
    The heat should not turn on unless the motor is running. If it does then something is shorted or not wired correctly.
    On the wires going into the motor the two thickest wires should be on pin # 1 and 2 that keeps the heat off if the motor is not running.
    If the motor is running check how the belt is around the motor pulley. The direction of the motor should pull the belt from the drum then push it through the idler pulley then back to the drum. The old belt should leave a ring around the drum where it road around the drum. Make sure the new belt is in the same place and not in a shallow area that will make it too loose.
    Also make sure the rollers are spinning free. The posts can be cleaned and/or new rollers installed. Do not oil them or lent will collect around them and they will lock up.
    Hope some of that helps.

    I am referring to an electric drier is this a gas drier?
    moshugo's Avatar
    moshugo Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #3

    Oct 21, 2006, 03:38 PM
    Yes, it is an electric dryer. The wires on the motor are placed correctly (both on the old motor and the new one that I just installed). The belt is fine and is placed correctly as well. Could it be the start switch? When I set the timer, the heat comes on. But when I hit "start," nothing happens to the drum. The motor does not make any noise whatsoever.
    Kender's Avatar
    Kender Posts: 64, Reputation: 13
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    #4

    Oct 22, 2006, 05:54 AM
    Try this answer
    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/applia...ing-38013.html
    Andrewcocke does an excellent job of describing it

    It could be the start switch or the door switch. Some driers have a switch at the belt to keep it off if the belt is broken.

    The motor has a centrifugal switch that keeps the heaters from getting power if the motor is not spinning so make sure the heater is not grounding out. If it is then it will heat up from the T-stats to ground.
    moshugo's Avatar
    moshugo Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #5

    Oct 30, 2006, 03:15 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Kender
    Try this answer
    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/applia...ing-38013.html
    Andrewcocke does an excellent job of describing it

    it could be the start switch or the door switch. Some driers have a switch at the belt to keep it off if the belt is broken.

    the motor has a centrifugal switch that keeps the heaters from getting power if the motor is not spinning so make sure the heater is not grounding out. If it is then it will heat up from the T-stats to ground.
    That's great and all... and I don't mean to come across rude, but nobody seems to be reading my problem correctly. The belt is fine. The motor is fine. If it were the door switch, how would the heat still come on? My fiancee's stepdad fused the start switch wires together and still nothing worked. I don't understand how the most dangerous element (the heat) could be on while nothing else works. I have a feeling it is the thermal fuse (which is not directly connected to the heat element) could be the problem. Could it be hindering the relay from the start switch to the motor??
    andrewcocke's Avatar
    andrewcocke Posts: 439, Reputation: 22
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    #6

    Oct 30, 2006, 05:16 PM
    the motor has a centrifugal switch that keeps the heaters from getting power if the motor is not spinning so make sure the heater is not grounding out. If it is then it will heat up from the T-stats to ground.
    I actually think that the answer lies somewhere in there. Its definitely worth a look.
    moshugo's Avatar
    moshugo Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #7

    Nov 11, 2006, 07:12 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by andrewcocke
    I actually think that the answer lies somewhere in there. Its definatly worth a look.
    Ok. It ended up being the thermal fuse. However... now that the fuse has been replaced, I have noticed that there is a problem that may have caused the fuse to blow. When the timer is set, the heat comes on immediately (without hitting "start"). It stays on when you open the door too (again, without ever hitting "start"). What exactly controls the heat? What tells it to go off when the door opens? What tells it to come on when you hit start? This is driving me nuts!! :mad:
    andrewcocke's Avatar
    andrewcocke Posts: 439, Reputation: 22
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    #8

    Nov 12, 2006, 08:19 AM
    The heating element needs two 120 volt legs to make it operate. It doesn't need a neutural.
    In fact, it is only the element that uses 240 volts in the whole machine.

    One leg of 120 volts goes through your timer control, t-stat, high limit, etc. The other 120 volt leg goes though the centrifucal switch in the motor.

    A centrifucal switch is a switch on the rotor of the motor, as the rotor turns, the switch will actuate. This can cause a set of switches to open, or shut. On most of the motors that I have worked on, such as mixers, slicers, food processors, this switch is normally used to take a start capacitor out of the circuit.

    However on household dryers, this switch is also used to close a set of contacts for your element. The switch is also used to provide what they call a "latch circuit", also known as a "holding circuit". Most circuits I work on use a relay to provide the latch circuit. If you have ever wondered why you have to press the start button each time after the dryer stops, this is why. It is a safety. This way if you were to say.. open the door, the dryer should stop, if you close the door, you will note that the dryer does not operate until you press the start button again.

    So in answer to your question, I would have to say that your centrifucal switch seems to be stuck shut. This is an issue that requires immidate attention. If your dryer is not turning, and your blower is not blowing air, then your element could overheat and burn out almost instantly.

    I want to say that the switch is replaceable without replacing the whole motor. However, I will admit that household appliance motors look like they were made on another planet. On our mixer, slicer, food processor motors, the switch is replaceable without having to replace the whole motor.

    You could go to a local appliance shop and ask if the switch is replaceable.
    moshugo's Avatar
    moshugo Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #9

    Nov 12, 2006, 09:21 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by andrewcocke
    The heating element needs two 120 volt legs to make it operate. It doesnt need a neutural.
    In fact, it is only the element that uses 240 volts in the whole machine.

    One leg of 120 volts goes through your timer control, t-stat, high limit, etc. The other 120 volt leg goes though the centrifucal switch in the motor.

    A centrifucal switch is a switch on the rotor of the motor, as the rotor turns, the switch will actuate. This can cause a set of switches to open, or shut. On most of the motors that I have worked on, such as mixers, slicers, food processors, this switch is normally used to take a start capacitor out of the circuit.

    However on household dryers, this switch is also used to close a set of contacts for your element. The switch is also used to provide what they call a "latch circuit", also known as a "holding circuit". Most circuits I work on use a relay to provide the latch circuit. If you have ever wondered why you have to press the start button each time after the dryer stops, this is why. It is a saftey. This way if you were to say.. open the door, the dryer should stop, if you close the door, you will note that the dryer does not operate untill you press the start button again.

    So in answer to your question, I would have to say that your centrifucal switch seems to be stuck shut. This is an issue that requires immidate attention. If your dryer is not turning, and your blower is not blowing air, then your element could overheat and burn out almost instantly.

    I want to say that the switch is replaceable without replacing the whole motor. However, I will admit that household appliance motors look like they were made on another planet. On our mixer, slicer, food processor motors, the switch is replaceable without having to replace the whole motor.

    You could go to a local appliance shop and ask if the switch is replaceable.
    I think you were right the second time. The heating element was grounding out. I took it out and didn't see any broken coils... however, upon closer inspection, the plate that houses the coils has cracked in 3 places causes it to collapse... which has caused one of the coils to touch the plate... thus grounding it out. I bent the coil back pretty far (as not to touch the plate) and replaced the heating element. I hooked everything back up and had my fiancée look into the drum to see if the heat came on with the door open. It didn't!! The f****ing plate caused it to overheat which caused the thermal fuse to blow. Thanks for your help. I just ordered another one on eBay. If anyone needs and kind of part for HVAC, washers, dryers etc. you will find a way better deal from supplystuf on eBay than you will from Sears. The unit cost me $17 plus $12 shipping versus $58 just for the unit from Sears.

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