Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    nervous's Avatar
    nervous Posts: 47, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Aug 4, 2005, 08:36 PM
    Drywall corner technique
    Well, I am progressing with my seemingly endless bathroom remodel and have a few drywll/mudding questions:

    1) What are some techniques for neatly mudding and sanding the top ceiling corners where the 2 walls and ceiling meet? I have a corner sponge which is great for the long 2 wall corners but at that 3-point junction I am baffled on how to get crisp and clean results.

    2) when final sanding just how many sanding imperfections will primer and topcoat cover? I am always unsure on how fussy my last sandings should be with regard to sanding screen swirls.

    3) what is the trick for avoiding the little air bubbles in the mud on the walls when applying the compound, in either first or second coats and especially in the final coat. In a past project I mixed the compound thoroughly with a drill driven mixer and had lots of annoying bubbles. So this time I have been using the lightweight compound directly from the pail with no mixing or dilution. What is the correct way to prepare the compound for application?

    4) is there any benefit to using (or preference for) either regular or lightweight compound?

    Thanks as always!

    Herb.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Aug 4, 2005, 09:00 PM
    1) What are some techniques for neatly mudding and sanding the top ceiling corners where the 2 walls and ceiling meet? I have a corner sponge which is great for the long 2 wall corners but at that 3-point junction I am baffled on how to get crisp and clean results.

    They are a pain. The corner trowels help apply it. Get as close as you can with the sponge from all 3 angles. I usually finish by scraping with a knife blade.


    2) when final sanding just how many sanding imperfections will primer and topcoat cover? I am always unsure on how fussy my last sandings should be with regard to sanding screen swirls.

    The swirls shouldn't be a problem. Just don't leave any ridges. 10 times as much work to fix once painted.

    3) what is the trick for avoiding the little air bubbles in the mud on the walls when applying the compound, in either first or second coats and especially in the final coat. In a past project I mixed the compound thoroughly with a drill driven mixer and had lots of annoying bubbles. So this time I have been using the lightweight compound directly from the pail with no mixing or dilution. What is the correct way to prepare the compound for application?

    I usually end up filling them and then a light sanding.

    4) is there any benefit to using (or preference for) either regular or lightweight compound?

    Never worked enough with the light weight material to know.
    Ed_Mouse's Avatar
    Ed_Mouse Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Aug 4, 2005, 09:27 PM
    Answers to #3 & #4
    3) what is the trick for avoiding the little air bubbles in the mud on the walls when applying the compound, in either first or second coats and especially in the final coat. In a past project I mixed the compound thoroughly with a drill driven mixer and had lots of annoying bubbles. So this time I have been using the lightweight compound directly from the pail with no mixing or dilution. What is the correct way to prepare the compound for application?

    Rather than using lightweight compound add a small amount of dish detergent (JOY or DAWN) to the spackle before mixing it, DON'T thin it with water as it adds to the shrinkage problem. This reduces the air bubbles and makes it a little smoother to work with and also makes it sand as easy or easier than the lightweight compound.

    4) is there any benefit to using (or preference for) either regular or lightweight compound?

    Never worked enough with the light weight material to know.

    I prefer working with regular compound for durability purposes, it tends to leave less bubbles if you add a small amount of dish detergent and yet still leaves an easily sandable surface.
    kp2171's Avatar
    kp2171 Posts: 5,318, Reputation: 1612
    Uber Member
     
    #4

    Aug 5, 2005, 09:09 AM
    I haven't been happy with the lightweight stuff. I don't finish drywall much, but I had better success with thin "regular" compound.
    nervous's Avatar
    nervous Posts: 47, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #5

    Aug 16, 2005, 04:42 PM
    The "regular" stuff
    Well, as I approach the finishing stages of my bathroom drywalling I have used 2 pails of lightweight and as a test I went back to the regular weight and I have to say that the advice given earlier was spot on. The regular does leave far less bubbling and actually spreads smoother when worked less. I am convinced. I have yet to try the dish detergent trick. I did read about this but got scared off with no experience. I will add some to my last batch here to try that out as well.

    Thanks to all who responded. Your wisdom is priceless to me.
    Klein's Avatar
    Klein Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    Sep 25, 2005, 09:55 AM
    Hi Nervous -

    I was just wondering if you tried the dish-soap trick. I am about to start a small project in the basement and I am looking for the easiest way possible.

    Thanks
    nervous's Avatar
    nervous Posts: 47, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #7

    Sep 26, 2005, 07:47 PM
    Soap in the mud
    I did not try the soap technique in my last go round. What I did come away with however is that I do prefer using the regular weight (or standard) drywall compound to the lightweight variation. I found the bubbles much easier to control. Someday I will try the soap but just not this time. I'd love to hear back if you do and if it makes a difference. One thing I do know is that it's still not one of my favorite parts of any proect. I am still cleaning dust fro every nook and cranny and I took paine to control it. I think it's just not possible.

    Good luck and let me know how you make out.

    N.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Water entering basement from one corner [ 3 Answers ]

I have an 80 year old house, and have lived here 28 years. We have never had water in the basement (other than when the sewer cleanout needed cabling). Suddenly we have water (flowing the last 3 days!). No leaky pipes, no backed up drains. Before we knew the water was still coming in we had the...

Question Regarding Corner Shower Leak [ 4 Answers ]

Hello, This is our first house and plumbing is not my specialty. Please be kind... :) We have a corner/stall shower. Fiberglass with glass door. The bathroom was newly remodeled and the shower is about 2-3 years old. Ever since we moved in we have had a problem with the shower floor...

Corner shower leak [ 1 Answers ]

We have a corner shower that is leaking but not from the drain or the pipes. Blocked the shower head and nothing leaked the drain appeared OK as the leak found it's way to a hole were a wire was ran. This is a 3 sides and a bottom base. Any ideas on what or were the leak could be coming from.

Bathroom Circuit around corner? [ 2 Answers ]

I am in the middle of a complete remodeling and upgrade of my 80 YO,5' x 9' bathroom. Toilet runs ditect into the 4" vent stack and will remain in the same place. New sink is circuit vented back to the stack and will be moved approx 15" further away from the stack but extending the 2" circuit vent...

What's the meaning of Slide Windowing Technique? [ 0 Answers ]

Dear, Just not quite understand , what's mean by "Slide Windowing Technique" in network protocol, any relations with X.25 WAN? And how this technique can address network problems especially on network delay and bandwidth utilization? Also, can this technique overcome the flow control and...


View more questions Search