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    txlonghorn's Avatar
    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 8, 2008, 02:36 PM
    Heater starts up, but blower never comes on
    I have a gas heater that stopped working after only a day of use this season. The pilot lights up, but the blower never comes on. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #2

    Nov 8, 2008, 02:57 PM
    The blower for the air in the home or the small furnace burner blower?
    txlonghorn's Avatar
    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 8, 2008, 03:12 PM

    The blower for the air in the home...
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #4

    Nov 8, 2008, 04:27 PM
    It could be the fan and limit control if so equipped. It could be a blower relay if used in the heat mode.
    It could be the blower motor itself.
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    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Nov 8, 2008, 04:39 PM

    It works sometimes, so I don't think it's the blower motor. I was doing some research and found some people saying it could be the thermocouple and it usually needs replacing... could that be it?
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #6

    Nov 8, 2008, 04:52 PM
    The thermocouple part does not contorl the blower it only controls the safety control for the gas valve.

    First you say but the blower never comes on.

    Then you say it works sometimes

    If you do not know exactly what it is doing then I do not know either. LOL
    txlonghorn's Avatar
    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Nov 9, 2008, 03:56 PM

    Well that sounds right. Only the pilot lights up. The burner doesn't light up. So could that be the thermocouple?
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #8

    Nov 9, 2008, 04:34 PM
    If the pilot stays lit on most units that means the thermocouple is good.

    Naturally you did not supply the brand OR exact model so I used my crystal ball for that answer. Now if you feel like posting the brand and exact model number I can try to look up the exact info for you.

    You might also keep your post together so this subject does not go round in circles.

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...rn-172409.html
    txlonghorn's Avatar
    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Nov 21, 2008, 02:17 PM

    OK I have some pics that I just took and I finally found the model number I think... there was like 4 different model numbers

    It's a hw sv9500

    Here are some pics







    I have the valve off in the picture but it was on when I was testing the heater
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #10

    Nov 21, 2008, 03:19 PM
    You do not have a thermocouple in that furnace from what I see.

    That looks like a Quatro Furnace made by Consolidated Industries.
    They are no longer made I believe.

    Since the burners do not come on it could be almost anything causing the problem. Those furnaces were trouble prone. I suggest you call for a ON Site inspection and repair by a qualified HVAC company. Most of the parts can be replaced if defective but many times you have to modify or change the part to a universal style and that in itself can present problems.

    Here is the notice

    Consolidated Industries Bankruptcy Information
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    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Nov 21, 2008, 05:13 PM

    Yes your right it is a Consolidated Industries burner. There was a sticker that said that but another sticker said honeywell.

    Is there a way I can check if the valve is getting current? I read that it could be that it's not getting current
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #12

    Nov 21, 2008, 06:48 PM
    Use a volt meter and check the valve terminals/wires for current when the unit is calling for heat.
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    txlonghorn Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Nov 24, 2008, 02:05 PM

    OK just to update... my dad came and fixed the heater in 20 min.

    He said the heat sensor was dirty so it wasn't able to trigger the gas valve. All he did was clean off the heat sensor with sand paper and it works great now!
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #14

    Nov 24, 2008, 04:48 PM
    He must of cleaned the flame sensor, Good deal and glad you got it going.
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #15

    Nov 24, 2008, 05:47 PM

    That is a *shudder* Smart Valve. If the pilot did in fact light then the sensor was probably working fine. You have to be very very careful when you clean the flame sensor on a smart valve. I found that out the hard way the first time I worked on one.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #16

    Nov 24, 2008, 06:02 PM
    We have a few smart valve setup courtesy of Honeywell to play with. I do not care for the pilot assembly thing but cheap junk keeps the ball rolling.
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #17

    Nov 24, 2008, 06:06 PM

    The term Smart Valve should be an oxymoron. HSI to light the pilot. Pilot to light the burners. Completely retarded. Not to mention expensive to replace.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #18

    Nov 24, 2008, 06:39 PM
    Very expensive. I find it funny that people buy these high efficiency furnaces to save money but when they break down as they do all the time they spend more money fixing them than the old style simple gas furnace would have used for the extra gas. So much for energy savings. You might save energy but you will not save any real money since you have to spend all the savings fixing. LOL
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #19

    Nov 24, 2008, 06:45 PM

    I couldn't agree more and I have cautioned friends and family away from these. When the high efficiency units w/ variable speed motors came out a friend of mine was thinking about getting one. I talked him out of it by informing him that that variable speed, energy efficient motor costs about $700 and that is my cost. I can only imagine what these things go for after mark-up and labor.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #20

    Nov 24, 2008, 06:51 PM
    That is why I show my classes how to get rid of the variable speed and go with a strait 3 or 4 speed motor. I am sure GE does not like to hear that but when they want 1200.00/1400.00 to replace a motor/endbell electronics with labor and service call it is insane. Naturally this info will not be posted on this site or any other site due to liability. LOL

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