[jomck]

I have a Kenmore 500 Series electric dryer which will not heat. Everything else works fine.
I have continuity through the heating coil and the low and high thermostats. What should I check next ?

[Perito]

Do you have voltage to the heating coil during the drying cycle? Probably not. Using a voltmeter, you need to check for voltage and follow that through the switch that provides power to the heating coil.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

JOMAK - TO USE THE VOLT METER <{MAKE SURE IT IS CAPABLE OF HANDLING 250 volt a/c power] THE REST OF YOUR DRYER WORKS Off 120-volta/c power and the heating element operates off 220 volts a/c power ;; STAY SAFE:: GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS ;;F.B.E.

[jomck]

When dryer is running in all modes I have no voltage at the heating element.

[Perito]

This is probably not a simple fix. You've checked the heating coil and that appears to be OK. Something in the switching circuit is failing to close or the contacts have burned.

Does this have a mechanical or an electronic timer on it? That may be bad. There may be a bad thermal switch -- that cuts off power to the heating element when the temperature gets to a certain level. I'm not sure how hard it will be to check the voltage through the timer and through the thermal switches during operation, but that's what I'd try to do. Consider running some temporary leads from various points along the power route to a position where you can use a voltmeter to test for power. That way you can figure out which component is open.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

JOMAK-#A- THERE ARE TWO(2) tests that you do on the heating elrment. #1-
TO TEST THE HEATER FOR OPEN CIRCUIT- FIRST -UNplug the dryer power cord , set the volt-ohm meter to the RX-1 scale;; #2- DISCONNECT THE WIRES COMEING TO THE HEATER element;; #3- Put volt ohm meter probes into the terminals #4- IF the meter reads between 8 and 20 ohms the heater is giood;;IF it reads hIGHER THEN IT HAS A OPEN CORCUIT; REPLACE;; #B TO TEST HEATER FOR GROUNDING- #1- DISCONNECT THE WIRES< #2- PUT one probe into the heater terminal, TOUCH THE other probe to the metal duct around the heating element; #3- if the reading is high the heater is OK ,if needle swings TOWQARD LOW HEATER IS GROUNDED: REPLACE:: #3-I - HAVE YOU CHECKED THE TERMINAL BLOCK ON THE BACK OF THE DRYER <WHERE THE POWER CORD HOOKS TO THE DRYER?? IF IT IS A THREE WIRE- YOU WILL HAVE A BLACK(HOT)- WHITE (HOT) & A COPPER BARE WIRE THAT IS THE GROUND:: IF IT IS A FOUR WIRE -YOU WILL HAVE A RED (hot) BLACK(HOT), A WHITE -NUTURAL;; GREEN THAT IS THE GROUND: RED AND BLACK HOOK TO THE TWO OUTSIDE SCREWS<AND THE WHITE HOOKS TO THE MIDDLE SCREW:: THE GROUND WIRE HOOKS TO THE DRYER ON THE INSIDE;; #3- TO TEST TO SEE IF YOU HAVE 220 comeing into the dryer, PLUG DRYER PLUG BACK U P
#3A- SET THE METER TO 250 VOLTS a/c POWER: CLIP THE METER PROBES TO THE TWO OUT SIDE SCREWS ON THE TERMINAL PLATE( HOT WIRES):: YOU SHIOULD HAVE A READING ON THE METER OF 220 volts AT THE LEAST: IF YOU ONLY HAVE 120 volts ,then you only have 120 gioing in to the dryer ;;{HEATING ELEMENT WILL NOT WORK:: }#3B-ON THE TERMINAL BLOCK_ TOUCH the red probe to the one hot wire; should read 120 volts;; if it don't check other hot wire the same way ; it will probably read 0 volts , now you know which wire to check out in the main elect.panel;; you may have a bad breaker on one side of the double breaker;; if so replace; if you have a 220 reading on the two wires comeing off the breaker ;then you know that you have a elect .problem between the breaker and the receptical the dryer is plugged into;; check the receptical for a brokwen or burnt off hot wire; receptical may be bad check; ;; IF YOU HAVE NOT FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM YET : THAT MEANS WE NEED TO GO TO THE CONTROLS:: #1V- TO TEST THE THERMOSTAT- UNPLUG THE POWER CORD- SET METER TO THE RX-! Scale ; ON THESE THREE TESTS LEAVE POWER OFF AND METER SET TO RX-! Scale;; #2- disconnect the both wires from the switch;CLIP THE METER PEROBES TO THE WIRE TERMINALS: #3- turn the thermostat to any setting {EXCEPT THE FLUFF DRY SETTING: #4- IF meter reads {ZERO OHMS } the switch is good if it reads high it is defective -replace;;#5- NOTE -IF the thermostat is bad and you are replaceing it ,{BE careful(NOT TO KINK THE BULB TUBE as you thread it into place;; #V- TO TEST THE START SWITCH- #1- DISCONNECT THE WIRES<THAT ARE HEAVY WIRES: CLIP THE METER PROBES TO THE WIRE TERMINALS: #3- Press the start button#4- if the meter reads OHMXS THE SWITCH IS GOOD:: IF IT READS HIGH THEN IT IS DEFECTIVE _REPLACE:: #V!- to test the TIMER- #1- DISCONNECT ONE OF THE WIRES< #3- clip the meter probes to the wire terminals#4- TURN TIMER KNOB TO {NORMAL DRY}#5- IF THE METER READS {ZERO OHMS} TIMER IS Good ;if it reads high ,it is defective -replace; ;; I HOPE THAT I HAVE HELPED YOU OUT ON THIS AND THAT YOU HAVE THE PROBLEM FIXED: IF NONE OF THIS WORKS <THEN PUT A STICK OF DYAMITE IN SIDE DRYER : THE ONLY THING IS AFTER THE SMOKE CLEARED <IT WOULD Probably STILL BE THERE: HA JUST KIDDING:: IF I HAVE ANSWERED YOUR QUESTION >PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER IN THE ORANGE BOX BELOW:THANKS : GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS:: F.B.E.

[cmomoni]

I have a Kenmore dryer 500 series everything works fine,except the dryer is not heating up now,what can I do to resolve this problem?

[Stratmando]

If none of the above useful info helps,
I feel if there is voltage to the element and it is not heating, the element IS open.
For Dryer and water heater elements, I clamp and amprobe around a wire to the element, If there is voltage, and no current, it IS open. Keeps from having to disconnect wires from element.
Look for Voltage at the Element, then walk the Probes back through the thermals and see where power is lost.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Jomck- You have posted that you have already tested everything ,but lets go one step futher; sometimes
There is a third thermal heat protector { YOU will find it on the blower houseing ] check this one out also NOTE - if it checks good then there is one that you have over looked or mis read the meter readings on here's a list of what you wikll have to test and you can do sall testiong with no power, THAT WAY IT WILL BE SAFER;;LIST:- #1-FUSE BLOWN OR CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPED:: #2- Tempterature selector switch faulty;; #3-timer is fsaulty;;#4-centrifugalswitch faulty;;#5- heater element faulty ; {NOTE_ ON HEAT ELEMENT YOU HAVE TO DO TWO TESTS. ONE FOR g the element and one for testing for grounding; IF ITS NOT THE THERMAL PROTECTOR ON BLOWER HOUSING THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO GO BACK AND TESTTHE OTHER ITEMS IVE LISTED< with power off ;; now then if you need me to ,I can lead you through the testing ,step by step or I think what would really help you out is to GO to your local LIBERARY AND get a book on "MAJOR APPLIANCE REPAIR:: it will even have pictures and tell you what the meter is set on and what the meter should be for each test;; Hope this will help you out;; let us all know [how things turned outhave a great day and GOD BLESS:: F.B.E.

[kray1975]

I have a kennmore dryer that's running but won't heat up the heating element has been changed but just blowes out cold air please help me

[Stratmando]

I'm sure you read the above posts telling about the thermals that are in line with the element on the duct work that can fail and open up? Or no?