[Dave25]

Hi!
My Frigidaire (model # FWX833AS1) washer works great until you get to the spin cycle. Followed various posted advice such as check switch continuity (switch okay), inspected drain lines, and pump housing(all clear) and tested pump by hooking it up to 110vac(pumps great). So I assume it must be the timer. Luckily, I have a similar working but noisy unit. Timer numbers match so I switched the timers. Same problem- no draining-no spin.
I tried changing the water solenoids from the other unit. Still, same problem. So I tested the voltage going to the pump during the drain cycle- no voltage (although for some reason it reads about 10vac during the wash cycle.
Its not the lid switch
Its not the timer
Its not the pump (or the piping)
There is adequate hot and cold water going to the solenoids
What the heck is the problem!
Dave :(

[esquire1]

Not real familiar with Fridgidaire but will try and help. When you checked lid switch you did unplug one end of it didn't you when you checked? You could jumper around the switch to verify. Belt OK? Could be bad clutch. Post back with results

[Dave25]

Hi Doug,
Thanks for the quick reply. I played with the switch a few times as this seems to be a common problem with this model. The switch seems to be operating properly as when the washer is in 'wash' mode, when the lid is opened , the machine stops. Just in case, I removed the two wires from their connectors and jumpered them together. Still- nothing on the drain or spin cycle.
The belt seems in good condition.
Frigidaire and White Westinghouse are made by the same manufacturer if this helps you at all.
I believe that in this unit, the clutch is built into the transmission. But can a bad clutch explain no voltage going to the drain pump?


Dave

[esquire1]

I do know that Westinghouse use a direct reversing motor. A spring loaded belt tensioner/idler assembly keeps proper tension on the belt for pre-pump action. The clutch mechanism is intergal inside of the trans. Many times you can get an air lock in pump if it has a partial clog. Have you removed hoses from pump and checked? Do you have a diagram on unit to see where power is coming for drain/spin?

[Kender]

It sounds like a bad wire somewhere. One wire from the pump connects to the neutrals on the water valve and the other goes into the timer. Check for continuity on those wires. A connection might be corroded or loose.

[Dave25]

Hi Doug,
I have tried putting 110vac to the pump while the washer was full of water. Once I energized the pump, it worked quietly and efficiently pumped the water from the tub.
Any other ideas?
Thanks, Dave

Kender- yes;) I tried testing continuity between the wires from the water valve to the pump. The black and red, although very slightly corroded, were continuous, as were the white and red. (The machine is 4yrs old-max, and is in really nice shape.)
I even went to the extent of removing some of the coating on the pump wires coming from the timer, and got not voltage there during the drain cycle.
Is there anything in the circuitry, (other than the lid switch) that you know of that could cause this?
I know it sounds like the TIMER( to me anyhow) but I just took one out of a working machine,tried it, and it didn't help!
Thanks for helping,
Dave

[esquire1]

Try this. In spin cycle does the motor turn? Remove the belt from trans and motor. Then select the spin cycle. Does motor run? I believe this has a direct-reversing motor. If motor not running in rev, motor is bad. Is there a electrical diagram pasted on unit to follow electrical path during cycles?

[Dave25]

:D Hi Doug
It's working! I followed your advice about following the wiring diagram and then tested everything in the circuit for continuity. The motor wires ( although not the best method I'm sure, but I don't have any resistance values) that were part of the pump circuit were good.
Everything seemed good, so I went back to square one, the lid switch. Like I said earlier, the switch is good, it shut the washer off during agitate. But the wiring diagram you told me to refer to showed a lock that was part of the circuit as well (built into the lid switch, but with two separate terminals, for a total of four). I played with the lock and it started spinning! I guess I need a new lid switch.
Thanks so much for the help, Doug. This was very frustrating, but in a way, sort of fun!
Keep up the good work!
Dave :o

[esquire1]

Glad you got things going. Yes, wiring diagrams can be very helpful. Sometimes hard to follow but great for troubleshooting. Come back to this site often.