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    Joseph1430's Avatar
    Joseph1430 Posts: 10, Reputation: 0
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    #1

    Nov 11, 2005, 05:53 AM
    Low hot water pressure from kichen faucet only- 1 handle faucet
    Hi. My question is similar to one asked a few posts ago except this is a 1 handle faucet. I plan on maintaining the boiler from now on but I have to fix the flow problem first. I disconnected the hot water supply line to the faucet and the pressure is excellent so I assume the problem is in the faucet. I removed as much as I think I could inside the faucet, cleaned and re-assembled but it did not fix the problem. Maybe I'm not going deep enough? The faucet is a delta 172-178(I'm not sure of the exact one but it has a long swan neck). Even if the "innards"appear clean, should I replace them, and which pieces do I need to replace? Do they come in a replacement kit? Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Nov 11, 2005, 06:30 AM
    Delta mostly keeps the innards the same on all single handled models. Did you remove the ball assembly and the seats and springs and turn the water on to flush out the hotwater supply and the valve body after you checked for crud in the inlets? You still have a clog in the valve itself so if you get a strong stream when the valve's apart then it should be OK when you reassemble it. Good luck, Tom
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    #3

    Nov 11, 2005, 07:53 AM
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    Speedball, thanks for the reply. I did do all that and then re assembled, both hot and cold worked great and the about 10 min later when I tried again, both hot and cold had pressure probs again, so now I'm really confused. Also how do I know what drain to ust to drain the boiler? I have 2, one comes out the back of the actual boiler about 1/2 way up, and the other is near the front(in the middle of the copper pipes, so its not attached to the boiler directly)?
    Thanks
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Nov 11, 2005, 08:17 AM
    You don't have a water heater? Or is that what you're calling a boiler? Most boilers and all water heaters have drains that you may empty the tank from.
    Did you turn the water back on when the valve was open and flush out the supplies? If by boiler, ( boiler doesn't=water heater in my book) you mean water heater then it's the lowest drain in front that you should tie a hose on to and flush out. Let me show you how to flush your heater. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) and some white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). The whole thing shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. You might want to consider cleaning the screens on your areators if you have a high mineral buildup. Good luck, Tom
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    Joseph1430 Posts: 10, Reputation: 0
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    #5

    Nov 11, 2005, 08:33 AM
    Speedball, we do not have a water heater. The water enters our house(2.5 yrs old) from our well, and enters I guess it's a storage tank(cold/no heating element). From the storage tank it splits to a line to the rest of house(cold water supply?) and a line to what I think is our boiler(thermo dynamics s series oil fed). The basic owners manual says nothing about drainage in the maintanance, so I never knew I needed to. Do I/ Can I drain it? Does it store water like a water heater, or does it heat it on the way to the hot water lines?

    I did turn water supply lines on with all guts out of the faucet. Flushed for about 1 min and re-assembled and it worked fine. I thought I had it fixed until 10 min later when problem re-appeared. That's why I'm stumped again.

    Thanks
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #6

    Nov 12, 2005, 06:49 AM
    Good morning Joe,

    I gueses you're going to have to clean out the "innards" again and I would be paying particular attention to the galvanized pressure tank the well water first enters. Just follow my directions I gave earlier, "it's the lowest drain in front that you should tie a hose on to and flush out. Let me show you how to flush your heater. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run untill the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) and some white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). The whole thing shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Don't forget to flush it out every month."
    Mineral deposits that buildup in the bottom of that tank will be drawn into the hot and cold lines of your water system every time you make a draw. What heats your water in the summer when the boiler's shut down? Regards, Tom
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    Joseph1430 Posts: 10, Reputation: 0
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    #7

    Nov 14, 2005, 05:08 AM
    Reply to speedball
    Thanks again for all your help speedball. I did clean out the faucet again(about 4th time in 4 days) and now it seems to be fine(except now the sprayer has slow drip when the water is on). Our boiler is never off, so during summer it kicks on when we need hot water. I will drain the water tank in next day or so. I'm interested to see what the water coming out looks like. Thanks again. Seeing how you pretty much respond to all the plumbing questions, I'm sure I'll be talking to you again. It's a wonderful service you provide here, and it must take a lot of time responding to all theses questions. This is by far the most helpful and efficient site I've found(very current).
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #8

    Nov 14, 2005, 05:24 AM
    Good morning Joe,
    "the sprayer has slow drip when the water is on"
    Unscrew the sprayer head from the sprayer and clean the crud out from under the trigger washer and the seat. Regards, Tom

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