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    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #1

    Mar 16, 2006, 10:01 AM
    Alternative to sanding drywall joints?
    I'm gettin' pressured to put up another wall in my basement, and my wife says she saw on diynetwork (TV show) a guy showing that you can mud the seams as you normally would, then let it dry only 1-2 hours then come back with a wet blade and skim them... instead of sanding them: No sanding necessary.

    Anyone had good experience doing it this way, or know of people who have?

    I'm a skeptic and can't help but think "If this works as well as sanding, why isn't it the norm?"

    Thanks!
    kp2171's Avatar
    kp2171 Posts: 5,318, Reputation: 1612
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    #2

    Mar 16, 2006, 10:33 AM
    I have not seen this...

    Have you used a sanding sponge when finishing before? Had to do some work in a few rooms and I was very pleased with the results. I think I covered the seam, sanded, and then just once more had to cover again and sand... maybe third time touchup.

    Best regards.
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #3

    Mar 16, 2006, 10:59 AM
    Yes, I've had good results using a sanding sponge... I'm just looking for a way to avoid the dust and save the tennis elbow :o
    kp2171's Avatar
    kp2171 Posts: 5,318, Reputation: 1612
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    #4

    Mar 16, 2006, 12:04 PM
    Yeah.

    If you try it and find this other method works you need to post and let us know.
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #5

    Mar 16, 2006, 12:12 PM
    Sure can't hurt to try it on a seam. I will try it and give a "review".
    skiberger's Avatar
    skiberger Posts: 562, Reputation: 41
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    #6

    Mar 16, 2006, 01:34 PM
    Rickj, the "mud" the guy on TV may have used was Durabond or Sheetrock brand spackle. This is a powdered spackle you mix yourself w/ water. I use this all the time in my business. It comes in 20, 45 & 90. Each number means the drytime before recoat, depending on the rooms humidity level. Hence the draw back, if you mix too much and you have low humidity it dries extremely quick in the bucket or pan. Mix just enough to coat the seam(s) depending on what "number" you buy. You can spackle out this wall in half a day, and paint the latter half of the day or weekend. (all depending on the humidity level in the room)
    When the spackle gets where you don't leave a finger print impression, you can recaot even though it doesn't look dry. It feathers easily to where you can get a wet sanding sponge or a regular sponge and finish the joints.
    Once you get the hang of the dry times you'll never use bucket spackle again unless on big jobs. This stuff works great for patching nail pops, holes, cracks etc.
    Just a side note, if you go this way make sure the bags are white and not brown. The brown bags are topping compound and its tough to sand.
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #7

    Mar 16, 2006, 01:43 PM
    Yeah, Durabond is great. I acutally use it for all small stuff.

    This'll be a wall 18' long, 9ish feet tall, drywall both sides. I figured this too much for the hassle of the mixing Durabond... Would you use durabond for a job like that?
    skiberger's Avatar
    skiberger Posts: 562, Reputation: 41
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    #8

    Mar 16, 2006, 03:20 PM
    Yea, I'd use the Durabond. I'd install 10' sheets vertical. There would be 4 vert. seams each side, then your inside corners. With indirect light, vetical seams show less than a big oversized horizontal seam.
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #9

    Mar 17, 2006, 03:35 AM
    What's the max amount that you mix at a time? Can I dump a bag of it in a 5-gal bucket and mix it with a mud mixer?
    skiberger's Avatar
    skiberger Posts: 562, Reputation: 41
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    #10

    Mar 17, 2006, 07:02 AM
    I usually mix half bags at a time. Its easier on my drill & don't want to waste if I don't need a whole bag. This with the 90. The 20 & 45 I only mix enough I'll think I need because there is very little working time to get it on the wall.
    That mixer is the same one I use.
    Found it easier to add some water to the bucket first, then the spackle. Then add water or more spackle as needed to get the consistancy you want to work with. Adding water first makes for a smoother mixture, IMO.
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #11

    Mar 17, 2006, 08:21 AM
    Yeah, water first... I've learned that one!

    I'll try a seam with the 90 first, let it dry about 45 minutes, spritz it lightly with water and try the "no sand" knife method and see how it goes.
    DAVE231's Avatar
    DAVE231 Posts: 91, Reputation: 9
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    #12

    Mar 18, 2006, 02:43 PM
    Sanding sponges are great if used wet. Keep a bucket of water handy and soak and squeeze out the sponge every minute or so. No dust. The trick to a smooth finish is to wait until just before the mud has hardened and make sure it's not still soft. Try it-you'll like it.
    stew_1962's Avatar
    stew_1962 Posts: 255, Reputation: 10
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    #13

    Mar 22, 2006, 07:48 PM
    I've used a wet blade w/ readimix - helps to lube up the blade for the lesser-experienced drywaller to get a nice smooth finish. I like to keep a bucket handy with a sponge - clean up my blade every couple of joints. Seems I always get some debris in my mud, and it makes little "lines" in the joint.

    I've also used a big sponge to smooth out readimixed joints prior to sanding. Have to be careful not to get the paper on the drywall very wet - it will make it "fuzzy".

    I've used a sponge in conjunction w/ a sanding sponge as well. All in the interest of keeping the dust down - you can't keep that stuff contained, no matter what you try.

    Mostly, it's a sanding screen, though. Tennis elbow, and a shop vac at the end.
    glavine's Avatar
    glavine Posts: 895, Reputation: 87
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    #14

    Jun 8, 2007, 08:22 PM
    I Don't Ever Use This Method Of Not Sanding, I Can See Why You'd Be Interested In Not Having To Lol. That Is The Worst Part Of It.
    First Lets Clear Up The Myth, It May Have Looked Good On Tv, Buy In Person After That Was Painted Im Sure You Can See It,

    Its A lot Like Using Plaster, If You've Ever Done It,
    And Ill Tell You This Ive Taught A Few How To Mudd, And Most Don't Get It Quickly, The Diy Show, As Far As Im Concerned Is Advanced If An Average Person Can Is Able To Do That, There Is A Lot Of Hand Control Involved With Mudd Work,
    The Principle To This Is When Mudd Is Wet And You Trial Over It You Smooth It Out But There Are Ridges The Form On The Edges Of You Knife, If You Try And Smooth Them Out Then You Create Them Somewhere Else. So If You Let It Dry And Go Back To Smooth It Again You Knife Will Not Create New Ridges
    Truth Is You Can Get A lot Of The Ridges Out This Way, But Its Not As Good As Sanding.

    So With That Said, Here's My Advise, Get An Orbital Sander With A Hose On The End Of It, Plug It Into A Vac, As Far As Sandpaper Use 220 Nothing More Than That, You Could Go 150 But Its A lot Easier To Make Groves.

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