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Have you cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, including hoses, and throttle body? I doubt the problem is with the PGM-FI system. It's likely something more basic.

Don't have any other ideas--just go over everything possible and establish a "baseline" of what you know is good.

Never been involved in that process. Personally, I would rebuild or install the same engine. Many try installing other engines and can't get them to start for the reasons you mentioned. I'd keep...

Yes, I place very little faith in bench testing ICMs and coils.

I prefer installing an aftermarket ICM and coil in a Honda distributor housing ($135)--that's what I did.

I bought an OEM coil (TEC 30510PT2006) for my Civic from RockAuto.com for $43.90. It's...

First, install a new ICM and coil. Second, if the problem persists, transfer the new ICM and coil to a new genuine Honda distributor housing. Keep me posted.

Before buying a new ECT Sensor, I would advance the timing. This may be why your Civic is flooding; i.e. it won't start because the timing is too retarded and backfiring. Loosen the three...

That's it. The only two sensors that I know of that affect the injectors are the ECT and oxygen. See if my suggestion makes sense to you, since I have never seen flooding on a Honda.

Apology is accepted. My "reward" is getting a report if the suggestions work or not.

ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). ...

agireland, see if this link helps:

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

After spending a lot of time working with you, in the past, you never came back and told us what got your car running. It's a two-way street and I was annoyed, to say the least. It was you who let...

agireland, have you tested the glow plugs? They may be bad.

Check regulator and ECT.

duende08, ensure that the car passes the 3 basic diagnostic questions, in Sections A and B, of the Sticky. Next, clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing, and clean the connector...

You never came back and said what was the cause of your Civic not running.

Should be in the gas tank. Normally, you remove the rear seat for access. Be sure to disconnect negative. Battery cable first.
...

Have you tried hooking up a remote starter switch and seeing if your ignition switch is bad? I would do that first.

Have you cleaned the starter motor and starter solenoid contacts and cables?

It's a nonreusable fuse. It may even be wrapped in electrical tape.

Frequently, they are like a brown lump in the wire. It might be 1" long. You will likely have to solder a new one in the line.

If you have one, it should look like a "bump" in one of the wires going to the starter.

Yes, check for a fusible link.

I thought you were talking about the main relay. Now it sounds like you are talking about the starter solenoid. Read Section T:
...

Section A describes the K-Test:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563.html#post219451

Other than that, I don't know what to suggest...

Sounds like a bad ECM (clicking main relay)--run the K-Test. Also, check all under-hood and under-dash fuses.

Check out EBay. One other guy on this site just bought a new distributor, with coil, igniter, etc. for $109. It was an incredible deal.

First, I'd recommend having the igniter and coil tested at Autozone for free. Yes, it could be a bad pickup, but it's not a common problem.

All of this is somewhat strange, since you told me...

Sounds like you ended up replacing the fuse we talked about; i.e. the ACG (S) (ALT). ALT stands for alternator.

Does your CEL come on and go off after 2 seconds? If you can answer "Yes" to the 3...

With rpm fluctuating like that, I would test or replace your igniter.

Are you saying it's the wiring harness from the ECM to the main relay that's bad? What did you see?

Determine which 15 amp fuse controls power to the main relay. Remove it and make sure there is no corrosion. If you don't have an air bag, it could be fuse no. 12. See if this checks out.
...

I believe your problem is that the female connectors, going to the igniter, need to be crimped a little, because they get loose over time. Coat the back of the igniter, and the four male connectors,...

1. The high revving could have finished off the distributor bearing, which was possibly heading for failure anyhow. Could this have been the screech you heard? If so, distributor sensors may have...

Only if you disconnect the negative battery terminal first; otherwise, you will blow the fuse in your DMM.

Yes, that's how it appears to me.

You can pull the old switch apart and probably see major contact wear. It's a high wear component.

Do you see an ACG (S) (ALT) fuse on the under-dash fuse box cover? One guy I helped once had a...

It is this component:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=410&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Ignition%20Starter%20Switch

Here's the flow: battery to under-hood fuse box to ignition switch to under-dash fuse box to terminal 5 of the main relay connector. You say you aren't getting voltage at terminal 5, so it has to...

Did you turn your ignition switch to ON, before you checked for voltage between terminal 5 of the main relay connector and ground?

If you did, we are back to the fuse issue. Again, check for an...

With the main relay separated from the connector, turn the ignition on and measure the voltage between main relay connector terminal 5 and body ground.

Clean the ECM's main ground on the...

That Mitsuba you are ordering is an OEM part, too. Keep me posted with the results.

Interesting. Maybe you live in a more expensive part of the country and they charge accordingly. I don't know.

Yes, RockAuto.com has a Mitsuba RZ-0063, RockAuto part no. 39400SH3003, for $36.79+shipping.

Yes, just like mine. I replaced mine with a Mitsuba RZ-0159, which I bought through RockAuto.com.

I recommend replacing them every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first.

How many pin connector was yours?

I must have been getting your year Civic confused with someone else's. Your's is on the driver's side, like I originally said in posting #17. Remove the under-dash fuse box cover and the 3 screws...

Here's another link showing your main relay has only a 4 pin connector:

http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?RY187.html


I think you found the main relay and just didn't believe it.
...

Did you turn your ignition switch on and off to help you locate it? Have someone else turn the switch on and off and you get down and listen on the passenger side of the car.

Are you sure the...

Advance Auto, Autozone, Honda, and RockAuto.com, among others, carry them. Make sure it's a Fuel Injection Main Relay for your year and model Civic. Here's an idea of what they should look like and...

Yes, that's it.

It should be located around where the driver's left knee hits the kick panel. The Main Relay's first relay provides power to the ECM, fuel injectors, and second relay. The Main Relay's second relay...