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You might have a bad transformer in the furnace.

When you say frequently, every 10 seconds or every 10 min?

What your probably hearing is when you pull the molex the reversing valve is being denergized. Then the pressure is released. Most likely the unit is going off on safety pressure switch.

The reversing valve needs to be energized in cooling mode.

Jumper Y to R on the furnace and see if the AC runs.

I have had a few that I just loosen the set screw and give it a good shake and the motor falls out. On the tough ones I heat them up, works every time.

Look on the side of the furnace to see if it has a on off switch. Or you could turn the breaker off.

Take a temperature reading at a supply duct and at the return. Should be at 15* degrees difference or higher.

Is there an apartment above.

I would look for balancing dampers in the duct work.

We need a pic of the black box.

Are you talking about the inside fan or outside?

Do you have a voltmeter?

In AC mode I would want the blower to start when outside unit starts. There is no reason for a delay.

Well, there has to be a short some where. First check the stat cable outside where it comes from the house to the outside unit.

Yes, no inside blower you get ice. Don't run it with no blower. Could be a bad capacitor.

Double check the stat wiring.

If your talking just the condenser, not a good idea. Big problems down the road. If you live in a humid climate you won't be comfortable.

220 Volts, less amps, less electricity.

Thanks for the kind words!

Yea sounds like the motor is going bad.

Let me know if you need help replacing it.

Try taking the Yellow wire off the "spare" terminal and pull the black wire off the cool terminal. Put the yellow wire on cool.

OK 27v is a good reading. With the stat calling for cooling. Check the voltage on the cool connection and common. You should have 120V.

Pull the wires off sec 1 and sec 2 and make sure you have 24V.

Check the voltage on the heat and cool speed on the control board.

Have you had the blower motor replaced?

EM switch locks out the heat pump and uses electric heat in the furnace.

That number is for the AC coil. Check inside the furnace for the model number. Take a look at the inside of the blower cover for the flash codes.

Winter blowing down and summer air going up.

A capacitor with three connectors is a dual capacitor. One for the fan and one for the compressor.

No you don't need to replace that. Check to make sure your filter is clean. I wouldn't run it very long with the Hi limit bypassed. It's probably an air flow problem.

Can't find anything with that model #. Model # should be located inside the burner compartment. What is the brand name? I don't think there will be a reset button.

Rob, yes you have some wire's wrong. Call the guy that changed the motor, he probably pulled the wire's off to replace the motor. He got some wire's mixed up.

Sounds like you have plenty of return air. Are you getting good air flow any where? Are your filter's clean?

How many return air vent's do you have?

Have you been on the roof to see if all the access panels are on?

Try closing the ceiling vents.

What's the make and model?

What's the model number?

Drained the electricity?? Not possible.

Sounds like a duct problem. The ducts will be under the trailer.

Could be a bad solenoid valve. Check to see if your getting 24V to it.

A little more info might be needed.

Blue wire goes on O/B, white wire goes on AUX and jumpered to E. Yellow goes on Y. Green goes on G. You will need to set up stat for Heat Pump.

The attachment is not working.

Hey Tim , what's the make and model numbers of the stat and furnace?

Good one ma0641!!

WOW, that's an interesting problem. Can you give us more info, like make and model number of the furnace?

Make sure the damper is set to winter.

What's the make and model number? Do you have a humidistat on the furnace duct? Are you getting any water out of the drain line?