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Type: Posts; User: Dr_Spa
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Really? You don't want to rent a DEATH TRAP?
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This could be a very difficult one to solve. You may have something electrical, completely unrelated to the pool that ISN'T grounded (or isn't properly grounded) that's shorting out. Since it's not...
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Depending on the MODEL of Intermatic time clock, it could be any number of different things.
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Probably a bad heating element. Is the element getting voltage? What's the ohm reading through the element?
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It might be helpful to know what you actually have. Brand? Model?
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The NM-B would run to the inside of the exterior wall, to a junction box. From there ridged conduit with #6 THWN would run out the wall and to the Spa disconnect (I'm slightly concerned here. You say...
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The output of an LPG tank is relative to the surface area of the liquid in the tank. Only so much propane can evaporate from a specific surface area. A 40# tank will ONLY output about 40.1 k btu's...
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One doesn't remove the heater or element to test it. It needs to be tested hooked to the spa. Full of water and running. Is it getting proper voltage? If "no", it's a control problem. Is it pulling...
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Typically the heater light being on indicates the element is getting power... however in your case it's not (assuming you're testing it correctly). While the circuit board is a likely cause, there's...
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It's a good thing there was never no chlorine reading. You always want a reading for chlorine. Never do want, no reading.
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I believe that year still had a magnetic door interlock. There's a magnet on the door, that contacts a magnetic switch on the control box, when the door is closed. The door HAS to be closed for the...
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Romex? Code for wiring pools and spas requires that the supply circuit includes a ground wire that's insulated and of equal size to the other wires. Romex does not meet this requirement.
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Probably with the adjustment thing-a-majig
:-)
Sorry, you give such minimal information on what you have... ok, no information what so ever, there's no way to give any advise. Heater don't...
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Water has to be moving through the system for the heater to activate. There's either a flow switch or a pressure switch to verify the water moving.
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Out of curiosity, why do you feel you need a plumbing diagram? Typically one just digs into the foam towards the leak until you find it. Since most of the plumbing is flexible, a diagram won't...
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Sounds like an electrical short, grounding out the battery, causing it to drain it's charge.
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Determine exactly where it's leaking, why it's leaking, then acquire the correct parts to repair.
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The only thing you're going to be able to seal it with, is a new liner.
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Until it's empty.
A 2000 GPM pump will empty it in a minute
A 200 GPM pump will take 10 minutes
A 1 GPM pump will take a bit longer
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So is it the ground, or the neutral?
Doesn't really matter, it wouldn't be the cause. FYI, NEC code states that with pools and spas, ALL wires need to be the SAME size. While you can undersize the...
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It would be a violating of NEC pool and spa codes to use anything but a green wire for the ground (no, you can't mark a black wire green)... not to say you're local inspector would necessarily know...
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I'd imagine he's going to get it from the "real ocean".
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What you're considering doing would actually create a dangerous situation, possibly leading to a fire.
The intent of a circuit breaker (hear me out here, this is leading somewhere relevant) is to...
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It probably just needs a new clock motor.
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If you unplugged the flow switch, the heater is not actually coming on... any heat you might be gaining is coming from excess heat from the pump and kinetic energy.
The #1 cause of a tripping GFCI...
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Typically it's the white wire.
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The amount of propane a tank can deliver is directly related to the surface area of the liquid propane inside the tank. My understanding is that almost all portable tanks are NOT large enough to...
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Good luck with that :-)
Highly unlikely you'll be able to get a wire through with existing wires already there. It would be WAY easier to just pull out the existing wires, and repull than with the...
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Case be case. If you have wires run in conduit, it's probably easiest to pull the existing wires out and re-pull them.
If the spa does NOT require a neutral, you don't need to have one from the...
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1 & 2 have the potential of killing you.
3 is the correct correction.
Also, your GFCI breaker should have a neutral pigtail (if you're using the correct type of breaker). This pigtail goes to...
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1. Grammar, punctuation and reasonable use of the English language. If no one can understand you, and you're not willing to spend the time to properly ask a question, do you think we're going to...
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1. Punctuation
2. Clean your filter
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The round thing is probably a pressure switch. The element is inside the "hearer tube".
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You have a meter, and you have a fuse... and you're wondering if the fuse might be the problem?
I've never figured out how to say this in a polite, friendly, respectful way (my apologies), but, if...
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7 degrees in 1-1/5 hours falls within the specs of most spas. Without knowing the rating of the actual heater you have, the gallonage of the spa, it's impossible to do any specific heating...
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If this is a 240v heater, you can actually assume the heater is good. If it is a 240v heater, you need to test for 240v between the two lugs (any other way you test it tells you nothing and is an...
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Possibly you should be VERY concerned. Spa manufacturers water test their spas to be sure there's no leaks. Rarely if ever do they properly drain all the water out (of all the plumbing and equipment)...
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It almost certainly does have a heater... but the way these things are designed, only the low speed of the pump (generally around 2 to 3 amps) runs when it's heating. When you turn on the high speed...
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Spas are typically rated by the size of the circuit they require. As such, you needs a 20a GFCI and 12 gauge wire.
MA0641 is correct about the 125% rule, HOWEVER, your pump motor probably is rated...
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Do you mean 115 VOLT? If so, you need 12 gauge wire.
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12 gauge wire will handle a 20a breaker.
The purpose of the breaker is to protect the wire, by preventing too much amperage from flowing through the wire and causing a fire.
A 30 amp circuit...
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Flo indicates that the system thinks there's not enough water flowing to activate the heater. Have you properly adjusted the pressure switch you installed?
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There's no need for a platform.
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Without knowing the brand and model of the spa, all anyone can do is make wild guesses.
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Most 220v spas ALSO use a white neutral wire. You're going to have to pull an additional white wire.
The bare copper wire is a BONDING wire.
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Hydrogen peroxide will neutralize the chlorine.
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Have you tested the 2 leads going to the clock for 220v?
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