New light put in my Hampton Bay ceiling fan, but then after a few days, no light bulbs work but fan runs fine, why is this happening?:confused:

If the fan replaced a ceiling light, the box may not be sturdy enough to support the fan, allowing vibration that breaks the filament in the light. The best fix would be to reinforce the support for the box. Often they only have a nail or 2 holding one side to one joist. Retrofitting better support will be tough unless you have access to the top in an attic. Otherwise, it could mean cutting a big hole in the ceiling.

Another fix would be sturdier bulbs, a rough service bulb, maybe available at a hardware or auto store, or a compact fluorescent.

The fan did wobble a lot.
For a long time I used a compact halogen fluorescent bulb.
Then one day I took it out, thought I should save on energy bills by using one of those new coil looking 60 watt equivalent bulbs that use only around 15 watts of power and after about
6 or 7 days, the darned thing went out. I tested the bulb on two other lamps and the bulb was just plain dead.
Do I need to just replace the entire fan just to be safe?
It looked like when I replaced the fluorescent bulb, for a few moments a funny haze seemed to emitt from outside the bulb. It reminded me of when dust settles on a light bulb over time and then smokes just like a bug on a hot lamp for a few seconds.
If it were not for this temporary 30 second fuzzy haze about the light bulb I wouldn't be so concerned.

I had a smilar issue, but my fan was on a 3 way switch and whomever put it in did use a good wire nut for the neutral, so the fan initially worked, but no light and we replaced the switch in the fan, then we had light for a second, then no light. We found out then neutral had a loose connection, which ultimately worked loose more and took out the fan and other plugs.

Just a thought, that you may check if you have a 3 way switch.

Thanks, LFX.

Okay Lionfoxx, the fan has 3 speeds, and the wall switch is connected to the ceiling fan which has a single light below.
The single light has a on/off toggle switch on it.
Since the fan is a 3 speed, L,M,H... it most likely has a 3 way switch. The thing is, originally the celing light was a 2 way
On/off at either the wall or at the light, then we had the electrician take out the light and put in one of the low end Hampton Bay fan lights.
Thanks by the way for the initial feedback :)

Is the fan connected to 2 wall switches or one? Mine had 2 switches, so there was an extra neutral that needed hooked up. Your should have a neutral, but if it has one wall switch it still should have a neutral.

I would check all the connections on the fan light, if you know how. Turn off power to the circuit at that panel, then take the light loose from where it bolts on and check the wire nuts to make sure the wires are not loose.

Else, you may have to call the installer back to look at again.

Usually no reason to replace fan because of light.
One wire for light goes from ceiling through pipe, to light switch, If you have power at ceiling , should have power to light switch. Jump out light switch to determine need to replace. And if it holds 3 or 4 bulbs, likely switch, as 3 or 4 sockets don't usually go bad at once.
If Fan Wobbles, Maybe replace, or tweak blades to be on same plane, and blade tips
Equal distance fom each other. 4 blades make sure square.
On 5 blades, 3 blade tip measurements should be close to equal. 1 large measurement,
And 1 small measurment. Blade between these 2 possibly had blade strike. Correct.

If anyone is still following this thread.

Someone has confused a 3 position switch with a 3-way switch. Not the same thing.

Some of the new fans state directly on the box that a CFL (Compact Fluorescent) will not work with the solid state receiver (fan uses remote). A CFL may not get the clean AC power it needs to start. CFLs are very fragile. I like them but they don't hold up and they burn up from excessive heat in standard fixtures as well.

Another issue would be that one puts bulbs of a wattage in excess of the manufacturers rating and you burn out the light control in the receiver because it cannot handle the wattage. Most fans I have seen accept only 40 watt bulbs. The controller is designed to handle a current only for that much power.

60 watts was standard before they switched to candelabra sockets. Last I checked most receivers were rated for an incandenscent lighting load of 300 watts or 2.5 amps.

Fan with light & remote working,
Light and fan stopped - replaced battery
New light installed,light still not working , fan is.

Make/model of fan?

Does it have pullchains?

Ceiling fan remote controls - help and FAQ- Ceiling Fans N More

Check the pull chain first. I had 2 lights stop working all of a sudden (fans are fine). Thought it might be bulbs (but that would be odd that they stop working all at the same time) or a wiring issue but it was that simple. Must have had a power surge that reset the chain or something. Very weird but easy fix.

Hey Jcbsl,

This post started in 2005 and was last answered in 2008.

Please do not append to posts that are that old. :)

I'm happy that you added your thoughts, even if late. But how do you check and reset the pull chain? Thanks.

I had this same problem. I took it apart and noticed that the receiver/ remotes codes were not the same. I set them to be the same, put it back together and off she went! I think that the battery wire in the remote must have knocked one of the code switches when I last changed the battery...