Ask Me Help Desk - GE Electric Range

Help! My electric Range is 3 years old. The range timer and clock are working,however the oven nor the surface units heat up. Does this sound like something I can repair myself or should I be calling a repair person?

Sounds like somewhere, something isn't connected. Shut off the breaker, and open up the panel where the switch are. Poke around for a loose or broken wire.

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

You are about the 4-5 one I suggested the voltage detector to. No, I do not own stock in GB Instruments. It is just that I find mine really handy and don't know how I did without one for so long.

You should be able to fix it as long as it isn't a modern abomination with digital controls. Even then, you can replace an expensive module as well as a tech.

Thank you soooo much. I will definitely get me a voltage detector. I will let you know what happens.

I was friends with an appliance repairman. He has told me many times that these new "digital" (guess your clock display is digital ?), ovens work much like a computer, many small connections soldered onto a board, and when something like you describe happens, best to replace the board, quite expensive to do this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by labman

Sounds like somewhere, something isn't connected. Shut off the breaker, and open up the panel where the switch are. Poke around for a loose or broken wire.

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

You are about the 4-5 one I suggested the voltage detector to. No, I do not own stock in GB Instruments. It is just that I find mine really handy and don't know how I did without one for so long.

You should be able to fix it as long as it isn't a modern abomination with digital controls. Even then, you can replace an expensive module as well as a tech.

I second that. I have a fluke volt pen. I wouldn't take anything for it. Very handy, and worth its weight in gold.

I purchased a volt detector today and have tested the lines. I notice that the detector light goes on however as I run it along the wire there seems to be certain breaks. The lights do not light on some parts of the wire. I have also tested the wall outlet. My range has a three prong power cord so outlet is the same, when tested with the volt detector only one of the three openings of the outlet is voltage detected. Is this normal?

P.S. Thanks to all who have answered.:) :)

It sounds like one leg is dead. You have 2 legs, incoming hot wires each 120 volts to ground, but opposite phases, one 120 volts above and the other below. Being AC, they alternate 60 times a second. There is also a neutral that is grounded. Power flows out a hot wire and can connect to either the neutral for 120 volts or the other hot wire for 240 volts. Only one leg feeds the lights and controls. If it is hot, the lights and controls will work, but not the heating elements.

If your stove is wired like mine, it is time to call an electrician. A few last straws. Turn the breaker all the way to off, and back on. Doubt that will help, but try it. Older houses had a separate little fused disconnects for 240 volt service. If there is one for the stove, shut it off and open the cover. If you see a blown fuse, you are in luck. Replace it, and the stove should work. If both fuses look OK, turn the power back on and touch your voltage detector to both ends of both. If one end of one doesn't light it, again, bingo, a bad fuse. Shut the power off again and replace it.