The washer then overflows because filling will not stop unless the cycle is advanced in the dial. Is it a problem with the solenoid or the timer? I have stopped using one cycle for automatically timed and went to another way to wash in a different cycle; but now both overflow unless I turn the machine off and advance to wash, then rinse, then spin out the water.

It is your water level sensor. That is the sensor behind the water level control which has a clear tube going from it to the tub. It could be that the tube is stopped up, broken, or has a hole in it. Also, the switch could be bad. You can remove the rear cover to control panel and see where the clear tubing goes to the diaphragm on the switch. As water pressure increases from water flowing in tub a little water goes into tube at bottom of tub causing the air pressure on diaphragm to rise and close switch to start the cycle and stop water from flowing in. Disconnect tube at bottom of tub and blow on tube and you should hear switch clicking. (With machine unplugged.) Check the contacts with an ohm meter to see if they are closing and opening. If you hear no clicking and there is no hole in tubing then replace switch, or if contacts are not closing, replace. However, some of the newer machines have a pressure transducer that does the same thing. You will see it on page 3 of the manual at the link provided: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whir...e%20Manual.pdf
Here are some more: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Serv...c%20washer.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whir...%20washers.zip

Thanks from me too. My ge machine just had the same problem, and thanks to your answer, I was able to fix it myself. I am very low income and had no resources to get itfixed. God bless you. :-)

When you are not rich it pays to get a meter and learn how to use it.

I'm having the same problem with my washer. I examined the water level sensor and there are no holes, and clicks when you blow into it. Could it be a timer issue?

What did your meter indicate when you blew on the hose? It can click and still not be closing and opening the contacts, or the contacts could be burned up. It's possible that it's a timer issue, but the only way to know is with a meter. You cannot fix it without testing with a meter. You would be guessing and that does not work; there are too many things that can cause the problem. The timer sends power to the water level switch and from there to the water solenoids. The water valves can get stuck, also. Take the water valves and unplug them and see if the flow stops, or unplug machine and see if the water stops. If not, you need to clean or replace the water valves. There is a diaphragm in each valve that has a small hole through a brass piece with an orifice in it that the needle seals when there is no power to solenoid, closing the valve, but if it's stopped up it can stay open or closed.

Between terminal 7 and 15, had a reading of 0.1. Reading between 7 and 16 was infinity. Si checked the voltage going to the sensor as well and that was reading at 122. Thank you for the input, I'll check the valves next.

When you blew on the hose did it switch where you read infinity between 7 and 15 and between 7 and 16 a reading of 0 or .1? If so it would indicate that the switch is good.