Garage door opener works fine. Opens from wall. Need to know where the remote code is in the opener since the remote works fine. Took off cover and cannot find schematic for where the code for the remote is inside the opener. Need the coding for the remote or where it's located in the unit.

What brand of door opener? Do you have a LEARN or SRT button and if so do you know where it is?

It is an overhead door garage door opener 45A. I am unsure about a LEARN or SRT button. I bought the house 2 years ago. This is the original garage door opener that was put in the house when it was built in 1986.

I have not heard of a brand of opener "45A".

You have opened the back of the remote, correct?

Did you find a number of little switches that you set for the code? Called DIP switches.

This type of coding was used until a few years ago when what is called a rolling code came into being. That simply means you don't set a specific code. The code changes each time you use it and the remote and opener stay matched electronically.

Since I don't know the brand I can only speak generally.

Set the DIP switches to desired code.

Somewhere on the opener, probably under one of the light covers, probably on the side where the antenna wire is, there should be a button. You would either, press the remote and then press the button on the opener within a specified period. Or the other way around, press the button on the opener and within a specified period press the remote.

Hk - it's an overhead door model 45A garage door opener. The garage door opener remote is a model Heddolf HD-219. Inside the garage door opener remote are 9 levers numbered 1-9 and they are either set to +, 0 or - settings.

Both garage door opener remotes are set to different 9 lever settings. The right garage door opener remote works for the right garage door opener. The left garage door opener remote does not work to open the left garage door opener. BUT - when I set the 9 digit levers of the left garage door opener remote to be identical to the right garage door opener remote it does open the right garage door opener (does that make sense?)

SO - I know that the left garage door opener remote does work - it just has the wrong 9 digit setting inside it to recognize and open the left garage door. I cannot find WHERE in the garage door opener that this 9 digit +, 0, - setting is located so that I can reset the garage door opener remote.

Also - the left garage door opener does function properly - it does open remotely from the garage.

(did that make sense?)

Yes, that makes perfect sense. Set left remote code to something other than right remote code. Find that button on the left door opener. When you press the remote, then press the button on the opener, the opener learns the code from the remote. You don't have a set of switches on the opener that you match up to the remote.

You appear to have an OverHead, Model 45A, brand opener and a Heddolf brand remote. I found the Overhead brand opener web site but they don't list a Model 45A. You may have to contact them to get instructions if you can't find the learn button. Overhead also makes Gennie and other brand openers and instruction may be the same.

Meanwhile, remove light covers and look for learn button.

Were you able to get the dip switch settings for your remote. I have the same unit and can't seem to find anyone who knows the settings for mine. Thanks!

Here's what happens with the 45A. There are six colored wires on the printed circuit board and on the original remotes that came with this model opener.

To "program" these remotes, you had to cut the same colored wires that are inside the opener unit itself that are on the remote control once you open it. For example, on my unit the green and red wires are cut and the same wires are cut on the circuit board of the remote control. Voilà, old-school "programming" right there.

I am also trying to program a newer, 9 3-position switch remote for my in-laws (since I am "the technology guy..."). The previous Overhead Garage tech came out and programmed a newer, 9 3-position switch remote for the left garage door. I am trying to do the same for the right garage door opener.

I can't reconcile how the different cut or uncut wires coordinate with the 9 switches. I do know you can program a newer 9 3-position switch remote to work with the older model 45A opener since the previous tech did so, I just can't figure it out.

I put an email in to Overhead Garage. I'll post back here if they respond.

Any word from overhead door?

To "program" these remotes, you had to cut the same colored wires that are inside the opener unit itself that are on the remote control once you open it. For example, on my unit the green and red wires are cut and the same wires are cut on the circuit board of the remote control. Voilà, old-school "programming" right there.

I am also trying to program a newer, 9 3-position switch remote for my in-laws (since I am "the technology guy..."). The previous Overhead Garage tech came out and programmed a newer, 9 3-position switch remote for the left garage door. I am trying to do the same for the right garage door opener.

I can't reconcile how the different cut or uncut wires coordinate with the 9 switches. I do know you can program a newer 9 3-position switch remote to work with the older model 45A opener since the previous tech did so, I just can't figure it out.

I put an email in to Overhead Garage. I'll post back here if they respond.[/QUOTE]

Any response from overhead door?

Hah, yes, actually. Sorry I forget to back with y'all. As it turns out, you probably won't like the response, even though it is pretty thorough:

The model 45-A is by far the toughest opener to program. The 45-A came in 4 different frequencies, so we would need to know exactly what frequency your is (you can find this on the circuit board). Each frequency has up to 31 ways to program the particular frequency in (really, I'm not kidding). On top of the 45-A comes with learn codes, dip switches, jumper wires, or hard boards that are involved in the programing process. We recommend you bring the circuit board in along with the remote to our office and we get it programmed. This is the easiest. You can call our office and speak with John Malloy and we can attempt to walk you through the process. This could take 30 - 45 minutes. Last, we can get a service man out to your home. I'm sorry I am no help, but hopefully I'm a start. Have a great week!

Larry Spriggs
Sales Representative
The Overhead Door Company of Tulsa Cell: 918-830-0021
Office: 918-838-9901
Fax: 918-838-9647 [email protected]

I have a 45-A opener with the colored jumper wires. I purchased a 340Mhz remote with dip switches online. I was able to call OHD support at 800-275-6187 and tell them which colored wires were cut and they told me how to set the dip switches.

There are 6 colored jumper wires and 3 permanent wire connections that look almost like staples. On mine, the top wire was white w/ a red stripe. This corresponds to dip switch #9; the bottom is dip #1. A cut wire means the dip switch should be in the middle. A wire connection from 1 to 2 means the dip switch should be up, and a wire connection from 1 to 3 means the dip switch should be down.

Where did you order your remote from? I also have the 45A with wire arrangement you mention.

Thanks!

Your best option is to contact Overhead Door for support.

If you can't figure it out or get adequate help, there is an alternative. Several manufacturers have an add on remote system which sit's along side the operator. Genie is one. It's helpful when you have an opener without a wireless receiver or one that has failed. Just a consideration. But if you do by one of those, it simply wires to the same terminals the push button is connected to... it's that simple.