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-   -   Amana high efficiency 80 furnace (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=432884)

  • Jan 7, 2010, 10:24 PM
    Nikkor
    Amana high efficiency 80 furnace
    I have an Amanda High Efficiency 80 gas furnace. Gas only burns for about 4 or 5 seconds then shuts off. I have to reset everything but it just does the same thing... any ideas ?
  • Jan 8, 2010, 12:33 AM
    builderbob1

    Try a new flame sensor switch
  • Jan 8, 2010, 04:16 AM
    wmproop
    You hould be able to juct clean the flame senser instead of replacing,, remove and clean with steel wool or very fine sandpaper
  • Jan 8, 2010, 04:17 AM
    hvac1000
    2 Attachment(s)
    More than likely you will NOT need a new flame sensor. It just needs to be cleaned. Use fine sand paper or steel wood.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 09:38 AM
    Nikkor
    Thanks everyone but there is no sensor like the one in the picture above... next to the igniter (which glows fine) there is a brown boxlike thing about 1.5 " long by about .75" wide and .75" high. Could that be some swort of flame sensor ?

    Thanks again
  • Jan 8, 2010, 10:45 AM
    hvac1000
    Sounds like an old White Rodgers setup. Can you post a picture?
  • Jan 8, 2010, 11:05 AM
    Nikkor

    http://www.rooneys.net/html/photos.html

    Here is what I have... the igniter glows fine and the gas ignites but shuts off after 5 or 6 seconds... anyone know what this brown box is?
  • Jan 8, 2010, 11:08 AM
    Nikkor
    3 Attachment(s)
    Here are a few pictures... hope this helps
  • Jan 8, 2010, 11:27 AM
    hvac1000
    Post the part numbers on that part please. It is a White Rodgers part but they made a few different ones.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 11:34 AM
    Nikkor

    On the bracket is... 960-23 then on the right side of the bracket is... 11002801

    Can this style be updated to the heat sensor (stick like) ?

    Thanks for all your help.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 11:56 AM
    hvac1000
    I hope you do not hate me after this post but you have a (WR radiant sensor ignition system). Parts are NLA which means you are in for a expensive conversion and that has to be done by a REAL Professional that knows what they are doing. This is not something you want to play with. Usually both the gas valve and a new circuit board along with ignitor and sensor are needed to fix it.

    What you may try. Clean the flame sense area in the W/R part. Sometimes it gets all gunked up and will not sense the flame. The terminals on the gas valve have been know to get dirt or loose connection. Take those off ONE at a time and use contact cleaner or fine sand paper or steel wool to clean the Male terminals. REMEMBER one at a time then put the wire back on the one you removed. This is so you do not mix up the wiring.

    See if this helps and make sure the power is off while cleaning the items. BTW I have used windex successfully years ago cleaning the window on thet W/R sensor.

    Post back with results and I will search around for more info in my old catalogues.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 11:57 AM
    hvac1000
    BTW easy on that ignitor it is fragil and will break.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 12:07 PM
    Nikkor

    Thanks again... yes I saw that there is an update kit for about $250.00 but was hoping the old part was still available. The update just looks like a new sensor and circuit board. Looks like they use the old gas valve...

    I'll try cleaning the contacts as you mention... funny it was working fine until I put in a new induction motor. Old motor had bearing problems and it made a loud grinding noise until it just stopped and of course there was a new style blower motor assy needed at about $160.00. I guess it's cheaper than a whole new furnace.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 12:09 PM
    hvac1000
    Good luck with your project.
  • Jan 8, 2010, 12:20 PM
    Nikkor

    OK... Thanks again for your time...
  • Jan 8, 2010, 12:55 PM
    hvac1000
    No problem post back with your results.
  • Nov 14, 2012, 12:57 PM
    AinOk
    I had the same problem. Based on these posts, I cleaned my unit's flame sensor and the furnace is working again. Thanks so much!!
  • Mar 4, 2017, 04:06 PM
    chrisquina
    I had the same problem and history described by Nikkor. I replaced the induction motor just as Nikkor ddi and a few months later I am getting flame out and suspected part 11002801 just like Nikkor. I got a hunch that my induction motor might be sucking too hard making 11002801 think there was a flame out. I loosened the hose to the pressure sensor to allow more air into the induction motor and wolla the darn thing works again. You can visibly see less strain (pull from air) on the flames. I plan to just punch a few holes on the hose as a permanent fix. I hope this helps. In short, the new induction motor is drawing too much air across the flames causing part (sensor) 11002801 to think there is a flame out. The sensor is fine - fix the induction motor. Hope this helps. My unit is a Trane model TUJ100A960A1.
  • Mar 4, 2017, 07:01 PM
    ballengerb1
    Hey chris, did you notice the post is 7 years old?

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