Grand Am that slipped sideways on the ice the other day and hit a hard ice ball underneith the rear passenger tire. It bent the support arm pretty bad. (the front one of two bars that go from the middle of the car on the frame down to the bottom of the wheel hub. The entire wheel was extremely crooked after doing this. I got a straight support from a salvage yard and replaced it. Now the wheel is pretty much straight but now the entire wheel sticks out an inch or more than the drivers side. It is out past the wheel well. What would be the cause of this new issue? What would make the entire wheel stick out too far?

Other support or control bars? The wheel bearing? Something else?

Thanks,

Did you replace the wheel or just the suspension parts?
Unless the wheel was reinstalled incorrectly, you may have more suspension parts bent.
Can you take pics and put them on here?

I did not replace the wheel. That was not hit. Here are some pics of the area in question. The blue line indicates the bar that I did replace. I know the bar that runs parallel to it is slightly twisted but that would not cause the entire wheel to be pushed out. Another concern I have now is that the main shock appears to be leaking or something. It is all wet and I have a small puddle on the floor.

Great pics!
It does appear that the strut is damaged resulting in leakage.
Unless you have the coil spring compressor, you'll need to take that to a shop that does. When they inspect your suspension, they'll probably find the knuckle is bent also.
Many times, I've seen those knuckles bent from seemingly minor force. The worst part is you cannot often see the damage until you have the old and new, side by side.
They can check the entire suspension system, particularly that corner, and advise if you need more. If financially it becomes too much, consider contacting your insurance company, unless you carry a high deductible.

Agreed, very good pic descriptions, and also agree most likely at fault is the strut and knuckle bent.
Should be showing positive camber by the looks of it.

Can it be driven in this condition? Is there a danger in doing so or will it just make the damaged parts worse? Can a strut and knuckle be installed without a professional?
Thanks again.

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Originally Posted by tmeyer01

Can it be driven in this condition?

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Yes, it can, but...

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Is there a danger in doing so or will it just make the damaged parts worse?

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The strut's toast, and so is that spindle, likely, along with aggrevated tire wear.

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Can a strut and knuckle be installed without a professional?
Thanks again.

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Yes, if equipped with the proper tools and appropriate skills:
Do you have access to a coil spring compressor?
And air powered tools (makes this far easier)?
Have you or do you know anyone who has done strut replacement?
Plus, the vehicle's alignment will need checked and reset once all the parts are straight.

I have already removed the strut (much easier than anticipated) and it is certainly bent. I am getting one from a salvage yard today and will try to replace. I am guessing I will have to rent a spring compressor though unless they give me one with spring on it.

Monroe sells Quick Struts, with the coil spring already installed. They come with a lifetime warranty. Monroe frequently has promotions going on.

I replaced the strut assembly and that seemed to be the issue regarding the placement of the wheel. It all looks straight. I know I will have to have it checked for alignment but it is driveable. Anyway, now I have a pretty noticeable squeaking sound that I can hear coming from that area when driving. Any idea what that would be? Is that just from a strut assembly that's been sitting too long or something else? Any advice on that one? Thanks again for the help.

It's best to replace rubber bushings, when doing suspension work. Also, be sure to tighten all fasteners with a torque wrench. With air tools, you tend to undertighten or overtighten fasteners.

I hate chasing squeaks. It usually means something is too loose or didn't get installed correctly.
Tracking down what piece is the culprit isn't fun or easy. I'd probably spray lithium or silicon lube into each pivot point I've just worked with so see if maybe something was binding there.
You still have the parallel bar to do, right? That could also be binding and causing some noise.
Go back over each fastener and make sure they all are still tight after "seating" themselves a little from being driven.
Let us know what you find!