I pulled the high limit heat sensor wires off the top of the housing and connected the purple and red wire together and it works fine. I purchased a new sensor and installed it and same problem, flame goes out in about 15-20 seconds.

Also replaced the two coils with brand new parts.

Also checked the exhust hose and it is not blocked as well as the lint trap. All vacumed out clean. Blew the gas mechinism out with an air compressor

Maytag Atlantis

Model- MDG7600AWW
SN#- 315412462D

:confused:

Gas pressure to high or improper orifice used if converted from natural gas to propane.

Does main burner come on for 20 sec or just the pilot?

The igniter glows red hot, the gas ignites and blows hot with big flame for about 15-20 seconds and "click", I hear a click and the gas shuts off. Then it tries to light again every couple minutes, glowing igniter and the gas will not light up, the igniter eventually de-glows and a couple minutes later same happens again.

Chuck

This problem seems to be a real head scratcher. I have the same problem with my Maytag LDG7334AAE Gas Dryer, have checked all thermostats and sensors for continuity... all have continuity. Also, I checked the coils on the solenoid with my multimeter and they tested perfect. I had previously bought the coils, so will try replacing them tomorrow, since I cannot take them back to the parts wholesaler. Only other thing I can think can be wrong might be the gas valve. A fairly expensive part. Everyone contributing has been pretty helpful, but I have not yet found anyone online that has actually fixed this problem, so maybe I will be the first! Will get back with results in about 6-8 hours. - DJ

Well, I put in the new coils, and the problem is exactly the same. I am at the moment, stumped. This seems to be a fairly prevalent problem with gas dryers it seems, based on the number of folks looking for a solution. Appreciate anyone who has another idea. Will let you know if I solve it on my own. DJ

There are 3 basic possibilities:
1. Not enough cooling. Basically the sensor bulb is getting too hot and it shuts down because of that. It could be lint around the bulb, or the exhaust fan has issues such as dirt in the bearing or the belt slipping etc.

2. The burner head, the thing that looks like a cobra is getting too hot and deforming, thus it deforms and the heat that's supposed to be deflected onto the thermocouple that opens the gas valve gets too cool.

3. The springs in the gas valve itself.

#2 is a stumper, but if you can easily bend the head after it immediately shuts off, you nailed it.

Now remember all of the issues can be at play.

There are four big reasons this could happen:

1. The gas burner is shutting down because of the duct safety thermocouple. This could be from lint or poor airflow due to bearing issues.

2. The burner head is supposed to direct some of the heat from the burner to the main gas valve thermocouple. If that cobra head is very easily bent just after turn off, you nailed it.

3. Gas valve springs.

4. Improper conversion from gas/propane.

PS: I almost didn't repost. The Forum software looses your answer when you login. That sucks.

Did anyone figure out what the problem was? I'm having the same issue with my Maytag. Flame lights then goes out after a few seconds. I replaced the coils, flame sensor and hi-limit thermostat. All resistances check OK. I'm at a loss.

Model # or link to exploded view? Approximate age of dryer.

Which flame? Pilot or burner?

Hi, thanks for the reply. It is a Maytag (Samsung) MDG6700AWW. Only about 5 years old. I used the service pamphlet attached to the back of the dryer to determine and check the resistance of the components. I was operating the unit with the front panel and door off. I read that gas dryers are very sensative to air flow. I will reinstall the panels and door tonight and see what happens.
Maytag Dryer MDG6700AWW | PartSelect

John

First and foremost, make sure the duct is clean. Check for a nest in the dryer vent. You could rule out the ducting easily if you operated the dryer for a short time with the duct disconnected in a ventilated room.

If I would put my bet on anything after making sure the duct is clean, it would be #14 the radient flame sensor.

The blower is directly driven, so short of a loose pulley, I don't see any issues there.

If there are checks for the radient heat sensor, use them.

Don't buy anything until you check the air path for obstructions or lint.

The hi-limit switch is probably easy to check if that's the problem. I don't have a wiring diagram handy and it could be on some part of the dryer.

I would expect the high limit to be a contact closure or open at either an AC or LOGIC level. Placing a voltmeter across the contacts and waiting for the dryer to stop will tell you if it's working.

The Radiant Flame sensor, not sure how to check without a wiring diagram. It looks like a contact closure/open. See: Whirlpool 338906 - Radiant Flame Sensor | PartSelect "fixes a dryer that shuts off too soon".