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  • Feb 1, 2006, 07:01 PM
    camaro69
    Well water stops then goes
    When I turn on my water it starts to come out then no water then the water comes out slow till it reaches full pressure I changed the pressure switch my other one was bad now I have this problem could it be a bad pressure switch (I got it at home depot) or could it be the air in the tank what should the tank air pressure be Thanks Tom :cool:
  • Feb 1, 2006, 09:04 PM
    extreme42583
    Could be... are you on well or city?
  • Feb 1, 2006, 09:24 PM
    stew_1962
    How much rain you had?
  • Feb 2, 2006, 01:14 AM
    PalmMP3
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by extreme42583
    could be...are you on well or city?

    I hate to be so blunt, but I think you'd better re-read the title of this thread. Sorry! :D:D:D
  • Feb 2, 2006, 07:24 AM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by camaro69
    when I turn on my water it starts to come out then no water then the water comes out slow till it reaches full pressure I changed the pressure switch my other one was bad now I have this problem could it be a bad pressure switch (I got it at home depot) or could it be the air in the tank what should the tank air pressure be Thanks Tom :cool:

    This doesn't sound like a bad pressure switch to me. The first thing that I would look at is the check valve. If the check valve were faulty it would allow the water in the suction pipe to drain back down into the well.
    When you opened a faucet the water remaining in the imprller housing would come out strong and weaken as the pump was pulling water up from the well until it reached full pressure. That's my take on the pressure loss.

    Let me explain the function of a bladder tank. Pressure and bladder tanks provide a air cushion that produces water pressure in your system so your pump doesn't kick on every time you draw a glass of water. A bladder tank has a neoprene membrane in the center. As the pump puts water into the bottom half of the bladder tank the membrane compresses the air in the top half. When the pressure reaches the cut off point in the control box the pump shuts down. However you still have between 40 to 50 pounds of pressure pushing the water out to your system. As the pressure drops in the tank when you make a draw the pump kicks on and everything starts over again.
    To check, take something metal and start rapping at the bottom of the tank and work upwards. You will hear a "clunk" in the bottom half full of water. On the upper half you should hear a "clink" because the upper half should have nothing but air in it. IF the sound doesn't change or changes close to to tank top then the bladder tank must be replaced. Your air setting on the tank should be 2 pounds UNDER the cut in point in the pressure control box. If your pressure control has a 20 PSI cut in and 40 PSI cut out the tank pressure should read 18 PSI. This should be done with the pump off and no pressure in the system. In other words shut the pump off at the breaker box, open a faucet and drain the system down. Then you may set the pressure in the bladder tank. Good luck, Tom
  • Feb 2, 2006, 05:29 PM
    camaro69
    Thanks speedball1 I'll have to check it out this weekend

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