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  • Sep 6, 2011, 04:06 PM
    Symmons temptrol diverter very difficult to turn
    My Symmons temptrol model A has an issue with diverter, two actually, it is very difficult to turn, and even when I turn it as far as I can to the shower setting no water comes out of the shower. I have looked around the site and the image that keeps being shown for the temptrol is slightly different than mine. There are two screws beside the diverter. I am not sure if I should be looking to replace part of the diverter or the spindle? Any help would be appreciated.
  • Sep 6, 2011, 04:11 PM
    1 Attachment(s)
    Hi Nzeeben

    Those two additional screws are integral shutoff screws (T-52)... see image. Here, when you work on the valve you would simply close these screws clockwise to shut water flow off to the valve and then you can work on the unit without having to shut water to the rest of the house, OK?

    In terms of the tightness... you could try removing the handle and see if you can loosen the T-17 packing nut... see if that helps. If that fails to help, you can be pretty sure that you have an issue with the entire spindle assembly (TA-10) and that will need to be replaced. If the valve is old (<10 years), you will also need to replace the hot and cold seats (TA-4 kit) using the seat removal tools (T-35A, T-35B).

    Be sure to pulse the water on for a second or two when you have everything disassembled to clear the valve/lines of any sediment build up.

    More questions? Let me know, OK?

  • Sep 6, 2011, 04:46 PM
    1 Attachment(s)
    The valve I believe is original to the house, so it sounds like I will need to be replacing the spindle. I've included a photo, those screws were already tight clockwise and the valve still has water flow so I am assuming they are not shutoffs. So without the shutoffs I will likely need to shut off the water supply to house before attempting the spindle replacement.
  • Sep 6, 2011, 07:35 PM
    Definitely an older model of symmons valve and as you said, those screws aren't shutoffs, they are actually just screws holding the diverter spindle (TA-25A, or TA-25B) assembly in place.

    It sounds to me like the issue is at the diverter handle (T-30) or the diverter spindle (TA-25A or TA-25B) and you aren't able to divert the water to the shower head.. right? If so, check that the handle rotates the actual spindle... if it does then the diverter spindle may be the issue. If the handle doesn't spin the diverter spindle, then the diverter handle needs to be replaced.

    Check it out and let me know what you find, OK?

    PS: The TA-25A is the diverter spindle for the combination tub and shower valve. The TA-25B is the diverter spindle for a shower only valve... ;)
  • Sep 7, 2011, 12:06 PM
    The handle will rotate the diverter, but only maybe 3/4 towards the shower setting, beyond that it gets pretty much impossible to turn. Once I remove the screws does the diverter assembly pull out somehow?
  • Sep 7, 2011, 03:00 PM
    Yup! Remove the screws and the brass plate and brass end plate (keep these safe) and then you will need a 5/16" x 3" LAG BOLT to remove the DIVERTER SPINDLE itself. Although the bolt sounds wrong it is exactly what Symmons recommends.

    You will need to screw the 5/16" lag bolt into the spindle and then give a strong YANK to remove the old spindle (hold valve body here). To install the new spindle you will need to grease (silicone grease) the new spindle at the O-RING to insert it into the valve body... push hard to seat it. Then install the new plastic end plate and the old brass plate and screws to finish. Test all.

    Back to you...
  • Sep 7, 2011, 06:32 PM
    Ok Mark,

    I laid down in the tub put my feet on both sides of the valve to hold it, grabbed the spindle with a set of channel locks and yanked. No dice, the spindle didn't budge. What do you have for me?
  • Sep 8, 2011, 04:58 AM
    Did you screw the lag bolt into the spindle? If not, you have to use a lag screw to remove the spindle.

    If you screwed the lag bolt in and are having this issue then all I can tell you is to push in and then pull out repeatedly... should come soon enough.

    If that continues to fail then unscrew the lag bolt a bit... you may have overtightened it and now the spindle is crushed into the sides of the valve making it as hard as it is.

    It should come out with a little more persuasion!

    Good luck!
  • Sep 12, 2011, 04:52 PM
    Mark I have resorted so far as to buy a piece of square bar stock I drilled a hole through the bar stock, threaded the lag bolt through the bar into diverter. I have yanked and yanked, this puppy doesn't want to come out. You sure these isn't something else that could be holding it in? If I disassemble the top half of the valve to replace the hot & cold seats etc will it that help ease my pain perhaps? I am about ready to call it and have a plumber come replace the whole valve.
  • Sep 13, 2011, 02:15 PM
    Nothing holding the diverter in place... just o-rings!

    One other option since you are considering replacing the entire valve would be to drill the diverter out using a succession of drill bits until you are left with a thin-walled diverter and then fold it in on itself and pull it out.

    Do NOT drill the entire depth of the diverter... drill about 3/4 of the way in and then as you get it real thin try the lag bolt again... should yank out now... ;)

    Back to you...
  • Oct 25, 2011, 11:12 AM
    I finally got around to finishing this off, I drilled out the diverter, it was wedged in there good. Everything is working great, thanks for the help Mark!

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