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WannaBplumber · Mar 23, 2011, 04:43 AM

I have just installed a new valve, and I'm waiting for the device to go behind it (therefore no back pressure). Trouble is when fully shut it still lets out about a gallon in 7 hours. Does anyone know if this is normal or a defective valve?

massplumber2008 · Mar 23, 2011, 05:29 AM

Hi Wannab...

The saddle valve is definitely defective.

For what it's worth, saddle valves aren't even allowed to be installed anywhere that I know of... ;) Here, they may be sold almost everywhere, but no plumbing codes allow them to be installed anymore and for good reason, too... they leak. Interestingly, they don't usually leak the way your valve is leaking, but instead leak from the seal under the saddle valve drying up over time, so these are famous for drying up and flooding the place when know one is home... *UGH*.

At a minimum, replace the defective saddle valve with a new one... should be a positive shutoff when shut off. I would, however, strongly suggest that you remove the defective valve and get a proper ball valve type shutoff installed so you won't ever have to think about this again!

More questions? Just let us know, OK?

Mark

WannaBplumber · Mar 23, 2011, 06:01 AM

I still need to go to the flexible hose, I should be able to find a ball valve that allows from copper to hose right?

massplumber2008 · Mar 23, 2011, 06:27 AM

A ball valve would require that you add a copper x threaded hose adapter.

You may be better here to purchase a brasscraft or watts shutoff valve that will allow you to go directly to the hose. In the picture below I present a 5/8" compression (fits 1/2" copper tubing) x 3/8" compression angle stop. If you are going to be installing an ice maker unit then you would need the 5/8" compression x 1/4" compression stop.

Also note here that you can purchase these so you can solder them too although the compression type is really cool as there is no soldering required... just two wrenches is all you need with the compression type, OK? Read instructions on package and do NOT overtighten these... ;)

More questions? Just let me know...

Mark

WannaBplumber · Mar 23, 2011, 07:01 AM

I just picked up a mini-ball valve kit: 5/8 OD compression x 5/8 OD comp x 1/4 OD valve.

(see attached)

Looks easy. Thanks for your help.

WannaBplumber · Mar 23, 2011, 07:43 AM

One more thing: Is a brass insert (inside the tubing) always required for the insertion of plastic type tubing?

massplumber2008 · Mar 23, 2011, 07:54 AM

Yes... for plastic tubing use the insert, for sure! Don't forget to add pipe dope or teflon tape to the threaded fitting.

DO NOT use pipe dope or teflon tape on the compression fittings/threads, OK?

Mark

WannaBplumber · Mar 23, 2011, 08:02 AM

Got it, that's how I did it. I have used the compression fittings in the past for putting in shut off valves under sinks. They work great, especially in a tight space where you won't/can't solder.

Unbelievable that they still sell these lousy saddle valves, when for $10 more I bought the mini ball valve kit. Cheap peace of mind for sure!

massplumber2008 · Mar 23, 2011, 08:06 AM

It's even creepier when the plumbing inspector shows up to inspect a job and tells them to rip it out, for sure!

Have a great day!

WannaBplumber · Mar 23, 2011, 08:25 AM

Thanks for all your help. Just for kicks I thought I'd show the finished product if anyone else ever wants to see

massplumber2008 · Mar 23, 2011, 09:49 AM

Always appreciate an update, for sure!