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    mutoj's Avatar
    mutoj Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 13, 2009, 02:59 PM
    Losing water pressure to house from well
    Losing water pressure in the house on well
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #2

    Jul 13, 2009, 06:08 PM

    Mutoj, you are truly a man of few words. So, let's ask a few questions.

    1. What is the pressure at the well?
    2. Is this constant or intermittent?
    3. Are you only losing pressure in the house, so that there is still pressure at the pressure tank but not in the house?
    mutoj's Avatar
    mutoj Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 17, 2009, 08:05 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jlisenbe View Post
    Mutoj, you are truly a man of few words. So, let's ask a few questions.

    1. What is the pressure at the well?
    2. Is this constant or intermittent?
    3. Are you only losing pressure in the house, so that there is still pressure at the pressure tank but not in the house?
    The pressure at the pump is 30 and the holding tonk is 28. At first I thiught the bladder had a leak but it seems to be holding the pressure.
    When you turn on the shower the water pressure starts OK but then it loses pressure.
    The water level in the well is OK.
    I appreciate your help
    Regards
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #4

    Jul 17, 2009, 08:39 AM

    A little primer on well systems. When you use water, the pressure in the tank will begin to drop. After some short period, the pressure drops to a point where the switch turns on the pump. The pump is supposed to be able to produce more water than you are using, thus slowly increasing the pressure in the tank until it reaches the cut off point. There is usually a 20# or so difference between the cuton point and the cut off point, so that if it turns on at 30#, it will turn off at around 50#.

    If I was you I would do this. Turn on the shower, then go to the pump and watch the pressure gauge. You should be able to observe what I just described. The pressure will probably fall enough that the pump will be on once you get there. Watch the gauge and see if the pump can slowly increase the pressure until it reaches the cut off point. Get back with me once you have done that. If the pump can "keep up", then you can probably solve your problem fairly easily.
    mutoj's Avatar
    mutoj Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jul 18, 2009, 01:06 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by jlisenbe View Post
    A little primer on well systems. When you use water, the pressure in the tank will begin to drop. After some short period of time, the pressure drops to a point where the switch turns on the pump. The pump is supposed to be able to produce more water than you are using, thus slowly increasing the pressure in the tank until it reaches the cutoff point. There is usually a 20# or so difference between the cuton point and the cutoff point, so that if it turns on at 30#, it will turn off at around 50#.

    If I was you I would do this. Turn on the shower, then go to the pump and watch the pressure gauge. You should be able to observe what I just described. The pressure will probably fall enough that the pump will be on once you get there. Watch the gauge and see if the pump can slowly increase the pressure until it reaches the cutoff point. Get back with me once you have done that. If the pump can "keep up", then you can probably solve your problem fairly easily.
    I followed your suggestion and here is what happens
    \once the pump kicks in at 30 it get to 40 then it quits.
    I believe there is a setting to adjust the cut off but I am not sure which one it is
    Is it the setting or is the pump not capable of bringing up the pressure
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #6

    Jul 18, 2009, 01:15 PM

    How to adjust water pump pressure, pump cut-on pressure and pump cut-off pressure - private pump and well system do-it-yourself repairs

    The site above is excellent for adjusting pressure. You probably want to take your pressure up some. The 10# differential needs to be more like 20#. You will need to turn off the power, then remove the grey cover from your switch. You will see two nuts. The large center nut will adjust BOTH the cut in and cut off pressure. Turn it clockwise to increase, and counterclockwise to decrease. However, in your case you are more interested in just adusting the small nut for now. That will increase the cut out pressure only, thus increasing the 10# difference. Turn that nut clockwise two or three full turns. Restore power, then check your cutin/out pressures again. This takes trial and error. Once you move more towards a 20# differential, you might want to then use the large nut to move to a 40/60 setting. Piece of advice. You will find that turning the nuts a quarter or half turn won't get you much. Think FULL turns.

    Let us know how it goes.
    mutoj's Avatar
    mutoj Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jul 19, 2009, 09:55 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jlisenbe View Post
    How to adjust water pump pressure, pump cut-on pressure and pump cut-off pressure - private pump and well system do-it-yourself repairs

    The site above is excellent for adjusting pressure. You probably want to take your pressure up some. The 10# differential needs to be more like 20#. You will need to turn off the power, then remove the grey cover from your switch. You will see two nuts. The large center nut will adjust BOTH the cutin and cutoff pressure. Turn it clockwise to increase, and counterclockwise to decrease. However, in your case you are more interested in just adusting the small nut for now. That will increase the cutout pressure only, thus increasing the 10# difference. Turn that nut clockwise two or three full turns. Restore power, then check your cutin/out pressures again. This takes trial and error. Once you move more towards a 20# differential, you might want to then use the large nut to move to a 40/60 setting. Piece of advice. You will find that turning the nuts a quarter or half turn won't get you much. Think FULL turns.

    Let us know how it goes.
    The site ou mentioned is a good resource. I did try to adjust the settings on my switch but I noticed on the switch is says cut in at 20# and cut out at 40#
    Does this means 40 is the max pressure I can get?
    Right know I cutting in at 30 and out at about 40
    Do I need a stronger pump?
    Thanks for you continued help :)
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #8

    Jul 19, 2009, 10:33 AM
    I did try to adjust the settings on my switch but I noticed on the switch is says cut in at 20# and cut out at 40#
    Does this means 40 is the max pressure I can get?
    No! That's the factory setting. You can adjust up from there if you wish.
    Jlisenbe gave you excellent instructions on setting the control box. Now I'll give it a shot.
    The larger nut in the pump pressure switch: Usually the larger nut in the pump pressure control switch adjusts the pump cut-on ("cut-in") AND pump cut-off pressures simultaneously. That means that whatever the gap is between the cut-on pressure and the cut-off pressure, that gap is maintained, but the entire operating range of the pump is raised or lowered. Turning the large nut clockwise RAISES BOTH the cut-on and cut-off pressures. So turning the large nut clockwise shifts the whole operating pressure range of the pump UP to HIGHER pressures.
    Conversely, turning the large nut counter-clockwise will lower the whole pump operating range. This is the simplest adjustment to make.
    The small nut in the pump pressure switch: this nut is used to narrow or widen the gap between the pump cut-on and pump cut-off pressures. Turning the small nut clockwise (tighter) will RAISE the CUT-OFF pressure, and vice versa, loosening or turning the nut counter-clockwise will lower the cut-off pressure. Watch out! If you loosen this nut too much you can set the cut-off pressure below the cut-on pressure and the pump will turn on and run forever (or until it burns up.)
    Which nut to turn in the pump pressure switch control, and which direction to turn it, are usually visible on a label inside the pressure switch cover.
    Goog luck, Tom
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #9

    Jul 19, 2009, 01:26 PM

    SB said it right. My only addition would be this. You should be able to turn on your shower, then go watch the pressure gauge and see the pump able to pump up to cut off pressure even with the shower on. In other words, with water being used, the pump should still be able to cut on at 30# and then slowly build up pressure to 40# to cutoff. If it can't, then you might have some concerns about pump capacity. Check that out and get back with us.

    And do as SB suggested. Shoot for 30/50. Be bold! Just be careful about turning off the power when you make adjustments. I normally work mine "live", but it did make for a shocking experience on one occasion and I wouldn't recommend it.
    mutoj's Avatar
    mutoj Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jul 20, 2009, 09:17 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jlisenbe View Post
    SB said it right. My only addition would be this. You should be able to turn on your shower, then go watch the pressure gauge and see the pump able to pump up to cutoff pressure even with the shower on. In other words, with water being used, the pump should still be able to cut on at 30# and then slowly build up pressure to 40# to cutoff. If it can't, then you might have some concerns about pump capacity. Check that out and get back with us.

    And do as SB suggested. Shoot for 30/50. Be bold! Just be careful about turning off the power when you make adjustments. I normally work mine "live", but it did make for a shocking experience on one occasion and I wouldn't recommend it.
    Thanks Guys
    I will try it tonight and give you an update

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